ᐅ Integrated unit Stiebel Eltron LWZ 504 with central supply air system
Created on: 19 Oct 2014 20:20
D
DJCOON
Hello dear forum members,
Through a variety of professional magazines I ordered for our new build in spring 2015, I came across the air-to-water heat pump LWZ 504 from Stibel Eltron. According to Stibel, this unit offers the following:
"The compact LWZ 504 provides all the comfort expected from an energy-efficient house. The system draws energy for pleasant indoor temperatures and hot water from the outside air. Modern ventilation management ensures that the heat stays inside the building. It recovers up to 90% of the heat from the exhaust air. This allows a comfortable, healthy atmosphere to be combined with high efficiency. The demand-controlled inverter technology also ensures high efficiency. It produces exactly the amount of heat currently needed. High performance values can be achieved even at low temperatures. Energy-saving operation is supported by the modern high-efficiency heating circulation pump and excellent insulation of the hot water storage tank. For those who want to be even more independent from rising energy costs, the LWZ 504 can be operated with self-generated photovoltaic electricity using the appropriate accessories (ISG + SEE). The large, intuitive matrix display ensures that the modern technology in the award-winning design is easy to operate."
Key Features
I understand that this great system naturally comes at a price, but I would like to ask the experts among you—air-to-water heat pump owners as well as heating engineers—for advice or experience with such units. Ideally, it would be great if someone already has this exact pump installed in their basement :-)
Thank you in advance for your responses.
Best regards,
Martin
Through a variety of professional magazines I ordered for our new build in spring 2015, I came across the air-to-water heat pump LWZ 504 from Stibel Eltron. According to Stibel, this unit offers the following:
"The compact LWZ 504 provides all the comfort expected from an energy-efficient house. The system draws energy for pleasant indoor temperatures and hot water from the outside air. Modern ventilation management ensures that the heat stays inside the building. It recovers up to 90% of the heat from the exhaust air. This allows a comfortable, healthy atmosphere to be combined with high efficiency. The demand-controlled inverter technology also ensures high efficiency. It produces exactly the amount of heat currently needed. High performance values can be achieved even at low temperatures. Energy-saving operation is supported by the modern high-efficiency heating circulation pump and excellent insulation of the hot water storage tank. For those who want to be even more independent from rising energy costs, the LWZ 504 can be operated with self-generated photovoltaic electricity using the appropriate accessories (ISG + SEE). The large, intuitive matrix display ensures that the modern technology in the award-winning design is easy to operate."
Key Features
- Excellent suitability for new buildings
- Energy-saving inverter technology
- Ventilation with up to 90% heat recovery
- High domestic hot water comfort with well-insulated 235-liter (62 gallon) storage tank
- Compatible with solar systems
- Stable, sound-optimized housing construction
- Built-in high-efficiency heating circulation pump
I understand that this great system naturally comes at a price, but I would like to ask the experts among you—air-to-water heat pump owners as well as heating engineers—for advice or experience with such units. Ideally, it would be great if someone already has this exact pump installed in their basement :-)
Thank you in advance for your responses.
Best regards,
Martin
B
Bau2016inRGB8 Nov 2017 14:56Hello everyone,
we will soon be moving into our new home and also have an LWZ504 unit.
The heating technician will give us an introduction to the system next week, and I have already read through the manual.
We have a KfW40 house, two people living here, and an additional tiled stove that will be used regularly in the evenings and on weekends.
The system has been running for two weeks with the heating technician’s preset settings:
- Heating program: Heating circuit 1 set to 21 degrees Celsius (70°F) from Monday to Sunday, 24 hours a day.
- Hot water program: Target temperature 55 degrees Celsius (131°F) from Monday to Sunday, 24 hours a day.
- Ventilation program: Day ventilation on level 2, night ventilation on level 1.
I understand that heating behavior varies with each household and that efficiency depends on many factors.
Still, I have a question for the experts or owners of an LWZ 504:
Do you have any recommendations for optimal initial settings?
