Hello,
The plumbing and electrical contractors are now eager to finalize things before the heating installer is ready. Therefore, I need to clarify the following questions as soon as possible:
1. Location of the ground source heat pump: There are generally two options in my basement.
A: Room facing the garden. This would mean a shorter connection to the ground loop in the garden. However, it is on the opposite side of the house from the water supply and the kitchen & bathrooms above.
B: Room facing the street. The heating system would then be directly next to the water supply and drainage, as well as directly below the kitchen and bathrooms (short pipe runs). The risers are located nearby in this room. The connection to the ground loop would be longer. Either it would run out sideways and then to the back garden, or run through the basement towards the back and then through the exterior wall into the garden.
I had planned for location B because it seemed much better to me due to the shorter pipe runs. However, I’m puzzled because two heating installers who were on site did not clearly recommend this position. It was more like... yes, you could do it this way... and... both options would somehow work...
What do you think? Is B clearly better than A?
2. Preparation of electrical connection
I want to install a Nibe S1255-PC. I get the feeling the heating installer will only look at my system in detail once they have a confirmed delivery date. So far, I have no exact specifications, just information from the internet.
For the electrical supply, I have currently planned:
1x 5x2.5mm² NYM cable (compressor)
1x 5x1.5mm² NYM cable (heating element)
1x 4x0.8mm ??? (outdoor sensor)
1x LAN Cat7 (network)
Have I forgotten anything? Does the circulation pump need a separate 230V supply cable? I don’t think so, right?
How is the handover point normally designed? Simply open cable ends with sufficient length, or some kind of terminal strip or junction box?
3. Preparation of heating connection
I think my heating installer mentioned a “connection panel” here, could that be correct? Unfortunately, I didn’t catch the technical term and can’t find anything suitable under that name. What is it usually called?
Because of passive cooling, there should also be something special involved. What would that be?
Is this usually installed by the plumber?
I would appreciate some helpful answers.
Best regards,
Julian
The plumbing and electrical contractors are now eager to finalize things before the heating installer is ready. Therefore, I need to clarify the following questions as soon as possible:
1. Location of the ground source heat pump: There are generally two options in my basement.
A: Room facing the garden. This would mean a shorter connection to the ground loop in the garden. However, it is on the opposite side of the house from the water supply and the kitchen & bathrooms above.
B: Room facing the street. The heating system would then be directly next to the water supply and drainage, as well as directly below the kitchen and bathrooms (short pipe runs). The risers are located nearby in this room. The connection to the ground loop would be longer. Either it would run out sideways and then to the back garden, or run through the basement towards the back and then through the exterior wall into the garden.
I had planned for location B because it seemed much better to me due to the shorter pipe runs. However, I’m puzzled because two heating installers who were on site did not clearly recommend this position. It was more like... yes, you could do it this way... and... both options would somehow work...
What do you think? Is B clearly better than A?
2. Preparation of electrical connection
I want to install a Nibe S1255-PC. I get the feeling the heating installer will only look at my system in detail once they have a confirmed delivery date. So far, I have no exact specifications, just information from the internet.
For the electrical supply, I have currently planned:
1x 5x2.5mm² NYM cable (compressor)
1x 5x1.5mm² NYM cable (heating element)
1x 4x0.8mm ??? (outdoor sensor)
1x LAN Cat7 (network)
Have I forgotten anything? Does the circulation pump need a separate 230V supply cable? I don’t think so, right?
How is the handover point normally designed? Simply open cable ends with sufficient length, or some kind of terminal strip or junction box?
3. Preparation of heating connection
I think my heating installer mentioned a “connection panel” here, could that be correct? Unfortunately, I didn’t catch the technical term and can’t find anything suitable under that name. What is it usually called?
Because of passive cooling, there should also be something special involved. What would that be?
Is this usually installed by the plumber?
I would appreciate some helpful answers.
