Hello,
this is the first winter in my newly built house,
so I am starting to optimize the heating system.
I have installed the Buderus Logaplus package W22
GB172-14, G20, WU160W, RC300 package with an outdoor temperature sensor.
The house is completely equipped with underfloor heating with 10cm (4 inches) pipe spacing, triple-glazed windows, exterior walls consisting of 24cm (9.5 inches) Poroton bricks plus 16cm (6 inches) external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS).
Now my question is how to best set up the heating system, unfortunately I did not receive any instruction from my heating engineer.
Let me first give you some data.
Maximum flow temperature: 50°C (122°F)
Heating setpoint: 22°C (72°F)
Lowering temperature: heating off
Summer mode from 13°C (55°F)
Domestic hot water: 55°C (131°F)
Circulation pump switching frequency: 3/hour
Burner starts: 5247 (since mid-February)
Burner runtime: 2387 hours (since mid-February)
Service menu:
Menu 1:
1.7d. 0: no external flow temperature sensor connected
Menu 2:
2.1A: 14 kW
2.1B: 15 kW
2.1C: 2: Constant pressure 200 mbar
2.1E: 4: Intelligent heating pump shutdown...
2.1F: 0: Heating pump and 3-way valve (internal)
2.3b: Time interval between burner switch-off and switch-on 10 minutes
2.3C: Temperature interval for burner switch-off and switch-on 6 K
2.3F: Hot water keep-warm duration 1 minute
2.9F: Heating pump post-run time 3 minutes
2.CE: Number of starts of circulation pump 3 min on, 17 min off
Menu 3:
3.1A: 14 kW maximum heating output
3.1B: 15 kW maximum domestic hot water output
3.2b: 50°C (122°F) maximum flow temperature
3.3d: 3.2 kW minimum nominal heat output
These are the details I know, I hope I didn’t overwhelm you too much.
I would appreciate any advice.
Thank you very much
this is the first winter in my newly built house,
so I am starting to optimize the heating system.
I have installed the Buderus Logaplus package W22
GB172-14, G20, WU160W, RC300 package with an outdoor temperature sensor.
The house is completely equipped with underfloor heating with 10cm (4 inches) pipe spacing, triple-glazed windows, exterior walls consisting of 24cm (9.5 inches) Poroton bricks plus 16cm (6 inches) external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS).
Now my question is how to best set up the heating system, unfortunately I did not receive any instruction from my heating engineer.
Let me first give you some data.
Maximum flow temperature: 50°C (122°F)
Heating setpoint: 22°C (72°F)
Lowering temperature: heating off
Summer mode from 13°C (55°F)
Domestic hot water: 55°C (131°F)
Circulation pump switching frequency: 3/hour
Burner starts: 5247 (since mid-February)
Burner runtime: 2387 hours (since mid-February)
Service menu:
Menu 1:
1.7d. 0: no external flow temperature sensor connected
Menu 2:
2.1A: 14 kW
2.1B: 15 kW
2.1C: 2: Constant pressure 200 mbar
2.1E: 4: Intelligent heating pump shutdown...
2.1F: 0: Heating pump and 3-way valve (internal)
2.3b: Time interval between burner switch-off and switch-on 10 minutes
2.3C: Temperature interval for burner switch-off and switch-on 6 K
2.3F: Hot water keep-warm duration 1 minute
2.9F: Heating pump post-run time 3 minutes
2.CE: Number of starts of circulation pump 3 min on, 17 min off
Menu 3:
3.1A: 14 kW maximum heating output
3.1B: 15 kW maximum domestic hot water output
3.2b: 50°C (122°F) maximum flow temperature
3.3d: 3.2 kW minimum nominal heat output
These are the details I know, I hope I didn’t overwhelm you too much.
I would appreciate any advice.
Thank you very much
Yes, but you don’t need to keep the water at that temperature all the time.
45°C (113°F) is enough, and then run a legionella prevention program once a month. (Most heating systems already have this feature.) This means heating the water above 60°C (140°F) once a month. For the rest of the month, keep it at 45°C (113°F). This should save some energy.
Otherwise, fully open the thermostat valve in the bathroom, then adjust the heating curve down until the desired room temperature is reached and the room does not overheat without the valve.
45°C (113°F) is enough, and then run a legionella prevention program once a month. (Most heating systems already have this feature.) This means heating the water above 60°C (140°F) once a month. For the rest of the month, keep it at 45°C (113°F). This should save some energy.
Otherwise, fully open the thermostat valve in the bathroom, then adjust the heating curve down until the desired room temperature is reached and the room does not overheat without the valve.
It does not maintain 55 degrees Celsius (131°F) consistently.
I have the eco mode turned on, which means it only heats again above 45 degrees Celsius (113°F). If I were to lower it to 45 degrees Celsius (113°F), I would have to set it to continuous heating. I would need to try that to see if it would be more economical.
I have the eco mode turned on, which means it only heats again above 45 degrees Celsius (113°F). If I were to lower it to 45 degrees Celsius (113°F), I would have to set it to continuous heating. I would need to try that to see if it would be more economical.
No matter what the manufacturer calls it... the water is kept at a certain temperature... or heated to that temperature...
I don’t have 45 or 55 degrees Celsius (113 or 131 degrees Fahrenheit) warm water coming into the house... and I don’t think you do either... it is only brought to those temperatures by the heat source.
But first try out what is more cost-effective for you...
I don’t have 45 or 55 degrees Celsius (113 or 131 degrees Fahrenheit) warm water coming into the house... and I don’t think you do either... it is only brought to those temperatures by the heat source.
But first try out what is more cost-effective for you...
B
Bieber081530 Nov 2016 10:01Alex85 schrieb:
55 degrees with an air-to-water heat pump still seems quite high to me He mentions burner starts and burner runtime above. Therefore, I assume that no air-to-water heat pump is installed. The "Buderus Logaplus-Paket W22 GB172-14, G20" appears to be a gas condensing boiler.
Regarding Legionella, the question would be whether there is a storage tank and how large it is.
Bieber0815 schrieb:
He mentions burner starts and burner run time above. Therefore, I assume that no air-to-water heat pump is installed. The "Buderus Logaplus package W22 GB172-14, G20" appears to be a gas condensing boiler.Oops, you are absolutely right. No idea how I came up with air-to-water heat pump.
In that case, I find 55 degrees Celsius (131°F) for domestic hot water not too critical. For heating the hot water, a gas boiler only needs to fire up once anyway.
It's written a bit poorly.
I have, of course, a gas condensing boiler with a 170-liter (45-gallon) storage tank. I just realized that a 170-liter (45-gallon) tank is actually unlikely to develop Legionella because it gets used up quite quickly (at the latest when taking a bath). I need to test that.
Regarding the heating system, is there any way for me to check if a hydraulic balancing has been done?
I have, of course, a gas condensing boiler with a 170-liter (45-gallon) storage tank. I just realized that a 170-liter (45-gallon) tank is actually unlikely to develop Legionella because it gets used up quite quickly (at the latest when taking a bath). I need to test that.
Regarding the heating system, is there any way for me to check if a hydraulic balancing has been done?
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