Hello,
We are planning to start building our house (solid construction) later this year. However, the earliest we expect to begin is late October or early November. We would like to complete the shell of the building and then continue in spring. Our question now is whether it makes sense to just finish the shell or if it would be better to also install the roof to prevent rain and snow from getting inside the shell over the winter.
In that case, what would happen to the roof timber? It wouldn’t get wet from rain or snow, but since the building will still be open (windows, doors), it would be exposed to humidity all winter.
Do you have any ideas or advice?
Thank you in advance.
Best regards,
Tatze
We are planning to start building our house (solid construction) later this year. However, the earliest we expect to begin is late October or early November. We would like to complete the shell of the building and then continue in spring. Our question now is whether it makes sense to just finish the shell or if it would be better to also install the roof to prevent rain and snow from getting inside the shell over the winter.
In that case, what would happen to the roof timber? It wouldn’t get wet from rain or snow, but since the building will still be open (windows, doors), it would be exposed to humidity all winter.
Do you have any ideas or advice?
Thank you in advance.
Best regards,
Tatze
B
Bauexperte26 Sep 2011 10:42Hello,
I find that hard to believe; exemption procedures usually take about 4 weeks. If it really was that fast for him, there was probably some special influence involved...
Assuming you do receive the building permit / planning permission at the beginning of October, it depends on the schedule of your contractor; they will also need some lead time.
Once the shell of the building is closed in, the weather no longer matters. However, when pushing for an early start, keep in mind that you will probably live in this house for the rest of your life—does it really matter if it takes a few weeks longer or shorter?
Kind regards
Kati27 schrieb:
Right now, we are trying to submit the building permit / planning permission application by October. We discussed it with our neighbor. He said his application was approved within 3 days.
I find that hard to believe; exemption procedures usually take about 4 weeks. If it really was that fast for him, there was probably some special influence involved...
Kati27 schrieb:
Could it then work to get the house “weatherproof” before frost? So that only the interior work needs to be done between January and spring. If the windows are installed, that wouldn’t be a problem anymore, right? Of course, I wouldn’t want to leave the foundation slab exposed over the frost period. Maybe it would really be better to start next year then.
Assuming you do receive the building permit / planning permission at the beginning of October, it depends on the schedule of your contractor; they will also need some lead time.
Once the shell of the building is closed in, the weather no longer matters. However, when pushing for an early start, keep in mind that you will probably live in this house for the rest of your life—does it really matter if it takes a few weeks longer or shorter?
Kind regards
Bauexperte schrieb:
Provided the weather conditions allow, the foundation slab can still be poured after the Christmas holidays. Then you have to wait out the frost period... which is not good for the foundation slab
Hello Bauexperte,
thank you very much for your reply.
Our schedule has shifted as well. We don’t need a building permit (only a building start notification must be submitted), but the surveying work on the plot is still ongoing. This means our plan to complete the shell construction this year is no longer feasible. However, we were considering at least finishing the foundation slab this year (we are building without a basement). The reason for this is that a couple of friends who built about 100 meters (330 feet) from our lot in this small new development two years ago originally planned to start construction right in spring, but had to wait many weeks before they could pour their foundation slab because there was a lot of water standing in the excavation area. We thought about avoiding this problem by completing the foundation slab before the end of the year.
Now, I read in your post that this is not good for the foundation slab. Could you explain why? It could possibly be covered with a tarp!
One more question: you mentioned that once the shell is enclosed, the weather no longer matters. Wasn’t it the case in the past that the shell was deliberately left open over the winter to dry out (because the air is drier in winter than in summer)? Why wouldn’t this be an issue today?
Thank you in advance!
Best regards
Tatze
B
Bauexperte20 Oct 2011 12:37Hello Tatze,
I found an easy-to-understand explanation online, which I will share here so I don’t have to start from scratch.
Concrete requires specific curing times to achieve freeze resistance because if it freezes during curing, it suffers permanent damage. Concrete is considered freeze-resistant once it reaches a compressive strength of 5 N/mm². Critical factors here are the cement type and the water/cement ratio.
At air temperatures between +5 and -3°C (41°F and 27°F), the concrete temperature during placement should not fall below +5°C (41°F). If the cement content is less than 240 kg/m³, the concrete temperature should not fall below 10°C (50°F). The same applies to cement with low heat of hydration. At air temperatures below -3°C (27°F), the concrete temperature at placement must be at least 10°C (50°F). It should then be kept at a minimum of 10°C (50°F) for at least 3 days.
The fresh concrete temperature should never exceed +30°C (86°F).
Concrete surfaces can be kept warm by covering them with insulating materials.
