ᐅ Electric window opening as an alternative to a ventilation system?
Created on: 28 Jul 2014 11:17
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christianmarxC
christianmarx28 Jul 2014 11:17Hello dear forum community,
this is our first post in this forum.
We will be building soon (townhouse, 140 sqm (1507 sq ft), hipped roof, masonry construction, quiet residential area). We are currently having difficulties deciding on the ventilation system.
We have basically ruled out a central ventilation system because no one can tell us what the condition of the ducts will be like inside after 30 years. Apart from the ongoing maintenance costs for such a system, this feels too uncertain to us. There is a lack of long-term experience here.
We like the decentralized option better, as the entire unit can be removed for thorough cleaning. The downside is the many wall openings (probably 6 for 2 floors, 3 per floor).
Our window supplier therefore suggested windows with parallel opening ventilation. These are burglar-resistant despite being open (resistance class RC2) and can also be equipped with an electric drive, allowing them to open automatically according to settings (random mode, every 10 minutes, every 30 minutes, etc.). This window ventilation meets the requirements for user-independent ventilation according to DIN 1946-6 and has been tested by the Fraunhofer Institute. Of course, we are aware that this option results in energy loss (no heat recovery).
What do you think? Has anyone installed this before and can share their experience?
We look forward to your opinions!
Best regards,
christianmarx
this is our first post in this forum.
We will be building soon (townhouse, 140 sqm (1507 sq ft), hipped roof, masonry construction, quiet residential area). We are currently having difficulties deciding on the ventilation system.
We have basically ruled out a central ventilation system because no one can tell us what the condition of the ducts will be like inside after 30 years. Apart from the ongoing maintenance costs for such a system, this feels too uncertain to us. There is a lack of long-term experience here.
We like the decentralized option better, as the entire unit can be removed for thorough cleaning. The downside is the many wall openings (probably 6 for 2 floors, 3 per floor).
Our window supplier therefore suggested windows with parallel opening ventilation. These are burglar-resistant despite being open (resistance class RC2) and can also be equipped with an electric drive, allowing them to open automatically according to settings (random mode, every 10 minutes, every 30 minutes, etc.). This window ventilation meets the requirements for user-independent ventilation according to DIN 1946-6 and has been tested by the Fraunhofer Institute. Of course, we are aware that this option results in energy loss (no heat recovery).
What do you think? Has anyone installed this before and can share their experience?
We look forward to your opinions!
Best regards,
christianmarx
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Doc.Schnaggls28 Jul 2014 12:40Hello Christian,
At first, I had similar concerns to yours regarding the condition of the ductwork in a ventilation system.
However, since we have a club member who works full-time in servicing ventilation systems, I had a detailed discussion with him.
The outcome of this conversation was the decision to go with a controlled ventilation system with heat recovery.
Reasons:
- Fresh air only enters the house through a fine filter, which we can easily replace ourselves. This way, the fresh air ducts stay clean automatically. We will not get these filters from the ventilation system manufacturer but buy them as fabric by the meter from a hardware store (from the same manufacturer) and cut them precisely using a template and a utility knife – this saves about 90% of the cost of filter material and also allows us to replace them more frequently if needed. With this approach, a preventive disinfection every 10 years is recommended, which costs about 350 EUR.
- The exhaust air ducts may get dirty inside, but since they only carry air out of the house, these dirt deposits (mainly grease from the kitchen if a good recirculating hood is not used) are not critical.
The option you described personally gives me some concerns. On the one hand, it involves several electric motors and mechanical parts that are potentially failure-prone.
On the other hand, I would also personally worry about weatherproofing during heavy rain, especially if the system insists on opening windows exactly at that time.
Regards,
Dirk
At first, I had similar concerns to yours regarding the condition of the ductwork in a ventilation system.
However, since we have a club member who works full-time in servicing ventilation systems, I had a detailed discussion with him.
The outcome of this conversation was the decision to go with a controlled ventilation system with heat recovery.
Reasons:
- Fresh air only enters the house through a fine filter, which we can easily replace ourselves. This way, the fresh air ducts stay clean automatically. We will not get these filters from the ventilation system manufacturer but buy them as fabric by the meter from a hardware store (from the same manufacturer) and cut them precisely using a template and a utility knife – this saves about 90% of the cost of filter material and also allows us to replace them more frequently if needed. With this approach, a preventive disinfection every 10 years is recommended, which costs about 350 EUR.
- The exhaust air ducts may get dirty inside, but since they only carry air out of the house, these dirt deposits (mainly grease from the kitchen if a good recirculating hood is not used) are not critical.
The option you described personally gives me some concerns. On the one hand, it involves several electric motors and mechanical parts that are potentially failure-prone.
On the other hand, I would also personally worry about weatherproofing during heavy rain, especially if the system insists on opening windows exactly at that time.
Regards,
Dirk
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christianmarx28 Jul 2014 13:28Thank you for the initial responses!
The amount of air exchange, and thus the number of windows that need to be equipped with an electric shut-off, is (we were told) calculated based on a ventilation concept. This concept has not been provided yet.
What I really like about the windows (whether electric or not) is that from the outside you cannot tell if they are open or closed, and that when the window is open, it still meets resistance class RC2. So, you can leave the windows open when you go away.
Heavy rain with an open window is not an issue because there is a drainage channel made of plastic integrated at the bottom that leads water outside.
The amount of air exchange, and thus the number of windows that need to be equipped with an electric shut-off, is (we were told) calculated based on a ventilation concept. This concept has not been provided yet.
What I really like about the windows (whether electric or not) is that from the outside you cannot tell if they are open or closed, and that when the window is open, it still meets resistance class RC2. So, you can leave the windows open when you go away.
Heavy rain with an open window is not an issue because there is a drainage channel made of plastic integrated at the bottom that leads water outside.
T
toxicmolotof28 Jul 2014 14:19A window where you can’t see from the outside whether it is open? Interesting. Are there any example photos showing how an unopened and an opened window look?
What’s the use of a drainage channel if the wind pressure blows the water into the house? I wouldn’t be completely convinced either if there is no weather/rain sensor.
What’s the use of a drainage channel if the wind pressure blows the water into the house? I wouldn’t be completely convinced either if there is no weather/rain sensor.
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Doc.Schnaggls28 Jul 2014 14:33I looked at the website of the manufacturer I suspect (Winkhaus), but unfortunately did not find any clear images for me (especially from the outside).
Just like toxicmolotow, I see the problem with rain caused by the resulting wind pressure – our windows, which are now 13 years old, already have a drainage channel that directs the water outward, but it doesn’t help if the wind blows the water inside.
If the window sash is moved inward by 6mm (about 1/4 inch) in the ventilation position, it might appear closed from a distance greater than 2m (about 6.5 feet) – however, if I stand directly in front of it, I can still see the gap between the window sash and the frame.
Just like toxicmolotow, I see the problem with rain caused by the resulting wind pressure – our windows, which are now 13 years old, already have a drainage channel that directs the water outward, but it doesn’t help if the wind blows the water inside.
If the window sash is moved inward by 6mm (about 1/4 inch) in the ventilation position, it might appear closed from a distance greater than 2m (about 6.5 feet) – however, if I stand directly in front of it, I can still see the gap between the window sash and the frame.
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