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baschdieh10 Oct 2017 14:25Hello dear forum,
we are nearly finished with our shell construction, and now our wooden windows are to be made and painted by the carpenter. Due to our building design (no roof overhang, flat roof, large floor-to-ceiling windows measuring 11m (36 feet) on the west side), the carpenter advised against oak wood with thick-layer glaze and instead recommends the somewhat more affordable meranti wood with an opaque paint finish.
We would still like to keep the wooden window appearance, so we are looking for a paint color that is as close as possible to a natural wood tone. Does anyone have any ideas or have faced a similar question? Thank you!
we are nearly finished with our shell construction, and now our wooden windows are to be made and painted by the carpenter. Due to our building design (no roof overhang, flat roof, large floor-to-ceiling windows measuring 11m (36 feet) on the west side), the carpenter advised against oak wood with thick-layer glaze and instead recommends the somewhat more affordable meranti wood with an opaque paint finish.
We would still like to keep the wooden window appearance, so we are looking for a paint color that is as close as possible to a natural wood tone. Does anyone have any ideas or have faced a similar question? Thank you!
baschdieh schrieb:
We would like to have the wooden windows in a wood finish, so we are looking for a color tone that comes as close as possible to a natural wood color. The main reason I would choose wooden windows is that you can actually see the wood. However, this, in my opinion, does not depend on the color tone alone; I have yet to encounter one that looks truly characteristic of wood. Instead, it depends on the wood grain showing through. Therefore, no color tone seems particularly suitable if it is very evenly pigmented. I would consider a more irregular—possibly even changing—and transparent finish to be more appropriate. I believe there is no „perfect“ wood color tone. No shade, like a specific brown for example, guarantees a distinctly „wood-like“ appearance for the windows.
If you have not yet made your final decision, take a look at the range offered by Pax AG—they are our preferred supplier for wood products. Windows nowadays are highly advanced products, so I would not go to a furniture maker for this (even if they also work in organ building). It requires not only skill but also very specific expertise.
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Use a marine-grade varnish oil. Example: Epifanes Hardwood Varnish Oil. About 30.00 euros per liter (1.06 quarts). Can be ordered at svb punkt de.
What is it? An oil that penetrates deeply into the wood and saturates it, but dries with a high-gloss finish like varnish.
How to apply it? As the name suggests, this is an oil based on turpentine. It dries slowly, but does not become glass-hard, allowing the wood to move without cracking. Thin it slightly and apply it to the wood until it no longer absorbs the oil. Apply wet on wet. Then wait a good 24 hours, and apply the finish coat undiluted. Possibly two coats. The result: extremely weather-resistant, mirror-like surface, a nice flame-like pattern in the wood, warm color. Epifanes is a top choice among wood varnishes. And not overpriced, as it is very economical.
Alternative: Applied similarly: Le Tonkinois, possibly a bit cheaper. Karsten
What is it? An oil that penetrates deeply into the wood and saturates it, but dries with a high-gloss finish like varnish.
How to apply it? As the name suggests, this is an oil based on turpentine. It dries slowly, but does not become glass-hard, allowing the wood to move without cracking. Thin it slightly and apply it to the wood until it no longer absorbs the oil. Apply wet on wet. Then wait a good 24 hours, and apply the finish coat undiluted. Possibly two coats. The result: extremely weather-resistant, mirror-like surface, a nice flame-like pattern in the wood, warm color. Epifanes is a top choice among wood varnishes. And not overpriced, as it is very economical.
Alternative: Applied similarly: Le Tonkinois, possibly a bit cheaper. Karsten
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baschdieh11 Oct 2017 21:30Hello!
Thank you very much for your feedback and the tip regarding the oil. I will discuss this with the carpenter and the architect.
Thank you very much for your feedback and the tip regarding the oil. I will discuss this with the carpenter and the architect.
A carpenter would probably still be familiar with this, but an architect, unless they have a background in boat building, probably has no idea.
By "still familiar," I mean that these types of paint products used to be common in construction, but because these paints and varnishes are slow-drying—usually requiring a recoat interval of around 24 hours or more, and only becoming dust-dry after several hours—and since time is money, they have been replaced in construction by widely used acrylic products. However, and this is no rumor!, acrylics are nowhere near as weather-resistant or UV-stable as these traditional turpentine-based products. They also don’t achieve the same level of gloss or penetrate the wood as deeply.
In boat and shipbuilding, though, these varnishes and oils have survived because acrylic products, for example on the superstructure of a fishing cutter in the Mediterranean Sea, are a total failure and are ruined by sun and salt within a few weeks, whereas the products I mentioned can last several years. Try it out. Karsten
By "still familiar," I mean that these types of paint products used to be common in construction, but because these paints and varnishes are slow-drying—usually requiring a recoat interval of around 24 hours or more, and only becoming dust-dry after several hours—and since time is money, they have been replaced in construction by widely used acrylic products. However, and this is no rumor!, acrylics are nowhere near as weather-resistant or UV-stable as these traditional turpentine-based products. They also don’t achieve the same level of gloss or penetrate the wood as deeply.
In boat and shipbuilding, though, these varnishes and oils have survived because acrylic products, for example on the superstructure of a fishing cutter in the Mediterranean Sea, are a total failure and are ruined by sun and salt within a few weeks, whereas the products I mentioned can last several years. Try it out. Karsten