Best regards,
Julian
Harakiri schrieb:
You can supply the electric cartridge separately, but in my opinion, it only makes sense if you want or have to install a utility company lockout, and your power supplier insists on cutting off the power supply for that. It’s much smarter to handle everything via switching contacts (hence the recommendation to provide either signal cables or CAT cables additionally). You can lay 5x1.5 mm2 (5x1.5 mm²) for control voltage anyway, as it can be installed cost-effectively together with the 5x4 mm2 (5x4 mm²) cable, and that way you keep all options open.Yes, I will probably go with 4 mm2 (11 AWG) and install the 5x1.5 mm2 (5x1.5 mm²) cable as well. That should be a minor additional effort.
Harakiri schrieb:
I meant either option A or B, but running directly through the exterior wall. If option B is not significantly more expensive or problematic due to earthworks and later restrictions on planting, etc., then you can certainly choose B. However, this should be discussed in advance with your drilling company, because there are some details that might still be important, such as bending radii at changes of direction and, usually desired, a slight slope towards the house entry point so that the pipe can be vented there.Option B would mean about 7 meters (23 feet) more pipe feed. It would then run along the house side into the garden. Part of it will be paved later and used as the parking space. I would really like to discuss this again with the heating installer. Let's see if he’s willing to do that. Somehow I get the impression that my heating system is still too far off for him to want to deal with the details right now.
Harakiri schrieb:
I don’t know what is meant — hot water and heating supply/return are connected directly to the heat pump (of course with appropriate shut-off valves, filters, pressure gauges, expansion vessel, etc.). I don’t know what would be different with passive cooling (I don’t have it myself, so…). Maybe sensors or dew point monitoring? Depending on the concept, you could place those there, but in my opinion, it makes more sense to install these in the rooms themselves (or if you want to be very precise, within the floor construction).I had understood that, so the pipes don’t just end somewhere on the wall, you have something like a heating circuit distributor. A kind of connection panel where all the respective pipes converge. I will try to ask again for more details.
Thanks a lot for your helpful comments.
JaiBee07 schrieb:
Option B would mean about 7 m (23 feet) more pipe length is required. It would then run along the house side into the garden. Part of this area will be paved later and serves as the parking space for a car. I would really like to discuss this again with the heating installer. Let's see if he is willing to do so. Somehow I get the feeling that my heating system is still so far on his radar that he doesn’t want to deal with the details just yet.How are the trades divided in your case? Does the heating company also handle the drilling (which is rather rare)? If not, usually the drilling company is responsible for everything up to the handover point at the heat pump (brine supply and return with shut-off valve, usually right next to the heat pump, including wall penetrations, sealing, etc.). If that’s the case for you, I would definitely start by discussing it with them and make sure to clarify the additional costs for the extra pipe length. Some companies already have their own ideas about this...
JaiBee07 schrieb:
I understood that to avoid the pipes ending somewhere along the wall, there is something like a heating circuit distributor. A kind of connection panel where all the relevant pipes come together. I’ll try to inquire again here to get more details.That depends on how your branch distribution is planned—do you even have a plan for that? If you have a heating load calculation, it is often accompanied by a hydraulic diagram showing how the pipes are planned and sized. For normal house sizes, I usually know that only one main pipe runs "upwards," from which the floor heating manifolds for each floor are split off.
If there is floor heating planned in the basement as well, or if structural conditions make multiple loops for the floors necessary, then a manifold at the basement level is needed. It must be insulated just as well as the pipes themselves, and since you also have cooling, the insulation should be diffusion-tight.
W
WilderSueden20 Oct 2023 10:07Harakiri schrieb:
If not, it is usually the case that the drilling company is responsible for everything up to the handover point of the heat pump (brine supply and return with shut-off valve, usually located right next to the heat pump, including wall penetrations, sealing, etc.) – if this applies to you as well, I would definitely start by discussing it with them and make sure to clarify any additional costs for the distance.Civil engineering work is usually charged separately and needs to be coordinated with the drilling company.Similar topics