Hello,
this is the first winter in my newly built house,
so I am starting to optimize the heating system.
I have installed the Buderus Logaplus package W22
GB172-14, G20, WU160W, RC300 package with an outdoor temperature sensor.
The house is completely equipped with underfloor heating with 10cm (4 inches) pipe spacing, triple-glazed windows, exterior walls consisting of 24cm (9.5 inches) Poroton bricks plus 16cm (6 inches) external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS).
Now my question is how to best set up the heating system, unfortunately I did not receive any instruction from my heating engineer.
Let me first give you some data.
Maximum flow temperature: 50°C (122°F)
Heating setpoint: 22°C (72°F)
Lowering temperature: heating off
Summer mode from 13°C (55°F)
Domestic hot water: 55°C (131°F)
Circulation pump switching frequency: 3/hour
Burner starts: 5247 (since mid-February)
Burner runtime: 2387 hours (since mid-February)
Service menu:
Menu 1:
1.7d. 0: no external flow temperature sensor connected
Menu 2:
2.1A: 14 kW
2.1B: 15 kW
2.1C: 2: Constant pressure 200 mbar
2.1E: 4: Intelligent heating pump shutdown...
2.1F: 0: Heating pump and 3-way valve (internal)
2.3b: Time interval between burner switch-off and switch-on 10 minutes
2.3C: Temperature interval for burner switch-off and switch-on 6 K
2.3F: Hot water keep-warm duration 1 minute
2.9F: Heating pump post-run time 3 minutes
2.CE: Number of starts of circulation pump 3 min on, 17 min off
Menu 3:
3.1A: 14 kW maximum heating output
3.1B: 15 kW maximum domestic hot water output
3.2b: 50°C (122°F) maximum flow temperature
3.3d: 3.2 kW minimum nominal heat output
These are the details I know, I hope I didn’t overwhelm you too much.
I would appreciate any advice.
Thank you very much
this is the first winter in my newly built house,
so I am starting to optimize the heating system.
I have installed the Buderus Logaplus package W22
GB172-14, G20, WU160W, RC300 package with an outdoor temperature sensor.
The house is completely equipped with underfloor heating with 10cm (4 inches) pipe spacing, triple-glazed windows, exterior walls consisting of 24cm (9.5 inches) Poroton bricks plus 16cm (6 inches) external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS).
Now my question is how to best set up the heating system, unfortunately I did not receive any instruction from my heating engineer.
Let me first give you some data.
Maximum flow temperature: 50°C (122°F)
Heating setpoint: 22°C (72°F)
Lowering temperature: heating off
Summer mode from 13°C (55°F)
Domestic hot water: 55°C (131°F)
Circulation pump switching frequency: 3/hour
Burner starts: 5247 (since mid-February)
Burner runtime: 2387 hours (since mid-February)
Service menu:
Menu 1:
1.7d. 0: no external flow temperature sensor connected
Menu 2:
2.1A: 14 kW
2.1B: 15 kW
2.1C: 2: Constant pressure 200 mbar
2.1E: 4: Intelligent heating pump shutdown...
2.1F: 0: Heating pump and 3-way valve (internal)
2.3b: Time interval between burner switch-off and switch-on 10 minutes
2.3C: Temperature interval for burner switch-off and switch-on 6 K
2.3F: Hot water keep-warm duration 1 minute
2.9F: Heating pump post-run time 3 minutes
2.CE: Number of starts of circulation pump 3 min on, 17 min off
Menu 3:
3.1A: 14 kW maximum heating output
3.1B: 15 kW maximum domestic hot water output
3.2b: 50°C (122°F) maximum flow temperature
3.3d: 3.2 kW minimum nominal heat output
These are the details I know, I hope I didn’t overwhelm you too much.
I would appreciate any advice.
Thank you very much
E
ErikErdgas2 Jan 2017 10:21Hello,
as Mycraft mentioned, how quickly a room cools down depends on the temperature difference between the inside and outside.
Different proportions of surfaces facing heated rooms, unheated rooms, and exterior walls (for example, a bathroom located in a corner of the house) as well as varying room temperatures can naturally cause rooms to cool down at different rates.
Best regards, Erik from moderne.Heizung
as Mycraft mentioned, how quickly a room cools down depends on the temperature difference between the inside and outside.
Different proportions of surfaces facing heated rooms, unheated rooms, and exterior walls (for example, a bathroom located in a corner of the house) as well as varying room temperatures can naturally cause rooms to cool down at different rates.
Best regards, Erik from moderne.Heizung
oggear51 schrieb:
that the flow rate is set the same on every loop, meaning fully open, then it is probably clear that no hydraulic balancing has been done, right? It is very likely that this assumption is correct.So, after I sent the heating engineer a letter, he came today and "fixed" all the issues. He claimed to have completed the hydraulic balancing in about 20 minutes. You don’t have to be a professional to know that this can’t be done properly in such a short time, especially not with 18 heating circuits. How is hydraulic balancing correctly performed? Don’t you normally need measuring devices for this?
Edit: All the heating circuits show a flow rate of 1 liter (0.26 gallons), so he actually didn’t do anything. He says he will send me the report in the next few days.
Edit: All the heating circuits show a flow rate of 1 liter (0.26 gallons), so he actually didn’t do anything. He says he will send me the report in the next few days.