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Hausmeister7220 Sep 2013 20:52Hello forum,
We have a house built in 1955.
The roof is still from 1955 but does not necessarily need to be replaced.
There is an attic under the roof, which is dry and used as storage space, including for clothing. The roof is insulated with insulation between the rafters. There are only two small roof windows, about the size of DIN A3 (11.7 x 16.5 inches).
- In winter, I plan to stuff insulation wool into the roof window shafts for better insulation.
- The attic floor is partially covered with rigid foam boards to add insulation between the attic and the living space below. Does it make sense to fully insulate the attic floor? The effort would be about 300 euros and one day of work (mainly clearing out the space).
- We have an attic hatch with a pull-down ladder that has gaps about 5 mm (0.2 inches) wide. Does it make sense to seal such gaps? How can I do that?
Thanks in advance for your help!
We have a house built in 1955.
The roof is still from 1955 but does not necessarily need to be replaced.
There is an attic under the roof, which is dry and used as storage space, including for clothing. The roof is insulated with insulation between the rafters. There are only two small roof windows, about the size of DIN A3 (11.7 x 16.5 inches).
- In winter, I plan to stuff insulation wool into the roof window shafts for better insulation.
- The attic floor is partially covered with rigid foam boards to add insulation between the attic and the living space below. Does it make sense to fully insulate the attic floor? The effort would be about 300 euros and one day of work (mainly clearing out the space).
- We have an attic hatch with a pull-down ladder that has gaps about 5 mm (0.2 inches) wide. Does it make sense to seal such gaps? How can I do that?
Thanks in advance for your help!
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AallRounder20 Sep 2013 21:32Hello Hausmeister72,
Basically, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling between floors if the attic is unheated. Otherwise, the heat loss would be significant.
In my opinion, vapor-impermeable insulation materials like Styrofoam and Styrodur have no place in ceiling insulation between floors: moisture rising from the living spaces below condenses on the underside of these boards and cannot escape from this construction. Over time, this will cause the wooden beams to rot. The solution is a continuous vapor barrier installed on the warm side—that is, the ceiling of the living spaces—and a vapor-permeable insulation of the ceiling between floors.
It is also possible, with sufficiently thick insulation (for example, mineral perlite or clay-based materials), to omit the vapor barrier. In this case, the moisture can escape freely upwards through the unheated attic. However, a precise dew point calculation should be carried out beforehand. A few walking boards are enough if you do not want to cover everything with floorboards or thick tongue-and-groove panels.
Hausmeister72 schrieb:
Hello forum,
- The attic floor is already partially covered with Styrodur boards to add insulation between the attic and the living spaces below. Does it make sense to fully insulate the attic floor?
Basically, it is necessary to insulate the ceiling between floors if the attic is unheated. Otherwise, the heat loss would be significant.
In my opinion, vapor-impermeable insulation materials like Styrofoam and Styrodur have no place in ceiling insulation between floors: moisture rising from the living spaces below condenses on the underside of these boards and cannot escape from this construction. Over time, this will cause the wooden beams to rot. The solution is a continuous vapor barrier installed on the warm side—that is, the ceiling of the living spaces—and a vapor-permeable insulation of the ceiling between floors.
It is also possible, with sufficiently thick insulation (for example, mineral perlite or clay-based materials), to omit the vapor barrier. In this case, the moisture can escape freely upwards through the unheated attic. However, a precise dew point calculation should be carried out beforehand. A few walking boards are enough if you do not want to cover everything with floorboards or thick tongue-and-groove panels.
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