ᐅ Controlled residential ventilation / DIBt-certified stove / pressure monitor
Created on: 16 Jul 2013 09:23
P
PhoenixDH
Hello everyone,
we are planning to build a prefabricated house meeting the KfW 70 standard.
The house will be heated primarily with a gas/solar (water) system, partly with underfloor heating and partly with conventional radiators.
In addition, a controlled residential ventilation system with heat recovery will be integrated.
We also want to install a stove, since the heat from a stove has a different character.
I am familiar with the technical requirements from my chimney sweep.
This means the stove must be room-air independent and ideally certified by DIBt.
However, as is often the case, the stove we have chosen is room-air independent but does not have DIBt certification.
According to my information, a pressure monitor must then be installed, which shuts off the controlled ventilation system if the negative pressure becomes too high.
My question now is: what does such a pressure monitor look like and how is it installed?
Where does it measure? I assume in the room where the stove is located, but where else?
Does it measure outside? If so, how can I route the sensor outside?
Retrofitting a penetration to the outside later would be problematic due to airtightness concerns.
Can someone bring me up to date on this?
By the way: the range hood will be recirculating and can be disregarded.
Thank you very much!
we are planning to build a prefabricated house meeting the KfW 70 standard.
The house will be heated primarily with a gas/solar (water) system, partly with underfloor heating and partly with conventional radiators.
In addition, a controlled residential ventilation system with heat recovery will be integrated.
We also want to install a stove, since the heat from a stove has a different character.
I am familiar with the technical requirements from my chimney sweep.
This means the stove must be room-air independent and ideally certified by DIBt.
However, as is often the case, the stove we have chosen is room-air independent but does not have DIBt certification.
According to my information, a pressure monitor must then be installed, which shuts off the controlled ventilation system if the negative pressure becomes too high.
My question now is: what does such a pressure monitor look like and how is it installed?
Where does it measure? I assume in the room where the stove is located, but where else?
Does it measure outside? If so, how can I route the sensor outside?
Retrofitting a penetration to the outside later would be problematic due to airtightness concerns.
Can someone bring me up to date on this?
By the way: the range hood will be recirculating and can be disregarded.
Thank you very much!
N
nordanney18 Oct 2013 14:50For exhaust air systems, it is essential to install a safety device—such as an air pressure switch or window contact sensor.
For recirculation systems, we are currently having an ongoing discussion.
For recirculation systems, we are currently having an ongoing discussion.
nordanney schrieb:
The chimney inspector sees it differently. A pressure monitor is only necessary if the controlled residential ventilation system cannot maintain a negative pressure greater than 8 Pa. This is the recommendation that has been issued to all chimney inspectors in this country. It is a recommendation, not a requirement! Unfortunately, the chimney inspector has the final say.Chimney inspectors have at best a paper-based authority. They cannot simply override the fundamental laws of physics!Best regards
The DIBt approval ensures that the mechanical ventilation system cannot pull air from the chimney.
If you open a stove with an LDW (air quality sensor), nothing happens—exactly—because the LDW cannot detect that the stove is open.
However, the LDW does recognize when a cooker hood is running and exhausting large amounts of air.
In my opinion, it doesn’t make much sense to first create an airtight house with mechanical ventilation and then lose all the warm air through the "window" via the cooker hood and exhaust.
Best regards
If you open a stove with an LDW (air quality sensor), nothing happens—exactly—because the LDW cannot detect that the stove is open.
However, the LDW does recognize when a cooker hood is running and exhausting large amounts of air.
In my opinion, it doesn’t make much sense to first create an airtight house with mechanical ventilation and then lose all the warm air through the "window" via the cooker hood and exhaust.
Best regards
N
nordanney18 Oct 2013 19:28Milambar schrieb:
So the DIBt approval ensures that the mechanical ventilation system cannot draw air from the chimney.That is not entirely correct. The DIBt approval only certifies that the fireplace is airtight up to a certain negative pressure. If I remember correctly, this is 12 or 14 Pa. For example, if the supply air stops working and the mechanical ventilation system continues to extract air, we could have a problem – at least, that is the chimney sweep’s argument.But if your stove's fresh air supply is sealed off, it won’t ignite either.
If the fresh air supply of our mechanical ventilation with heat recovery is blocked, an error message appears and the system shuts down.
So why buy an expensive mechanical ventilation unit when all safety requirements are already met?
As I said, it’s fine for exhaust fans with ducting, but otherwise it’s useless.
And ypg… you wouldn’t buy car insurance for a Bentley if you only drive a Polo.
If the fresh air supply of our mechanical ventilation with heat recovery is blocked, an error message appears and the system shuts down.
So why buy an expensive mechanical ventilation unit when all safety requirements are already met?
As I said, it’s fine for exhaust fans with ducting, but otherwise it’s useless.
And ypg… you wouldn’t buy car insurance for a Bentley if you only drive a Polo.
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