Good evening,
although this concerns a balcony, since it is about automatic plant irrigation, I think this thread fits well in the plumbing section; if not, please feel free to move it.
A ready-made drip irrigation system is not an option for the reasons below (containers with water reservoirs).
I would prefer to build a stable pipe system, probably using a copper pipe, which will be supplied by a rain barrel water pump. The pipe (without the suction part) should run at about 1 meter (3 feet) above the floor along the railing, with a total length of about 8 meters (26 feet).
Several T-joints will be installed in this pipe—one for each container to be watered (around 20 in total)—and, of course, the end will be closed with an end cap.
At each T-joint, I want to draw water to supply my containers with integrated water reservoir systems (Lechuza) with the right amount of water for each planter, so different amounts for different plants. This should be possible by using different T-joint diameters, from which I would hang clear PVC tubes and lead them into the filling openings of the containers, or will this not work? (Overwatering is not really a concern because my containers have overflow protection.)
It would be even better if the outflow volume at the T-joints could be adjusted, for example, with adjustment screws—does such a thing exist?
I really have absolutely no experience with pipe installation (which any knowledgeable plumber reading along has probably already noticed), let alone with choosing the correct diameters. Therefore, probably the most important question: what websites would you recommend for someone mathematically literate but a plumbing novice, to gain insight into the required pressures (for selecting a suitable pump) and transport capacities? And what tools do I need to cut threads on copper pipes?
Can my plan even work?
Many thanks in advance for any hopefully enlightening contributions!
although this concerns a balcony, since it is about automatic plant irrigation, I think this thread fits well in the plumbing section; if not, please feel free to move it.
A ready-made drip irrigation system is not an option for the reasons below (containers with water reservoirs).
I would prefer to build a stable pipe system, probably using a copper pipe, which will be supplied by a rain barrel water pump. The pipe (without the suction part) should run at about 1 meter (3 feet) above the floor along the railing, with a total length of about 8 meters (26 feet).
Several T-joints will be installed in this pipe—one for each container to be watered (around 20 in total)—and, of course, the end will be closed with an end cap.
At each T-joint, I want to draw water to supply my containers with integrated water reservoir systems (Lechuza) with the right amount of water for each planter, so different amounts for different plants. This should be possible by using different T-joint diameters, from which I would hang clear PVC tubes and lead them into the filling openings of the containers, or will this not work? (Overwatering is not really a concern because my containers have overflow protection.)
It would be even better if the outflow volume at the T-joints could be adjusted, for example, with adjustment screws—does such a thing exist?
I really have absolutely no experience with pipe installation (which any knowledgeable plumber reading along has probably already noticed), let alone with choosing the correct diameters. Therefore, probably the most important question: what websites would you recommend for someone mathematically literate but a plumbing novice, to gain insight into the required pressures (for selecting a suitable pump) and transport capacities? And what tools do I need to cut threads on copper pipes?
Can my plan even work?
Many thanks in advance for any hopefully enlightening contributions!
EveundGerd22 May 2015 22:17No, the lightweight expanded clay aggregate is at the bottom of the container with soil on top.
It works perfectly. 🙂
It works perfectly. 🙂
B
Bauexperte22 May 2015 22:20Good evening Eve,
Regards, Bauexperte
EveundGerd schrieb:Comparable to hydroponics, just filled with soil instead?
No, the expanded clay is at the bottom of the containers with soil on top.
Works great. 🙂
Regards, Bauexperte
EveundGerd22 May 2015 22:32Good evening, building expert,
yes, it has a similar effect. However, plants generally do not thrive as well in pure hydroponics as they do in a mix.
There is a type of clay granulate from Substral that is mixed with soil. It is quite expensive and contains a lot of fertilizer. Depending on the nutrient requirements, this can sometimes be too much and could “burn” the roots.
I prefer expanded clay aggregate, then expanded clay mixed with soil, and depending on the plant, fertilizer, followed by soil.
Best regards, Eve
yes, it has a similar effect. However, plants generally do not thrive as well in pure hydroponics as they do in a mix.
There is a type of clay granulate from Substral that is mixed with soil. It is quite expensive and contains a lot of fertilizer. Depending on the nutrient requirements, this can sometimes be too much and could “burn” the roots.
I prefer expanded clay aggregate, then expanded clay mixed with soil, and depending on the plant, fertilizer, followed by soil.
Best regards, Eve
B
Bauexperte22 May 2015 22:34Hello Eve,
Thank you for your explanation!
Sounds good and practical; I will definitely adopt it 😀
Best regards, Bauexperte
Thank you for your explanation!
Sounds good and practical; I will definitely adopt it 😀
Best regards, Bauexperte
In the Lechuza system, a clay granulate is placed at the bottom first, and soil is added on top. The advantage is the additional water reservoir with an overflow feature. This means there is never too much water in the pot. The plants usually take about two weeks before the water reservoir can be allowed to empty properly (which is also recommended), indicated by the water level indicator. Until then, I refill almost daily because the roots haven’t yet grown through the granulate to reach the water reservoir.
Of my 12 containers, 2 are from different systems, which were my initial purchases. These also have a water reservoir and overflow with a water level indicator. However, they lack a proper filling hole, and the water level indicator doesn’t work as well.
Of my 12 containers, 2 are from different systems, which were my initial purchases. These also have a water reservoir and overflow with a water level indicator. However, they lack a proper filling hole, and the water level indicator doesn’t work as well.
EveundGerd22 May 2015 23:23Lightweight expanded clay aggregate is available at the hardware store or home improvement center, usually at the best price. 😉
To ensure the roots receive enough water from the start, a portion of the clay is mixed with soil. Every outdoor planter should have an overflow or drainage hole to prevent waterlogging. Otherwise, rainwater can quickly cause serious problems. It is also advisable to place a saucer under the planter to avoid water spilling directly onto the balcony or terrace.
To ensure the roots receive enough water from the start, a portion of the clay is mixed with soil. Every outdoor planter should have an overflow or drainage hole to prevent waterlogging. Otherwise, rainwater can quickly cause serious problems. It is also advisable to place a saucer under the planter to avoid water spilling directly onto the balcony or terrace.
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