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samfisher27 Apr 2016 10:44Hello dear forum,
In about 6 weeks, we will begin the interior work on our newly built semi-detached house and want to do as much as possible ourselves.
The walls are plastered and ready for wallpapering, and the joints in the concrete ceilings have been filled and are also prepared for wallpapering. The drywall partitions and sloped ceilings consist of gypsum board panels, which have been finished ready for wallpapering as well.
How we want the result to look:
For the surface in almost all rooms, we are considering a fine textured roller plaster that can be applied with a roller. This is partly for aesthetic reasons and partly because of the positive effects on indoor air quality. In some rooms, wallpaper might also be sufficient.
What we have thought about so far:
Walls:
To prevent the surface from being ruined by unsightly settlement cracks, we want to completely prepare the walls with renovation fleece (renoviervlies). So, for the plastered walls, I plan to:
Ceilings:
We are quite uncertain here whether we should apply the stain-blocking primer and roller plaster directly to the concrete ceiling or first apply renovation fleece.
My wife thinks I should save myself the work of wallpapering the ceiling, but I’m concerned that the filled joints might still show through the roller plaster and that small air pockets in the concrete might become visible. Also, wallpaper with roller plaster can be removed easily after a few years, whereas removing roller plaster directly applied would require much effort.
I could also imagine having at least the ceilings wallpapered by a professional painter...
Gypsum board / Sloped ceilings:
Here too, I would apply renovation fleece and then roller plaster on top. Before that, I would prime the gypsum board with an appropriate primer to prevent the paper layer from tearing off when removing wallpaper.
Do the joints between the sloped ceiling and the masonry wall require special treatment? Should we use an acrylic sealant for the joints?
Stairwell:
The height of the open stairwell from the basement to the roof peak is about 12 meters (approximately 39 feet) across four floors. The staircase is made of steel and is anchored to the wall at several points.
We wonder whether one continuous strip of wallpaper should be applied from top to bottom over the full 12 meters, or if it should be divided by floor. For the stairwell, roller plaster will definitely be applied for durability.
At the same time, I am looking for a professional painter for the stairwell, since scaffolding will likely be needed in the attic to reach the approximately 4.20 meters (13.8 feet) high peak.
So, that was a lot of information. Here is a short summary of my open questions:
Thanks for your help and best regards,
samfisher
In about 6 weeks, we will begin the interior work on our newly built semi-detached house and want to do as much as possible ourselves.
The walls are plastered and ready for wallpapering, and the joints in the concrete ceilings have been filled and are also prepared for wallpapering. The drywall partitions and sloped ceilings consist of gypsum board panels, which have been finished ready for wallpapering as well.
How we want the result to look:
For the surface in almost all rooms, we are considering a fine textured roller plaster that can be applied with a roller. This is partly for aesthetic reasons and partly because of the positive effects on indoor air quality. In some rooms, wallpaper might also be sufficient.
What we have thought about so far:
Walls:
To prevent the surface from being ruined by unsightly settlement cracks, we want to completely prepare the walls with renovation fleece (renoviervlies). So, for the plastered walls, I plan to:
- Prime
- Apply renovation fleece
- Treat the wallpaper with a stain-blocking primer (according to a major roller plaster manufacturer, this is necessary)
- Apply roller plaster
Ceilings:
We are quite uncertain here whether we should apply the stain-blocking primer and roller plaster directly to the concrete ceiling or first apply renovation fleece.
My wife thinks I should save myself the work of wallpapering the ceiling, but I’m concerned that the filled joints might still show through the roller plaster and that small air pockets in the concrete might become visible. Also, wallpaper with roller plaster can be removed easily after a few years, whereas removing roller plaster directly applied would require much effort.
I could also imagine having at least the ceilings wallpapered by a professional painter...
Gypsum board / Sloped ceilings:
Here too, I would apply renovation fleece and then roller plaster on top. Before that, I would prime the gypsum board with an appropriate primer to prevent the paper layer from tearing off when removing wallpaper.
Do the joints between the sloped ceiling and the masonry wall require special treatment? Should we use an acrylic sealant for the joints?
Stairwell:
The height of the open stairwell from the basement to the roof peak is about 12 meters (approximately 39 feet) across four floors. The staircase is made of steel and is anchored to the wall at several points.
We wonder whether one continuous strip of wallpaper should be applied from top to bottom over the full 12 meters, or if it should be divided by floor. For the stairwell, roller plaster will definitely be applied for durability.
At the same time, I am looking for a professional painter for the stairwell, since scaffolding will likely be needed in the attic to reach the approximately 4.20 meters (13.8 feet) high peak.
So, that was a lot of information. Here is a short summary of my open questions:
- Should concrete ceilings be primed and roller plastered directly or should renovation fleece be applied first?
- Stairwell: one continuous strip from top to bottom or divided by floor?
- Joint between sloped ceiling and masonry wall: how should it be treated?
- Is my planned approach generally okay, or do you have any suggestions for improvement?
