ᐅ Drywall Construction for Storage or Hobby Room – Tips

Created on: 17 Dec 2024 09:24
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Prager91
Hello everyone,

Two years ago, we moved into our house, including the basement.

In the basement, we created a large room, which at the moment and in the future is divided into:

One side hobby room
One side storage/pantry room

I would like to visually separate both areas. I want to do this properly and am thinking of using drywall with gypsum board panels.

Now to my questions, or rather, I would like to get some advice here:

1. Does drywall make the most sense in terms of price/performance here?
2. I would ideally like to install panels on both sides, but without insulation – does that make sense? It’s meant purely as a visual separation.
3. Regarding the door opening: Obviously, a passage is needed, but it does not have to be a hinged door – maybe a sliding option could work, or possibly just leaving it open, since the doorway area is a nice feature visually and it could also be practical to keep the passage permanently open. Of course, planning a door makes sense for the future, but maybe someone has another idea?
4. I am open to suggestions or tips to keep everything as cost-effective as possible.

Thank you very much!!
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Harakiri
7 Jan 2025 11:27
Prager91 schrieb:

Do you still need any special profiles for the floor/ceiling to wall connection?

In the end, I added the 50mm UW profiles, the 50mm CW profiles, the 50mm lintel profile, as well as a sealing tape and the appropriate screws to my cart. With these, I can build the matching rectangular frame all around, right?

UW profiles are used as the frame (floor, ceiling), CW profiles are the stud profiles. You don’t need anything else, although I would still recommend UA profiles for the door opening — but that’s optional.

For the wall connection, a separating strip is usually glued next to the profile if you want to do it neatly.
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Prager91
7 Jan 2025 11:29
Harakiri schrieb:

Use UW profiles for the frame (floor, walls, and ceiling), and CW profiles as studs. That’s all you need, although I would still recommend UA profiles for the door opening – but it’s not mandatory.

For the wall connection, normally a separating strip is glued next to the profile if you want to make it really neat.

Exactly – the UA profile is the lintel profile for the door opening that I had chosen.

Now I know the first steps and will gradually start working on the frame construction over the next few days/weeks to see how I progress 🙂

Thanks to everyone for the help!
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Harakiri
7 Jan 2025 11:33
Prager91 schrieb:

Exactly – the UA-Profi is the lintel profile I chose.

Now I know the first steps and will gradually start working on the frame construction over the next days/weeks to see how I progress 🙂

Thanks for all your help!

Here you need to be careful: lintel profiles are pre-sized and pre-punched U-profiles that are used exclusively as lintels (the upper horizontal support of the wall opening).

The UA profiles are reinforced stud profiles that run the full height on the left and right sides of the door opening. You can also use CW profiles for this.
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Prager91
7 Jan 2025 11:35
Harakiri schrieb:

You need to be careful here: door lintel profiles are pre-sized and pre-punched U-profiles that are really only intended to be used as lintels (the upper closing part of the wall opening).

The UA-profiles are reinforced stud profiles that form the full height of the door opening on the left and right sides. However, you can also use CW profiles for this.

Ah okay – I would have used standard CW profiles and then taken a door lintel profile for the lintel—the crossbeam. You would also need to cut it with an angle grinder since it can’t be cut with tin snips.
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Prager91
7 Jan 2025 11:49
Last question:

Which anchors and screws are suitable for fastening profiles to the floor/ceiling/wall?

Concrete ceiling, concrete slab without underfloor heating, one wall made of concrete and one wall made of brick
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Zubi123
7 Jan 2025 13:39
6/35 dowel pins should normally be sufficient