Hi all,
During our house construction, the lighting planning unfortunately got completely overlooked. It’s become so annoying that we now want to tackle this topic. In the living area, we have several circuits and the "basic lighting" realized with 24V Tunable White. At first glance, you’ll notice that it’s just a "dim light" and absolutely insufficient in brightness.
My idea was to double the number of TW spots and replace them with stronger ones. There are 180mm (7 inch) Halox P boxes installed in the concrete ceiling, currently with a 68mm (2.7 inch) hole for the spots. Initially, I thought about double attachment spots, but I’ve now come back to recessed ceiling lights. The SLV New Tria 68 two-light fixture looks good to me at first glance. It should fit just about into the Halox box.
Questions:
- Do you have a different idea, or is this approach reasonable?
- In the kitchen, we have regular spots above the cooktop island, as these are brighter than the TW. Should we replace those as well for aesthetic reasons? Otherwise, it would be a different modular carrier.
- Especially in the living room, the TW lighting (4 spots covering >20m² (215 sq ft)) is clearly underdimensioned. We also have 3 additional ceiling outlets in the middle, currently with three Nordlux Aver pendants hanging. Is there a better idea than leaving the pendant lights there?
- Is it possible to make a clean rectangular cutout in the drywall for the Halox box? If yes, what’s the best method? I’ve often read about using a keyhole saw or jigsaw.
Attached is the plan to better understand the text.
Looking forward to your ideas.
Best regards and thanks
During our house construction, the lighting planning unfortunately got completely overlooked. It’s become so annoying that we now want to tackle this topic. In the living area, we have several circuits and the "basic lighting" realized with 24V Tunable White. At first glance, you’ll notice that it’s just a "dim light" and absolutely insufficient in brightness.
My idea was to double the number of TW spots and replace them with stronger ones. There are 180mm (7 inch) Halox P boxes installed in the concrete ceiling, currently with a 68mm (2.7 inch) hole for the spots. Initially, I thought about double attachment spots, but I’ve now come back to recessed ceiling lights. The SLV New Tria 68 two-light fixture looks good to me at first glance. It should fit just about into the Halox box.
Questions:
- Do you have a different idea, or is this approach reasonable?
- In the kitchen, we have regular spots above the cooktop island, as these are brighter than the TW. Should we replace those as well for aesthetic reasons? Otherwise, it would be a different modular carrier.
- Especially in the living room, the TW lighting (4 spots covering >20m² (215 sq ft)) is clearly underdimensioned. We also have 3 additional ceiling outlets in the middle, currently with three Nordlux Aver pendants hanging. Is there a better idea than leaving the pendant lights there?
- Is it possible to make a clean rectangular cutout in the drywall for the Halox box? If yes, what’s the best method? I’ve often read about using a keyhole saw or jigsaw.
Attached is the plan to better understand the text.
Looking forward to your ideas.
Best regards and thanks
Too dark,
for example, Paulmann has YouTube tutorials showing the required light levels in lumens per m² for living, dining, bathroom, and kitchen areas. This means function comes before design, not the other way around as in your case.
Calculate the total necessary light.
In our similar-sized room, we have 12,000 lumens, divided into 4 main areas, all dimmable.
for example, Paulmann has YouTube tutorials showing the required light levels in lumens per m² for living, dining, bathroom, and kitchen areas. This means function comes before design, not the other way around as in your case.
Calculate the total necessary light.
In our similar-sized room, we have 12,000 lumens, divided into 4 main areas, all dimmable.
Nida35a schrieb:
Too dark,
for example, Paulmann has YouTube tutorials showing the required light levels in lumens per m² for living rooms, dining areas, bathrooms, kitchens—that means function comes before design, not the other way around like in your case.
Calculate the total required light.
We have a similar room size, 12,000 lumens, 4 main zones, all dimmable. I can’t really make sense of your reply. The house is already built, and we have been living in it for over a year.
The lights will remain tunable white, controlled via a KNX LED controller.
Do you have any specific suggestions regarding the lighting fixtures?
rick2018 schrieb:
For the cutout, I can recommend the Fein Multimaster.
I can’t say anything about the planned spotlights. Thanks, good tip :-)