Hello everyone,
I need to finalize the planning for the recessed downlights in our new build this week. Everywhere there will be suspended drywall ceilings. I know you can calculate everything using beam angles and so on, but I don’t have the time for that. Therefore, I followed the rule of thumb of “double the distance between the spots compared to the distance from the wall” and tried to ensure the number of spots provides adequate lighting for the rooms (hallway 100 lumens, living room 200, bathroom 300 L/sqm² (30 lumens/sqft)).
Could you please take a look and let me know if anything stands out, also regarding the dimensions? The attachments are somewhat simple, but I think everything is understandable.
Kitchen:
Spots are positioned directly above the countertop to avoid shadows cast by people. There will probably be 3 pendant lamps over the island. The question here is whether the lighting will be sufficient or if I should install additional spots for the walkway between the kitchen worktop and the island?
Bathroom in a T-layout
The row of spots in the shower and toilet area should be clear. The question is whether just one row of spots near the vanity and bathtub would be enough?
Hallway:
This is a bit tricky since we have the stairway and additionally a recess in the ceiling for the attic stairs. Also, the hallway extends further at the bottom of the plan, but here the sloped roof begins. Is a 1.35m (4.4 ft) distance from the wall too much, and do I need to install more spots in the 47cm (18.5 inches) niche between the wall and the RuckZuck stairs? Is one spot sufficient for the corridor to the left of the stairs?
Living room:
Here I used two colors because the spots should be switchable separately. The outer red ring will mainly provide indirect lighting. All spots will be dimmable. Unfortunately, I can’t provide the horizontal dimensions yet because they depend on the beam spacing.
I appreciate any suggestions, criticism, or feedback.
I need to finalize the planning for the recessed downlights in our new build this week. Everywhere there will be suspended drywall ceilings. I know you can calculate everything using beam angles and so on, but I don’t have the time for that. Therefore, I followed the rule of thumb of “double the distance between the spots compared to the distance from the wall” and tried to ensure the number of spots provides adequate lighting for the rooms (hallway 100 lumens, living room 200, bathroom 300 L/sqm² (30 lumens/sqft)).
Could you please take a look and let me know if anything stands out, also regarding the dimensions? The attachments are somewhat simple, but I think everything is understandable.
Kitchen:
Spots are positioned directly above the countertop to avoid shadows cast by people. There will probably be 3 pendant lamps over the island. The question here is whether the lighting will be sufficient or if I should install additional spots for the walkway between the kitchen worktop and the island?
Bathroom in a T-layout
The row of spots in the shower and toilet area should be clear. The question is whether just one row of spots near the vanity and bathtub would be enough?
Hallway:
This is a bit tricky since we have the stairway and additionally a recess in the ceiling for the attic stairs. Also, the hallway extends further at the bottom of the plan, but here the sloped roof begins. Is a 1.35m (4.4 ft) distance from the wall too much, and do I need to install more spots in the 47cm (18.5 inches) niche between the wall and the RuckZuck stairs? Is one spot sufficient for the corridor to the left of the stairs?
Living room:
Here I used two colors because the spots should be switchable separately. The outer red ring will mainly provide indirect lighting. All spots will be dimmable. Unfortunately, I can’t provide the horizontal dimensions yet because they depend on the beam spacing.
I appreciate any suggestions, criticism, or feedback.
R
Reini123412 Jul 2019 12:45Ceiling height 2.55m (8.37 ft), LED spotlights 8W with a 35-degree beam angle. However, I am open to all options. The surface will be a lime plaster.
Thanks first of all for the additional information.
What is the CRI and the color temperature?
Are the lights dimmable?
In general, you should consider whether you really need such uniform lighting in the bathroom. A ceiling fully covered with recessed spotlights doesn’t usually look very good.
What is the IP rating of the spots if you also want to use them in the shower/bathroom?
Please specify the model of the spotlights. The luminous flux can vary a lot even at 8 watts.
Without having done the calculations, I would say you won’t reach 300 L/m² (lux) in the bathroom. A beam angle of 35° is already quite narrow.
What is the CRI and the color temperature?
Are the lights dimmable?
In general, you should consider whether you really need such uniform lighting in the bathroom. A ceiling fully covered with recessed spotlights doesn’t usually look very good.
What is the IP rating of the spots if you also want to use them in the shower/bathroom?
Please specify the model of the spotlights. The luminous flux can vary a lot even at 8 watts.
Without having done the calculations, I would say you won’t reach 300 L/m² (lux) in the bathroom. A beam angle of 35° is already quite narrow.
R
Reini123414 Jul 2019 23:41I’m considering the Osram Parathom PAR16. 2700K, dimmable.
As I said, I’m open to any options.
As I said, I’m open to any options.
Okay, this is getting clearer now. You want to use LED bulbs in a GU10 socket.
I was assuming you were referring to LED recessed downlights.
To use these bulbs in a damp area or even in a shower, the socket must have the appropriate ingress protection rating (IP rating).
Have you tried getting some samples yet? Personally, 2700 K would be too yellowish for me.
Also, have a look at the constaled series from Voltus, for example. They are available with a 60° beam angle and, importantly, offer a better CRI value.
The matching sockets are also available there.
I was assuming you were referring to LED recessed downlights.
To use these bulbs in a damp area or even in a shower, the socket must have the appropriate ingress protection rating (IP rating).
Have you tried getting some samples yet? Personally, 2700 K would be too yellowish for me.
Also, have a look at the constaled series from Voltus, for example. They are available with a 60° beam angle and, importantly, offer a better CRI value.
The matching sockets are also available there.
R
Reini123415 Jul 2019 11:47Ok, thanks, I will take a look.
What should I do now with my bathroom?
What should I do now with my bathroom?
First, you need to be clear about the lighting fixtures. Then you can determine the positions and distances. If you don’t have the time or inclination to do the calculations yourself, there are several providers who can do this for you free of charge or for a small fee.
If the result doesn’t have to be 100% precise, your current plan is certainly not wrong.
If the result doesn’t have to be 100% precise, your current plan is certainly not wrong.