I think 21 degrees Celsius (70°F) for the heating program is fine, but can I further optimize this?
From Monday to Friday, normally no one is home between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. Would it make sense to set heating circuit 1 to operate only from 3 a.m. to 7 a.m. to save energy costs? On the other hand, outdoor temperatures are higher during the day, which should improve the heat pump’s efficiency. Or am I mistaken here?
Regarding the heating curve, I am completely unsure; the technician has already set recommended values. But maybe someone can share comparable recommended settings?
For the hot water program, 55 degrees Celsius (131°F) seems okay for starters. We are currently a two-person household and shower either in the morning or evening. Could I optimize the times here? Hot water production during daytime hours should be more efficient because of higher ambient temperatures, right? However, I would like to avoid using the electric heating element as much as possible.
In the warmer months from May to August, I will probably switch the system from automatic mode to hot water only, since heating is generally not needed then. In case of sudden temperature drops during this period, we can still use the tiled stove.
Thank you for your experiences, suggestions, tips, and tricks.
we will soon be moving into our new home and also have an LWZ504 unit.
The heating technician will give us an introduction to the system next week, and I have already read through the manual.
We have a KfW40 house, two people living here, and an additional tiled stove that will be used regularly in the evenings and on weekends.
The system has been running for two weeks with the heating technician’s preset settings:
- Heating program: Heating circuit 1 set to 21 degrees Celsius (70°F) from Monday to Sunday, 24 hours a day.
- Hot water program: Target temperature 55 degrees Celsius (131°F) from Monday to Sunday, 24 hours a day.
- Ventilation program: Day ventilation on level 2, night ventilation on level 1.
I understand that heating behavior varies with each household and that efficiency depends on many factors.
Still, I have a question for the experts or owners of an LWZ 504:
Do you have any recommendations for optimal initial settings?
I think 21 degrees Celsius (70°F) for the heating program is fine, but can I further optimize this?
From Monday to Friday, normally no one is home between 8 a.m. and 5 p.m. Would it make sense to set heating circuit 1 to operate only from 3 a.m. to 7 a.m. to save energy costs? On the other hand, outdoor temperatures are higher during the day, which should improve the heat pump’s efficiency. Or am I mistaken here?
Regarding the heating curve, I am completely unsure; the technician has already set recommended values. But maybe someone can share comparable recommended settings?
For the hot water program, 55 degrees Celsius (131°F) seems okay for starters. We are currently a two-person household and shower either in the morning or evening. Could I optimize the times here? Hot water production during daytime hours should be more efficient because of higher ambient temperatures, right? However, I would like to avoid using the electric heating element as much as possible.
In the warmer months from May to August, I will probably switch the system from automatic mode to hot water only, since heating is generally not needed then. In case of sudden temperature drops during this period, we can still use the tiled stove.
Thank you for your experiences, suggestions, tips, and tricks.
The domestic hot water temperature is quite high; we have it set to 44 degrees Celsius (111°F) with a hysteresis of 2, which is more than sufficient and should be significantly more cost-effective.
I adjusted the heating curve using the base point and slope settings, as described in the manual.
Our heating system is running continuously, so as far as I know, lowering the temperature doesn’t really make sense.
In your case, I would wait for the appointment with the technician. Strangely, not directly with SE? Then you can gradually adjust the settings downward. I was able to significantly reduce both the base point and the slope.
I adjusted the heating curve using the base point and slope settings, as described in the manual.
Our heating system is running continuously, so as far as I know, lowering the temperature doesn’t really make sense.
In your case, I would wait for the appointment with the technician. Strangely, not directly with SE? Then you can gradually adjust the settings downward. I was able to significantly reduce both the base point and the slope.
B
Bau2016inRGB8 Nov 2017 15:51Thank you, Ares, for your response.
By technician appointment, do you mean a follow-up visit with the maintenance person? The installer does not handle maintenance for us, and we still need to discuss the different maintenance plans with them in December. We will also receive the contact details during the handover appointment with our installer.
