ᐅ Solid construction or drywall for non-load-bearing interior walls
Created on: 12 Apr 2011 08:54
E
E.CurbHello,
I assume that the rest of your house is built with solid masonry, correct?
Of course, it is possible to construct the non-load-bearing interior walls using drywall systems. These are somewhat more cost-effective per square meter.
However, the connection between a drywall interior partition and a solid wall (exterior wall or load-bearing interior wall) can be a bit challenging. Due to the different movements of the materials, cracks may develop. There are ways to prevent this (for example, using paper joint tape). Still, I would recommend having this done by a professional, as it requires some craftsmanship skills.
Additionally, with solid construction, you get better sound insulation and higher thermal mass, which is advantageous during summer. Also, consider the ease of hanging pictures.
In general, I would advise minimizing the mixing of materials—mainly because of their different expansion and contraction behaviors...
Best regards
I assume that the rest of your house is built with solid masonry, correct?
Of course, it is possible to construct the non-load-bearing interior walls using drywall systems. These are somewhat more cost-effective per square meter.
However, the connection between a drywall interior partition and a solid wall (exterior wall or load-bearing interior wall) can be a bit challenging. Due to the different movements of the materials, cracks may develop. There are ways to prevent this (for example, using paper joint tape). Still, I would recommend having this done by a professional, as it requires some craftsmanship skills.
Additionally, with solid construction, you get better sound insulation and higher thermal mass, which is advantageous during summer. Also, consider the ease of hanging pictures.
In general, I would advise minimizing the mixing of materials—mainly because of their different expansion and contraction behaviors...
Best regards
B
Bauexperte12 Apr 2011 10:21Hello,
The walls in the attic are often constructed using drywall, which has the advantage that in the coming years—when, for example, the children have moved out—the room layout can be easily changed without causing much mess; in the attic, there are no load-bearing walls—except possibly around the stairwell depending on structural requirements.
The sound insulation is actually better than its reputation suggests. For those who do not consider a drywall partition a real wall, the use of gypsum boards is recommended—it is usually cost-neutral. If you do want solid interior walls, ask for a quote for calcium silicate bricks—but then consistently for both the ground floor and the attic.
Kind regards
Nachtzeche schrieb:
We are facing the question of whether to have our non-load-bearing interior walls built as solid masonry walls or installed as drywall partitions.
Nachtzeche schrieb:
Can anyone help me by listing the advantages and disadvantages of both systems?
The walls in the attic are often constructed using drywall, which has the advantage that in the coming years—when, for example, the children have moved out—the room layout can be easily changed without causing much mess; in the attic, there are no load-bearing walls—except possibly around the stairwell depending on structural requirements.
The sound insulation is actually better than its reputation suggests. For those who do not consider a drywall partition a real wall, the use of gypsum boards is recommended—it is usually cost-neutral. If you do want solid interior walls, ask for a quote for calcium silicate bricks—but then consistently for both the ground floor and the attic.
Kind regards
One disadvantage of drywall construction is the gypsum board wall. But it can also be an advantage. To install a wall plug here, you need a drywall anchor. In contrast, when drilling into a plastered brick wall, you might end up breaking out a huge hole in the wall (plaster).
Drywall construction is fast, cost-effective, and flexible.
Alternatively, the walls can be double-layered. First, a layer of particleboard, then gypsum board. This would be the perfect solution.
Later, when installing a shelf or similar, simply screw in a Spacks. It holds very securely...
Drywall construction is fast, cost-effective, and flexible.
Alternatively, the walls can be double-layered. First, a layer of particleboard, then gypsum board. This would be the perfect solution.
Later, when installing a shelf or similar, simply screw in a Spacks. It holds very securely...
Hello,
I came across this topic by chance. As a civil engineer with expertise in sound insulation for residential buildings, I have to say that people who respond to such topics without the necessary knowledge should rather refrain from doing so.
In the first reply from E.Curb, apart from the advice that a professional should handle it, everything else is incorrect!
Here is a brief explanation with sources that I wrote when a local contractor tried to explain similar nonsense to me:
Some reading material on soundproofing using drywall compared to sand-lime brick and aerated concrete (Ytong) between living spaces:
With the 12.5 mm (0.5 inches) LaSound board from Siniat, aside from the enormous advantage of the force-locking connection from the roof structure to the reinforced concrete ceiling—thanks to the aluminum carrier system that can absorb compressive and tensile stresses of the roof without risk of cracking (which solid walls on upper floors often have)—sound insulation values of up to 67 dB can be achieved, which is in the inaudible range.
Sand-lime brick can only reach this level with double-layer apartment partition walls including an air gap down to the foundation (which is not feasible for interior walls). Otherwise, it performs more than 10 dB worse. In the range of 40-60 dB, every 2 dB increase corresponds to a doubling of perceived loudness. So every 2 dB is twice as loud!
For aerated concrete (Ytong), even with a thickness of 32 cm (12.6 inches), only a sound insulation value of 45-46 dB can be achieved.
Now you understand why all the major construction companies do it this way. Because it is better!
Best regards....
I came across this topic by chance. As a civil engineer with expertise in sound insulation for residential buildings, I have to say that people who respond to such topics without the necessary knowledge should rather refrain from doing so.
In the first reply from E.Curb, apart from the advice that a professional should handle it, everything else is incorrect!
Here is a brief explanation with sources that I wrote when a local contractor tried to explain similar nonsense to me:
Some reading material on soundproofing using drywall compared to sand-lime brick and aerated concrete (Ytong) between living spaces:
With the 12.5 mm (0.5 inches) LaSound board from Siniat, aside from the enormous advantage of the force-locking connection from the roof structure to the reinforced concrete ceiling—thanks to the aluminum carrier system that can absorb compressive and tensile stresses of the roof without risk of cracking (which solid walls on upper floors often have)—sound insulation values of up to 67 dB can be achieved, which is in the inaudible range.
Sand-lime brick can only reach this level with double-layer apartment partition walls including an air gap down to the foundation (which is not feasible for interior walls). Otherwise, it performs more than 10 dB worse. In the range of 40-60 dB, every 2 dB increase corresponds to a doubling of perceived loudness. So every 2 dB is twice as loud!
For aerated concrete (Ytong), even with a thickness of 32 cm (12.6 inches), only a sound insulation value of 45-46 dB can be achieved.
Now you understand why all the major construction companies do it this way. Because it is better!
Best regards....
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