Hello,
I would appreciate some tips for the following task:
I can set up a workshop in an old former horse stable. The problem is the floor is extremely uneven. It seems to have been concreted in stages many decades ago. Everything looks dry, but there are height differences up to 11 cm (4.3 inches) within an area of 4.5 x 9 m (15 x 30 feet).
What would be the best option to create a floor suitable for a woodworking workshop with appropriate machinery?
At the moment, I am leaning towards a raised screed floor with a loose fill, if that works in an unheated space. Alternatively, a plank floor on joists with height adjustment. In both cases, I assume a moisture barrier should be applied over the old concrete (which type?). This doesn’t need to last for centuries but should not decay by next year either. Mice and similar pests should be expected.
The stable is masonry. Windows and doors are and will remain drafty. Next to the workshop is a large central heating system, so there is some waste heat, and it won’t freeze indoors. I do not want to install heating there—I can simply dress warmly if needed. Installation height is not an issue, as no doors open inward.
Thanks for any suggestions!
CH
I would appreciate some tips for the following task:
I can set up a workshop in an old former horse stable. The problem is the floor is extremely uneven. It seems to have been concreted in stages many decades ago. Everything looks dry, but there are height differences up to 11 cm (4.3 inches) within an area of 4.5 x 9 m (15 x 30 feet).
What would be the best option to create a floor suitable for a woodworking workshop with appropriate machinery?
At the moment, I am leaning towards a raised screed floor with a loose fill, if that works in an unheated space. Alternatively, a plank floor on joists with height adjustment. In both cases, I assume a moisture barrier should be applied over the old concrete (which type?). This doesn’t need to last for centuries but should not decay by next year either. Mice and similar pests should be expected.
The stable is masonry. Windows and doors are and will remain drafty. Next to the workshop is a large central heating system, so there is some waste heat, and it won’t freeze indoors. I do not want to install heating there—I can simply dress warmly if needed. Installation height is not an issue, as no doors open inward.
Thanks for any suggestions!
CH
I would keep it simple and sturdy.
On an old floor, lay down a foil or roofing felt (tar paper) or something similar, then the joists, and on top of that, 22mm (7/8 inch) OSB or thicker floorboards. Since the area is almost 50 square meters (540 square feet), I’d rather invest in a good tool than make the floor too expensive. OSB can also be painted or stained if desired. I wouldn’t put anything between the joists—not even loose fill or similar—also for cost reasons and because I don’t see what benefit it would have there.
For heating inside, I’d use a radiant heater or something that can be applied selectively and locally (above the workbench, for example); anything else would be a waste of money.
You can still finish the floor nicely later, according to your taste and mood. I might even choose floorboards or OSB without tongue and groove, so I can easily lift or replace them if needed (due to mice or other critters).
On an old floor, lay down a foil or roofing felt (tar paper) or something similar, then the joists, and on top of that, 22mm (7/8 inch) OSB or thicker floorboards. Since the area is almost 50 square meters (540 square feet), I’d rather invest in a good tool than make the floor too expensive. OSB can also be painted or stained if desired. I wouldn’t put anything between the joists—not even loose fill or similar—also for cost reasons and because I don’t see what benefit it would have there.
For heating inside, I’d use a radiant heater or something that can be applied selectively and locally (above the workbench, for example); anything else would be a waste of money.
You can still finish the floor nicely later, according to your taste and mood. I might even choose floorboards or OSB without tongue and groove, so I can easily lift or replace them if needed (due to mice or other critters).
....thanks for the reply, that is probably the easiest way to implement. I would prefer to use floorboards rather than OSB. What would you recommend as a leveling support for the beams to keep the membrane intact? With 10cm (4 inches) deep hollows, it would otherwise be quite unstable, wouldn't it?
Maybe you could upload a picture so people can better visualize it; at least that's the case for me.
Without seeing it clearly, I could imagine using small sandbags or sand-filled bags. Someone once used that on our terrace instead of expensive pedestals. For this purpose, it might be sufficient, and as mentioned, you could always remove some of it if needed. Depending on the ground, I could also imagine something like a gravel bed for leveling, similar to outdoor applications since this is taking place in a rustic barn and moisture or similar issues might occasionally occur.
Without seeing it clearly, I could imagine using small sandbags or sand-filled bags. Someone once used that on our terrace instead of expensive pedestals. For this purpose, it might be sufficient, and as mentioned, you could always remove some of it if needed. Depending on the ground, I could also imagine something like a gravel bed for leveling, similar to outdoor applications since this is taking place in a rustic barn and moisture or similar issues might occasionally occur.
Hello questioner.
There is little to add to the answer from "Auraki11."
I would definitely use a thicker PE foil (0.15mm (0.006 inches)) as a vapor retarder underneath, overlapping the sheet edges by 30cm (12 inches) and securing them with adhesive tape.
For the joist support, due to the significant unevenness of the subfloor, I would use 3-liter (0.8 gallon) freezer bags filled with a sand-cement-water mixture.
After mixing the two bags well by hand and securing them with a rubber band to prevent unintended leakage, the first joist is set into the still plastic mass and leveled relative to the adjacent joist in two directions: lengthwise and across.
This is how it works.
You can fill the joist spaces with sand, but I advise against it.
Sand retains moisture, no matter where it comes from. And if you don’t use kiln-dried sand, the sand already contains moisture at the time of delivery.
This is not good for the wooden structure. It’s better to use slag or an insulating material leftover from a construction site (basically a “burial” of insulation surplus :-)) Although it is not absolutely necessary to clarify this!
Good luck: KlaRa
There is little to add to the answer from "Auraki11."
I would definitely use a thicker PE foil (0.15mm (0.006 inches)) as a vapor retarder underneath, overlapping the sheet edges by 30cm (12 inches) and securing them with adhesive tape.
For the joist support, due to the significant unevenness of the subfloor, I would use 3-liter (0.8 gallon) freezer bags filled with a sand-cement-water mixture.
After mixing the two bags well by hand and securing them with a rubber band to prevent unintended leakage, the first joist is set into the still plastic mass and leveled relative to the adjacent joist in two directions: lengthwise and across.
This is how it works.
You can fill the joist spaces with sand, but I advise against it.
Sand retains moisture, no matter where it comes from. And if you don’t use kiln-dried sand, the sand already contains moisture at the time of delivery.
This is not good for the wooden structure. It’s better to use slag or an insulating material leftover from a construction site (basically a “burial” of insulation surplus :-)) Although it is not absolutely necessary to clarify this!
Good luck: KlaRa
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