Good evening,
although this concerns a balcony, since it is about automatic plant irrigation, I think this thread fits well in the plumbing section; if not, please feel free to move it.
A ready-made drip irrigation system is not an option for the reasons below (containers with water reservoirs).
I would prefer to build a stable pipe system, probably using a copper pipe, which will be supplied by a rain barrel water pump. The pipe (without the suction part) should run at about 1 meter (3 feet) above the floor along the railing, with a total length of about 8 meters (26 feet).
Several T-joints will be installed in this pipe—one for each container to be watered (around 20 in total)—and, of course, the end will be closed with an end cap.
At each T-joint, I want to draw water to supply my containers with integrated water reservoir systems (Lechuza) with the right amount of water for each planter, so different amounts for different plants. This should be possible by using different T-joint diameters, from which I would hang clear PVC tubes and lead them into the filling openings of the containers, or will this not work? (Overwatering is not really a concern because my containers have overflow protection.)
It would be even better if the outflow volume at the T-joints could be adjusted, for example, with adjustment screws—does such a thing exist?
I really have absolutely no experience with pipe installation (which any knowledgeable plumber reading along has probably already noticed), let alone with choosing the correct diameters. Therefore, probably the most important question: what websites would you recommend for someone mathematically literate but a plumbing novice, to gain insight into the required pressures (for selecting a suitable pump) and transport capacities? And what tools do I need to cut threads on copper pipes?
Can my plan even work?
Many thanks in advance for any hopefully enlightening contributions!
although this concerns a balcony, since it is about automatic plant irrigation, I think this thread fits well in the plumbing section; if not, please feel free to move it.
A ready-made drip irrigation system is not an option for the reasons below (containers with water reservoirs).
I would prefer to build a stable pipe system, probably using a copper pipe, which will be supplied by a rain barrel water pump. The pipe (without the suction part) should run at about 1 meter (3 feet) above the floor along the railing, with a total length of about 8 meters (26 feet).
Several T-joints will be installed in this pipe—one for each container to be watered (around 20 in total)—and, of course, the end will be closed with an end cap.
At each T-joint, I want to draw water to supply my containers with integrated water reservoir systems (Lechuza) with the right amount of water for each planter, so different amounts for different plants. This should be possible by using different T-joint diameters, from which I would hang clear PVC tubes and lead them into the filling openings of the containers, or will this not work? (Overwatering is not really a concern because my containers have overflow protection.)
It would be even better if the outflow volume at the T-joints could be adjusted, for example, with adjustment screws—does such a thing exist?
I really have absolutely no experience with pipe installation (which any knowledgeable plumber reading along has probably already noticed), let alone with choosing the correct diameters. Therefore, probably the most important question: what websites would you recommend for someone mathematically literate but a plumbing novice, to gain insight into the required pressures (for selecting a suitable pump) and transport capacities? And what tools do I need to cut threads on copper pipes?
Can my plan even work?
Many thanks in advance for any hopefully enlightening contributions!
G
Gulliveig7 Aug 2016 08:46Update one year later
So, here’s an update after the second season in operation, and it’s working very satisfactorily.
I purchased two of the Gardena balcony irrigation systems, which are actually designed for watering during vacation absences. I’m not interested in the included drippers, though. Additional materials I bought: much more than the supplied 10 m (30 feet) tubing (60 m (197 feet), but some was waste due to trial-and-error), several small bags of L- and T-connectors, and for each planter a 20 L/h (5.3 gallons/hour) nozzle.
In total, there are six flexible PVC water pipes, each with a diameter of 4.6 mm (0.18 inches). They run from the water barrel through L-connectors into cable ducts from the hardware store. I bridge the vertical metal glass partitions with additional L-connectors.
From the pipes, I branch off the water supply to the individual containers using T-connectors. It works very well — even the hanging planter receives more than enough water.
Tendentially, you water a bit too much (20 liters (5.3 gallons) flow through in just 3 minutes), but the Lechuza containers have an overflow system, so waterlogging cannot occur.
Best regards,
Herbert
So, here’s an update after the second season in operation, and it’s working very satisfactorily.
I purchased two of the Gardena balcony irrigation systems, which are actually designed for watering during vacation absences. I’m not interested in the included drippers, though. Additional materials I bought: much more than the supplied 10 m (30 feet) tubing (60 m (197 feet), but some was waste due to trial-and-error), several small bags of L- and T-connectors, and for each planter a 20 L/h (5.3 gallons/hour) nozzle.
In total, there are six flexible PVC water pipes, each with a diameter of 4.6 mm (0.18 inches). They run from the water barrel through L-connectors into cable ducts from the hardware store. I bridge the vertical metal glass partitions with additional L-connectors.
From the pipes, I branch off the water supply to the individual containers using T-connectors. It works very well — even the hanging planter receives more than enough water.
Tendentially, you water a bit too much (20 liters (5.3 gallons) flow through in just 3 minutes), but the Lechuza containers have an overflow system, so waterlogging cannot occur.
Best regards,
Herbert