I need to take a closer look at the heating curve or go through it with the maintenance officer later.
By technician appointment, do you mean a follow-up visit with the maintenance person? The installer does not handle maintenance for us, and we still need to discuss the different maintenance plans with them in December. We will also receive the contact details during the handover appointment with our installer.
I need to take a closer look at the heating curve or go through it with the maintenance officer later.
For us, the heating technician installed the heat pump, and then a representative from Stiebel set up the system during an appointment, started the heating program, and one week before handing over the house, Stiebel also provided the user training for the system.
We have not yet decided on maintenance; the heating technician wants €500 per year, which I simply reject since Stiebel itself is even cheaper.
For you, only the base point and the slope matter when it comes to the heating curve. If it’s too warm during transitional periods, just lower the base point slightly. Then wait two days and see if that was enough reduction. You can find this information under troubleshooting in the manual.
We have not yet decided on maintenance; the heating technician wants €500 per year, which I simply reject since Stiebel itself is even cheaper.
For you, only the base point and the slope matter when it comes to the heating curve. If it’s too warm during transitional periods, just lower the base point slightly. Then wait two days and see if that was enough reduction. You can find this information under troubleshooting in the manual.
I am also interested in the LWZ504. A question for those who find the ventilation too loud:
- Were silencers installed that Stiebel offers as accessories?
- Where is the unit located?
- What is the construction type of the house?
In general: Are there comparable alternatives? Also with outdoor installation?
- Were silencers installed that Stiebel offers as accessories?
- Where is the unit located?
- What is the construction type of the house?
In general: Are there comparable alternatives? Also with outdoor installation?
B
Bau2016inRGB9 Nov 2017 09:59Hello Ares,
Thanks again for your reply.
Regarding the technician appointment, something seems to have gone wrong on my side, because my heating contractor told me I didn’t need to be present when the Stiebel technician sets up the heat pump and starts the screed drying program. Unfortunately, I relied on the heating contractor’s advice. During the screed program, several error codes appeared, which have since been resolved. As I said, the heating contractor does the handover; if I want a handover from the Stiebel technician, it costs extra. We will now have to bite the bullet, as my heating contractor also does not perform maintenance since he is not very familiar with the unit. Earlier, I was told that many of these systems had already been installed and only good experiences were reported so far. Now the damage is done, but a handover by a technician who knows the system well is absolutely necessary for me. So I will have to engage with the heating contractor again and look for a satisfactory solution.
@mertmk3
Since we haven’t moved in yet, I can’t say much about the noise level. At the moment, in daytime operation (level 2), I don’t find it too loud; how it will be at night in the bedroom remains to be seen.
Our unit is installed in the basement (without a silencer, but with a sound-optimized air duct), so the operating noise probably won’t bother us during everyday use.
Thanks again for your reply.
Regarding the technician appointment, something seems to have gone wrong on my side, because my heating contractor told me I didn’t need to be present when the Stiebel technician sets up the heat pump and starts the screed drying program. Unfortunately, I relied on the heating contractor’s advice. During the screed program, several error codes appeared, which have since been resolved. As I said, the heating contractor does the handover; if I want a handover from the Stiebel technician, it costs extra. We will now have to bite the bullet, as my heating contractor also does not perform maintenance since he is not very familiar with the unit. Earlier, I was told that many of these systems had already been installed and only good experiences were reported so far. Now the damage is done, but a handover by a technician who knows the system well is absolutely necessary for me. So I will have to engage with the heating contractor again and look for a satisfactory solution.
@mertmk3
Since we haven’t moved in yet, I can’t say much about the noise level. At the moment, in daytime operation (level 2), I don’t find it too loud; how it will be at night in the bedroom remains to be seen.
Our unit is installed in the basement (without a silencer, but with a sound-optimized air duct), so the operating noise probably won’t bother us during everyday use.
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