Thanks for your help and best regards,
samfisher
samfisher schrieb:
For the surface in almost all rooms, we imagined a fine textured roller plaster that can be applied with a paint roller. Partly for aesthetic reasons, and partly due to the positive effects on indoor air quality. ??? What effect??? There will be exactly zero effect.
samfisher schrieb:
Should concrete ceilings be primed and finished with roller plaster directly, or should renovation fleece wallpaper be applied first? Apply fleece first and then just paint. In my opinion, fine roller plaster won't look very good. If the ceiling is really smooth, painting alone (or applying roller plaster) is enough. There won’t be any settlement cracks.
samfisher schrieb:
Stairwell in one continuous band from top to bottom, or separate sections? It doesn’t matter, since you will be covering it with roller plaster anyway and won’t see the substrate. It can be even 10 separate pieces if that makes the work easier. Just be careful not to damage your stairs.
samfisher schrieb:
Joint between sloped roof and masonry wall You can use acrylic sealant, but it will most likely crack again.
Depending on how smooth the walls are, you can choose different types of fleece. Of course, it’s also a matter of price, since the heavier renovation fleece is more expensive.
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samfisher27 Apr 2016 11:17nordanney schrieb:
??? What impact ??? There will be exactly zero impact. From what I have heard/read so far: Compared to a dispersion paint, the wall breathes, absorbs moisture due to the mineral content, and releases it again. In my opinion, this is an important factor given the high residual moisture still present in the plaster.
However, I am open to being corrected.
nordanney schrieb:
Depending on how smooth the walls are, The walls are very smooth; the fleece is used solely to bridge cracks. Other owners have painted the plaster directly, but I have concerns about shrinkage cracks.
samfisher schrieb:
From what I have heard/read so far: Compared to a dispersion paint, the wall breathes, absorbs moisture because of the mineral content, and releases it again. In my opinion, this is an important issue given the high residual moisture still present in the plaster. However, I am open to being corrected. Normal plaster walls do not breathe; with clay plaster, it’s a different matter. However, you then apply a) fleece, b) primer/sealer, c) textured finish plaster, and d) paint onto the supposedly breathable wall. Even if the wall could “breathe,” you would immediately negate that effect. Nowadays, a house only “breathes” through a ventilation system or open windows; otherwise, it does not. Unfortunately, that is the reality.
samfisher schrieb:
The walls are very smooth, the fleece is used solely to bridge cracks. Other owners painted directly onto the plaster, but I have concerns about settlement cracks. In that case, a thin fleece layer should be sufficient.
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Bieber081527 Apr 2016 21:40Renovation fleece: As far as I understand, renovation fleece is not typically used for new construction. In this case, a painter’s fleece might be more appropriate. However, I cannot say what the spray plaster requires.
Breathable walls: In my opinion, this is all nonsense. Ideally, you have a controlled ventilation system that ensures consistently good air quality. If you don’t have one, your ventilation habits and especially the furnishings (plants, carpets, upholstered furniture like sofas, etc.) greatly influence the “dynamics” of air quality. I personally think it is exaggerated to claim that walls significantly buffer moisture. Surely others have calculated or experimentally investigated this, but that would require further research.
If you are worried that the new wall still contains a lot of moisture, there is only one solution: wait (or actively dry it before the final treatment of the wall).
Breathable walls: In my opinion, this is all nonsense. Ideally, you have a controlled ventilation system that ensures consistently good air quality. If you don’t have one, your ventilation habits and especially the furnishings (plants, carpets, upholstered furniture like sofas, etc.) greatly influence the “dynamics” of air quality. I personally think it is exaggerated to claim that walls significantly buffer moisture. Surely others have calculated or experimentally investigated this, but that would require further research.
If you are worried that the new wall still contains a lot of moisture, there is only one solution: wait (or actively dry it before the final treatment of the wall).
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samfisher11 May 2016 16:11Hello everyone, first of all, thanks for your input. After a lot of lengthy consideration, consulting with painters, and, of course, internet research, we have now agreed to wallpaper all the interior walls with Erfurt fleece wallpaper in the PRO version with a thickness of 0.75 cm (0.3 inches) and then paint them using Malerit E.L.F.
We plan to have the stairwell and probably the ceilings done professionally, while doing the rest ourselves.
This currently seems like the best way to design the house according to our preferences. I know wallpapering with fleece is a matter of personal taste, but it works for us.
Does anyone have experience with semi-professional airless sprayers? For the large wall and ceiling area of about 600-700 m² (6,460-7,535 sq ft), I was thinking of using something like a Wagner Project 117 to apply the white paint in order to save time and effort. In my research, I found both strong opponents and supporters of airless spraying.
How much time would you estimate it takes to apply one coat of Malerit E.L.F. on fleece wallpaper using a roller for the 600 m² (6,460 sq ft) area? I really can’t estimate that. Regarding airless equipment, I’ve read that up to 600 m² (6,460 sq ft) could be covered per day (excluding masking and cleaning).
Best regards,
Sam
We plan to have the stairwell and probably the ceilings done professionally, while doing the rest ourselves.
This currently seems like the best way to design the house according to our preferences. I know wallpapering with fleece is a matter of personal taste, but it works for us.
Does anyone have experience with semi-professional airless sprayers? For the large wall and ceiling area of about 600-700 m² (6,460-7,535 sq ft), I was thinking of using something like a Wagner Project 117 to apply the white paint in order to save time and effort. In my research, I found both strong opponents and supporters of airless spraying.
How much time would you estimate it takes to apply one coat of Malerit E.L.F. on fleece wallpaper using a roller for the 600 m² (6,460 sq ft) area? I really can’t estimate that. Regarding airless equipment, I’ve read that up to 600 m² (6,460 sq ft) could be covered per day (excluding masking and cleaning).
Best regards,
Sam
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