ᐅ Air-to-Water Heat Pump: Icing Up, Noisy, Continuous Operation?
Created on: 29 Nov 2016 13:26
D
dertutnix
Hello,
I am new to this topic and have a few questions:
We are currently in the final phase of building our house and have received our heating system (still connected to construction power). The building is currently being "dried out."
Points that I am not satisfied with at the moment:
1. Unfortunately, the outdoor unit was installed on the house wall and not decoupled as discussed (the plan was to place it on the garage or in front/next to the house). What can still be done to fix this? As is often the case: nothing was documented in writing.
2. What I have noticed: the side vent of the outdoor unit is partially frozen at 8-13°C (46-55°F) or completely iced over at the moment, with temperatures of 6°C (43°F) or lower down to -5°C (23°F). I have not yet seen the defrost function "in action," but I am only on site for a few hours to talk to the contractors or ventilate. In the settings (which I have only briefly looked at), I only see "99% load" and the second heat source is "active" continuously. Is that normal? The room temperature is currently set to 24°C (75°F), and it is around that temperature as well.
3. I find the outdoor unit very loud and I am worried that this might cause issues with my neighbor. For example, I can feel vibrations throughout the house, I can hear the outdoor unit upstairs, and it is not very quiet outside either. The fan runs almost continuously at a high level, and the system rarely slows down. It is annoying.
The plumber has already come and adjusted something (I don’t know what exactly), and the manufacturer’s service has also been on site. So far, it has not helped much.
House information:
KFW55 city villa, 140 sqm (1,507 sq ft), detached, 24cm (9.5 inch) lightweight concrete with 18cm (7 inch) external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS), decentralized ventilation (Inventer), air-to-water heat pump (Weishaupt WWP L 7 AERS with 200-liter (53 gallons) domestic hot water tank), underfloor heating throughout, outdoor unit directly next to the utility room.
I hope you can provide some guidance, as I have been following this forum for a while.
I am new to this topic and have a few questions:
We are currently in the final phase of building our house and have received our heating system (still connected to construction power). The building is currently being "dried out."
Points that I am not satisfied with at the moment:
1. Unfortunately, the outdoor unit was installed on the house wall and not decoupled as discussed (the plan was to place it on the garage or in front/next to the house). What can still be done to fix this? As is often the case: nothing was documented in writing.
2. What I have noticed: the side vent of the outdoor unit is partially frozen at 8-13°C (46-55°F) or completely iced over at the moment, with temperatures of 6°C (43°F) or lower down to -5°C (23°F). I have not yet seen the defrost function "in action," but I am only on site for a few hours to talk to the contractors or ventilate. In the settings (which I have only briefly looked at), I only see "99% load" and the second heat source is "active" continuously. Is that normal? The room temperature is currently set to 24°C (75°F), and it is around that temperature as well.
3. I find the outdoor unit very loud and I am worried that this might cause issues with my neighbor. For example, I can feel vibrations throughout the house, I can hear the outdoor unit upstairs, and it is not very quiet outside either. The fan runs almost continuously at a high level, and the system rarely slows down. It is annoying.
The plumber has already come and adjusted something (I don’t know what exactly), and the manufacturer’s service has also been on site. So far, it has not helped much.
House information:
KFW55 city villa, 140 sqm (1,507 sq ft), detached, 24cm (9.5 inch) lightweight concrete with 18cm (7 inch) external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS), decentralized ventilation (Inventer), air-to-water heat pump (Weishaupt WWP L 7 AERS with 200-liter (53 gallons) domestic hot water tank), underfloor heating throughout, outdoor unit directly next to the utility room.
I hope you can provide some guidance, as I have been following this forum for a while.
So, sorry for my wording, I’m not a pro in the “house building” area:
1. I mean “thousand kW,” the electricity meter only shows kW if I’m correctly informed (at least our digital one, the old one also had decimal places).
2. I’m researching photovoltaic systems, but thanks for the hint anyway, maybe it helps others with the terminology (it’s all kind of colloquially called “solar”).
3. The electricity provider is the local supplier, who charges 18 cents or 19 cents per kWh depending on the contract for heat pump electricity, but I don’t think that will stay like that for long.
4. Yes, I haven’t found it on comparison sites like Check24 or Verivox either (as a comparison provider). But: I just checked, and 6 of the first 7 providers here have prices under 20 cents per kWh, excluding basic fees and so on.
5. I find about 6000 kWh (after subtracting hot water) as a heating value after almost 3 full winters quite good, especially since optimization was done only after the first winter and the screed was partially dried with it, so that’s around 2000 kWh per year on average. I know some who have worse values.
1. I mean “thousand kW,” the electricity meter only shows kW if I’m correctly informed (at least our digital one, the old one also had decimal places).
2. I’m researching photovoltaic systems, but thanks for the hint anyway, maybe it helps others with the terminology (it’s all kind of colloquially called “solar”).
3. The electricity provider is the local supplier, who charges 18 cents or 19 cents per kWh depending on the contract for heat pump electricity, but I don’t think that will stay like that for long.
4. Yes, I haven’t found it on comparison sites like Check24 or Verivox either (as a comparison provider). But: I just checked, and 6 of the first 7 providers here have prices under 20 cents per kWh, excluding basic fees and so on.
5. I find about 6000 kWh (after subtracting hot water) as a heating value after almost 3 full winters quite good, especially since optimization was done only after the first winter and the screed was partially dried with it, so that’s around 2000 kWh per year on average. I know some who have worse values.