ᐅ Interior doors – The general contractor usually includes CPL (continuous pressure laminate) interior doors as part of the scope.
Created on: 4 Mar 2018 17:15
A
AnNaHF79
Hello,
We are currently looking at possible interior doors. Basically, they should be relatively plain (white).
The general contractor includes CPL interior doors from Prüm. The core is a hollow chipboard structure, so not bad at all.
What has also been offered to us:
(1) Doors from Herholz in S-design. These doors would be flush-mounted with a stop, which we like very much, but (for now) they would not be fully flush with the wall (only the frame and door leaf would be flush). However, we were warned that every millimeter the door is misaligned would be noticeable and could quickly lead to dissatisfaction.
(2) Completely flush doors using a construction where a steel frame is installed and then painted; this adds about 1.5cm (0.6 inches) to the wall, which is then plastered flush by the plasterer. With this setup, the door leaf ends up truly flush with the frame and wall. It seems that no special on-site measures are required with this construction, unlike other flush door solutions.
Any opinions on these alternatives?
Does anyone have experience with option (1) and can share?
Is anyone familiar with solution (2) and the manufacturer offering it?
Can anyone estimate the additional cost for these alternatives?
Thanks.
Best regards
We are currently looking at possible interior doors. Basically, they should be relatively plain (white).
The general contractor includes CPL interior doors from Prüm. The core is a hollow chipboard structure, so not bad at all.
What has also been offered to us:
(1) Doors from Herholz in S-design. These doors would be flush-mounted with a stop, which we like very much, but (for now) they would not be fully flush with the wall (only the frame and door leaf would be flush). However, we were warned that every millimeter the door is misaligned would be noticeable and could quickly lead to dissatisfaction.
(2) Completely flush doors using a construction where a steel frame is installed and then painted; this adds about 1.5cm (0.6 inches) to the wall, which is then plastered flush by the plasterer. With this setup, the door leaf ends up truly flush with the frame and wall. It seems that no special on-site measures are required with this construction, unlike other flush door solutions.
Any opinions on these alternatives?
Does anyone have experience with option (1) and can share?
Is anyone familiar with solution (2) and the manufacturer offering it?
Can anyone estimate the additional cost for these alternatives?
Thanks.
Best regards
You will always have a gap at the bottom. I am not talking about deliberately shortened door panels.
The frame solution is better than additional overflow elements, but anyone concerned with the door’s appearance will not see it as an option. Especially if something needs to be flush.
The frame solution is better than additional overflow elements, but anyone concerned with the door’s appearance will not see it as an option. Especially if something needs to be flush.
Alex85 schrieb:
Make sure the mechanical ventilation system is properly designed. 20-30m2 (215-323 sq ft) can easily flow through the door gap without any special measures. I'm relaxed about that; in our case, doors are usually open, and if not, it's no big deal. A mechanical ventilation system is highly dynamic depending on the air exchange and flow behavior, so I’m not too concerned if there’s temporarily less airflow somewhere.
Cutting down the door leaf is a no-go for me (which you didn’t mean anyway), more likely the door frame option, but most likely nothing at all and just open or slightly ajar doors.
Depending on the air exchange rate, 20-30 m³/h (12-18 cfm) through a standard gap can get tight—for example, in a larger bedroom with two occupants and a high, intentional air exchange rate.
A small guest bathroom with 3 m² (32 sq ft) area and 2.6 m (8.5 ft) height, with full air exchange every 15 minutes (humidity, odors), already represents a significant volume. You’d really have to make sure it doesn’t cause draughts under the door (through the gap).
Similar topics