Hello everyone, I have noticed that the plastic coating on some edges of my Ikea KALLAX shelf is peeling off. This mainly happens on the outer edges of the shelves and not only looks unattractive but also causes faster wear. I am therefore interested in knowing which glue or method is best to securely and permanently reattach these edges. It is important to me that the adhesive is transparent and durable over time since the shelf is located in a frequently used living room and needs to withstand some wear and tear. Does anyone have practical experience or recommendations on products or methods that have proven effective? Thank you in advance for your help!
C
cassandra16 Feb 2021 15:18NUPIN schrieb:
I used a special plastic adhesive from Pattex back then – the "Pattex Plastic Special."That’s a good tip. Pattex Plastic Special cures very quickly and provides strong adhesion to plastic films. It’s important not to use too much adhesive, as excess glue often cannot be removed and may cause unsightly discoloration.
For minor damage, applying several thin layers is recommended. The surface to be glued should be degreased and cleaned beforehand, as mentioned. For larger areas, it might be better to gently roughen the edge with fine sandpaper to improve adhesion.
Hi, I just wanted to add a quick note about the practicality of gluing. If you fix your KALLAX edges with superglue, you should also keep in mind that many superglues are quite brittle. This can quickly lead to parts coming loose again, especially with furniture that might wobble slightly or be subjected to stress.
So, for areas that will experience mechanical stress or frequent movement, a flexible construction adhesive might be a better choice – for example, a clear adhesive based on silicone or MS polymer. These take a bit longer to cure but offer better elasticity and longer-lasting hold.
The downside: these adhesives are not as clear or transparent as superglue, but if the spot is not fully visible, they are a good alternative!
So, for areas that will experience mechanical stress or frequent movement, a flexible construction adhesive might be a better choice – for example, a clear adhesive based on silicone or MS polymer. These take a bit longer to cure but offer better elasticity and longer-lasting hold.
The downside: these adhesives are not as clear or transparent as superglue, but if the spot is not fully visible, they are a good alternative!
In addition to the adhesive selection, I would like to offer a recommendation for the installation process based on my own DIY experience:
After cleaning and preparing the surface by sanding, I suggest applying the adhesive carefully in small amounts using a toothpick or a thin spatula. This saves a lot of material and prevents excess adhesive, which can be difficult to remove later.
If you want to reinforce the edges, you can temporarily secure them with a straightedge or painter’s tape to hold the glued joints under slight tension overnight. This prevents the edges from lifting again during drying.
Important: For PU or polymer-based construction adhesives, make sure the surfaces to be bonded are at room temperature and can be slightly moist, as this improves curing.
After cleaning and preparing the surface by sanding, I suggest applying the adhesive carefully in small amounts using a toothpick or a thin spatula. This saves a lot of material and prevents excess adhesive, which can be difficult to remove later.
If you want to reinforce the edges, you can temporarily secure them with a straightedge or painter’s tape to hold the glued joints under slight tension overnight. This prevents the edges from lifting again during drying.
Important: For PU or polymer-based construction adhesives, make sure the surfaces to be bonded are at room temperature and can be slightly moist, as this improves curing.