Hello,
I would appreciate some tips for the following task:
I can set up a workshop in an old former horse stable. The problem is the floor is extremely uneven. It seems to have been concreted in stages many decades ago. Everything looks dry, but there are height differences up to 11 cm (4.3 inches) within an area of 4.5 x 9 m (15 x 30 feet).
What would be the best option to create a floor suitable for a woodworking workshop with appropriate machinery?
At the moment, I am leaning towards a raised screed floor with a loose fill, if that works in an unheated space. Alternatively, a plank floor on joists with height adjustment. In both cases, I assume a moisture barrier should be applied over the old concrete (which type?). This doesn’t need to last for centuries but should not decay by next year either. Mice and similar pests should be expected.
The stable is masonry. Windows and doors are and will remain drafty. Next to the workshop is a large central heating system, so there is some waste heat, and it won’t freeze indoors. I do not want to install heating there—I can simply dress warmly if needed. Installation height is not an issue, as no doors open inward.
Thanks for any suggestions!
CH
I would appreciate some tips for the following task:
I can set up a workshop in an old former horse stable. The problem is the floor is extremely uneven. It seems to have been concreted in stages many decades ago. Everything looks dry, but there are height differences up to 11 cm (4.3 inches) within an area of 4.5 x 9 m (15 x 30 feet).
What would be the best option to create a floor suitable for a woodworking workshop with appropriate machinery?
At the moment, I am leaning towards a raised screed floor with a loose fill, if that works in an unheated space. Alternatively, a plank floor on joists with height adjustment. In both cases, I assume a moisture barrier should be applied over the old concrete (which type?). This doesn’t need to last for centuries but should not decay by next year either. Mice and similar pests should be expected.
The stable is masonry. Windows and doors are and will remain drafty. Next to the workshop is a large central heating system, so there is some waste heat, and it won’t freeze indoors. I do not want to install heating there—I can simply dress warmly if needed. Installation height is not an issue, as no doors open inward.
Thanks for any suggestions!
CH
Hello, thanks for your input. Photos are difficult right now because I’m not on site.
I have made mortar bags several times before; it’s quite laborious, especially in winter.
Do you have any recommendations for the best cross-sections for battens or floorboards, and what spacing or spans would be suitable? Equipment up to a maximum of 120 kg (265 lbs) will be installed.
Thank you!
I have made mortar bags several times before; it’s quite laborious, especially in winter.
Do you have any recommendations for the best cross-sections for battens or floorboards, and what spacing or spans would be suitable? Equipment up to a maximum of 120 kg (265 lbs) will be installed.
Thank you!
johodoc schrieb:
Do you have any recommendations on the best cross-sections for battens or floorboards and suitable spacing or spans? The equipment will weigh up to a maximum of 120 kg.Support beams of 60 mm x 60 mm (2.4 inches x 2.4 inches) are suitable, with a maximum spacing of 45-50 cm (18-20 inches). The thickness of the floorboards (as the wearing surface) should be at least 22 mm (0.87 inches).S
Singelküche28 Nov 2024 18:34johodoc schrieb:
I've made mortar bags quite a few times; it's really pretty tedious but it does build muscleUsing mortar bags is better, especially since you've done it before.
There is no adjustment range up to 11cm (4.3 inches), so you will need different sizes.