Hi,
I’m still undecided about installing home automation in our planned new build.
My requirements are as follows:
- Control of roller shutters or blinds (possibly window contacts to detect open windows)
- Control of heating / air source heat pump or solar system
- Control of a video intercom system via a tablet
Of course, I have looked into KNX and the material costs alone would be around 6000€ (approximately 6,350 USD). As an alternative, Loxone is mentioned increasingly often, although the proprietary format is a bit off-putting.
My requirements could also be met with a manufacturer-specific system.
Do you have any recommendations for or against home automation (in my case)?
Best regards
Acd85
I’m still undecided about installing home automation in our planned new build.
My requirements are as follows:
- Control of roller shutters or blinds (possibly window contacts to detect open windows)
- Control of heating / air source heat pump or solar system
- Control of a video intercom system via a tablet
Of course, I have looked into KNX and the material costs alone would be around 6000€ (approximately 6,350 USD). As an alternative, Loxone is mentioned increasingly often, although the proprietary format is a bit off-putting.
My requirements could also be met with a manufacturer-specific system.
Do you have any recommendations for or against home automation (in my case)?
Best regards
Acd85
Wow! Thanks already to everyone for the really helpful answers!
That’s exactly the part I’m at right now with the book, working through the “Smart Home Pyramid.”
So, I’m still pretty much at the beginning.
I actually want to plan for presence detectors in every room at least, but because of our split-level architecture and the open-plan layout on the ground floor with kitchen and dining areas, I think that makes things more complicated.
Also, my wife wants to have a cat or two sooner or later.
So you really have to consider carefully where to position the presence detectors.
Thanks for the tip about the forum, but I’m already registered there anyway.
Regarding sensors, I’m still thinking about it, as I’m still considering what I want to automate now or later, so that will take a while.
I currently live in an apartment where four sockets in the living room are switchable together. I have my Philips Hue Living Colors connected to it and am very satisfied with the functionality. However, it would work perfectly fine without this switching function as well.
In a first draft room schedule, I came up with 31 light points and 33 sockets.
However, these are details we still need to carefully consider where it makes sense and where not — same with dimming.
@Tom1607
Thanks for all the info!
Regarding low-voltage lighting, I initially assumed that the transformers have to be placed within 2 m (6.5 ft) of the light point. With a concrete ceiling, that would mean suitable halogen connection boxes with transformer tunnels.
If the transformers can also be installed in the distribution cabinet, that would be easier, at least that’s how I imagine it.
Thanks! I’ll send you a PM right away!
I wonder why I need all those room thermostats anyway. With such a slow system like underfloor heating, that’s just a gimmick.
I work myself in a consulting office for building services engineering; therefore, I will probably do the planning including calculations myself.
Assuming a hydraulic balancing, the underfloor heating is usually set once and that’s it.
Still, just to be safe, I will run a cable to the distribution board—you never know.
b54 schrieb:
Hello Matte,
Since you still have some time, I think it will work. Planning is extremely important with a KNX installation. Since the wiring is the foundation for everything, you should definitely create a room schedule. Then think about the positions of switches, sockets, presence detectors, etc. Based on the room schedule, you can also make a rough budget estimate of what sensors/actuators you will need. There is also a very good forum for this. Just google KNX and User .
That’s exactly the part I’m at right now with the book, working through the “Smart Home Pyramid.”
So, I’m still pretty much at the beginning.
I actually want to plan for presence detectors in every room at least, but because of our split-level architecture and the open-plan layout on the ground floor with kitchen and dining areas, I think that makes things more complicated.
Also, my wife wants to have a cat or two sooner or later.
So you really have to consider carefully where to position the presence detectors.
Thanks for the tip about the forum, but I’m already registered there anyway.
b54 schrieb:
Depending on how many sensors you want to install, it might also make sense to consider 1-Wire. It’s a second bus system, but there are very inexpensive sensors available for it. There are lots of possibilities for visualization, and many of them are affordable or even free, very flexible, and well supported. I also hesitated a long time between Loxone and KNX, and due to the costs, I almost canceled the whole project. But now I’ve decided to go with a KNX system. I also bought the book, which I find pretty good. I would just caution against going overboard and wiring every single socket individually back to the distribution board. You really have to reflect on where it makes sense to have a switchable socket outlet. Then you can run a 5 x 1.5 mm² (5 x 16 AWG) cable and have the possibility to switch several outlets without it getting out of control. Of course, there are many nice gadgets in KNX, and the possibilities are almost endless. We’ll see what actually gets implemented in the end. For me, the first stage will only include roller shutters, lighting, and a heat recovery ventilation system, because I didn’t want those ugly room thermostats. I will also rely a lot on presence detectors. As basic switches, I will use the MDT Glass Push Buttons SMART II. Regarding lighting, an important question is whether you want dimming or not; otherwise, it can be simply controlled via a switching actuator.
Best regards,
Thomas
Regarding sensors, I’m still thinking about it, as I’m still considering what I want to automate now or later, so that will take a while.
I currently live in an apartment where four sockets in the living room are switchable together. I have my Philips Hue Living Colors connected to it and am very satisfied with the functionality. However, it would work perfectly fine without this switching function as well.
In a first draft room schedule, I came up with 31 light points and 33 sockets.
However, these are details we still need to carefully consider where it makes sense and where not — same with dimming.
@Tom1607
Thanks for all the info!
Regarding low-voltage lighting, I initially assumed that the transformers have to be placed within 2 m (6.5 ft) of the light point. With a concrete ceiling, that would mean suitable halogen connection boxes with transformer tunnels.
If the transformers can also be installed in the distribution cabinet, that would be easier, at least that’s how I imagine it.
ONeill schrieb:
If you want, I can send you my planning documents so you can see how I planned it.
I also worked with the book and the mentioned forum and will do the installation myself.
If interested, just send me a private message.
Thanks! I’ll send you a PM right away!
Uwe82 schrieb:
We also did it like that and did the rest ourselves. I have since upgraded to the pro version of ETS.
We will also initially "neglect" the heating control. If necessary, I can always run the cables later.
I wonder why I need all those room thermostats anyway. With such a slow system like underfloor heating, that’s just a gimmick.
I work myself in a consulting office for building services engineering; therefore, I will probably do the planning including calculations myself.
Assuming a hydraulic balancing, the underfloor heating is usually set once and that’s it.
Still, just to be safe, I will run a cable to the distribution board—you never know.
PhelliBunny22 Jul 2016 08:26matte1987 schrieb:
Assuming a hydraulic balancing is done, the underfloor heating is usually set once and that's it.
Still, I will probably run a cable to the manifold just to be safe, you never know If you cannot be exempted, you are required by the energy saving regulations to provide individual room control, so you won’t avoid running the cable.
PhelliBunny22 Jul 2016 10:18By cable, I meant a cable to the underfloor heating manifold; everything else, of course, is done with KNX.