Specific guidelines must be followed during concrete production, concerning the temperature of the water, etc. In extreme cases (heat addition), it is important to ensure that the water necessary for curing is not lost from the concrete.
In other words: Frost damage is caused because concrete, mortar, and plaster do not generate enough heat during setting in cold conditions. Insufficient hardening leads to cracks and gaps where water can penetrate, which, upon freezing, can cause spalling. Therefore, concrete, mortar, and plaster work should be performed only when the temperature is above 5°C (41°F), even in winter.
This is less about the shell itself and more about when the interior finishing trades begin; ventilation is necessary in any case. Usually, these trades start only after the shell is closed because the risk of theft of tools and materials is greatly reduced.
Best regards
Tatze schrieb:
Now I am reading in your post that this is not good for the concrete slab. Can you explain why? You could perhaps cover it with a tarp!
I found an easy-to-understand explanation online, which I will share here so I don’t have to start from scratch.
Concrete requires specific curing times to achieve freeze resistance because if it freezes during curing, it suffers permanent damage. Concrete is considered freeze-resistant once it reaches a compressive strength of 5 N/mm². Critical factors here are the cement type and the water/cement ratio.
At air temperatures between +5 and -3°C (41°F and 27°F), the concrete temperature during placement should not fall below +5°C (41°F). If the cement content is less than 240 kg/m³, the concrete temperature should not fall below 10°C (50°F). The same applies to cement with low heat of hydration. At air temperatures below -3°C (27°F), the concrete temperature at placement must be at least 10°C (50°F). It should then be kept at a minimum of 10°C (50°F) for at least 3 days.
The fresh concrete temperature should never exceed +30°C (86°F).
Concrete surfaces can be kept warm by covering them with insulating materials.
Specific guidelines must be followed during concrete production, concerning the temperature of the water, etc. In extreme cases (heat addition), it is important to ensure that the water necessary for curing is not lost from the concrete.
In other words: Frost damage is caused because concrete, mortar, and plaster do not generate enough heat during setting in cold conditions. Insufficient hardening leads to cracks and gaps where water can penetrate, which, upon freezing, can cause spalling. Therefore, concrete, mortar, and plaster work should be performed only when the temperature is above 5°C (41°F), even in winter.
Tatze schrieb:
Oh, one more question. You write that once the shell of the building is closed in, the weather no longer matters. Isn’t it true that the shell was traditionally left deliberately open over winter to dry out (because winter air is drier than summer air)? Why would this be a problem today?
This is less about the shell itself and more about when the interior finishing trades begin; ventilation is necessary in any case. Usually, these trades start only after the shell is closed because the risk of theft of tools and materials is greatly reduced.
Best regards
I have a question for the building expert. This week, we started the preparatory work for the foundation slab, such as setting up the batter boards and formwork. That means the foundation slab work is scheduled to begin next week. The weather looks quite good here, with temperatures expected to reach up to 12 degrees Celsius (54°F) and it should stay dry next week. However, nights will be quite cold and temperatures could drop to around 0 degrees Celsius (32°F). I think the risk of frost at night is very high now.
How long does concrete usually need to cure before it can withstand frost? If it takes a few days, wouldn’t that be a problem for us anyway?
How long does concrete usually need to cure before it can withstand frost? If it takes a few days, wouldn’t that be a problem for us anyway?
B
Bauexperte21 Oct 2011 12:02Hello,
Correct, a concrete slab needs to cure. During the curing process, it must remain moist (which is why the current weather conditions are somewhat favorable, although unpredictable). Concrete only reaches its full strength after several weeks or months, which is why concrete ceilings are kept formwork-supported for a long time. Typically, wall masonry begins 3 to 4 days after pouring the slab.
It is crucial that there is no ground frost for a minimum of 4 days; if temperatures fall below freezing, masonry work must be postponed.
Kind regards
Orschel schrieb:
How long does concrete normally need to cure before it is protected from frost damage? If it takes a few days, wouldn’t that be a problem anyway?
Correct, a concrete slab needs to cure. During the curing process, it must remain moist (which is why the current weather conditions are somewhat favorable, although unpredictable). Concrete only reaches its full strength after several weeks or months, which is why concrete ceilings are kept formwork-supported for a long time. Typically, wall masonry begins 3 to 4 days after pouring the slab.
It is crucial that there is no ground frost for a minimum of 4 days; if temperatures fall below freezing, masonry work must be postponed.
Kind regards
H
Häuslebauer4021 Oct 2011 17:38Our concrete slab was poured today. I will diligently measure and record the concrete temperature regularly over the weekend.
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