ᐅ Air-to-Water Heat Pump: Icing Up, Noisy, Continuous Operation?
Created on: 29 Nov 2016 13:26
D
dertutnix
Hello,
I am new to this topic and have a few questions:
We are currently in the final phase of building our house and have received our heating system (still connected to construction power). The building is currently being "dried out."
Points that I am not satisfied with at the moment:
1. Unfortunately, the outdoor unit was installed on the house wall and not decoupled as discussed (the plan was to place it on the garage or in front/next to the house). What can still be done to fix this? As is often the case: nothing was documented in writing.
2. What I have noticed: the side vent of the outdoor unit is partially frozen at 8-13°C (46-55°F) or completely iced over at the moment, with temperatures of 6°C (43°F) or lower down to -5°C (23°F). I have not yet seen the defrost function "in action," but I am only on site for a few hours to talk to the contractors or ventilate. In the settings (which I have only briefly looked at), I only see "99% load" and the second heat source is "active" continuously. Is that normal? The room temperature is currently set to 24°C (75°F), and it is around that temperature as well.
3. I find the outdoor unit very loud and I am worried that this might cause issues with my neighbor. For example, I can feel vibrations throughout the house, I can hear the outdoor unit upstairs, and it is not very quiet outside either. The fan runs almost continuously at a high level, and the system rarely slows down. It is annoying.
The plumber has already come and adjusted something (I don’t know what exactly), and the manufacturer’s service has also been on site. So far, it has not helped much.
House information:
KFW55 city villa, 140 sqm (1,507 sq ft), detached, 24cm (9.5 inch) lightweight concrete with 18cm (7 inch) external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS), decentralized ventilation (Inventer), air-to-water heat pump (Weishaupt WWP L 7 AERS with 200-liter (53 gallons) domestic hot water tank), underfloor heating throughout, outdoor unit directly next to the utility room.
I hope you can provide some guidance, as I have been following this forum for a while.
I am new to this topic and have a few questions:
We are currently in the final phase of building our house and have received our heating system (still connected to construction power). The building is currently being "dried out."
Points that I am not satisfied with at the moment:
1. Unfortunately, the outdoor unit was installed on the house wall and not decoupled as discussed (the plan was to place it on the garage or in front/next to the house). What can still be done to fix this? As is often the case: nothing was documented in writing.
2. What I have noticed: the side vent of the outdoor unit is partially frozen at 8-13°C (46-55°F) or completely iced over at the moment, with temperatures of 6°C (43°F) or lower down to -5°C (23°F). I have not yet seen the defrost function "in action," but I am only on site for a few hours to talk to the contractors or ventilate. In the settings (which I have only briefly looked at), I only see "99% load" and the second heat source is "active" continuously. Is that normal? The room temperature is currently set to 24°C (75°F), and it is around that temperature as well.
3. I find the outdoor unit very loud and I am worried that this might cause issues with my neighbor. For example, I can feel vibrations throughout the house, I can hear the outdoor unit upstairs, and it is not very quiet outside either. The fan runs almost continuously at a high level, and the system rarely slows down. It is annoying.
The plumber has already come and adjusted something (I don’t know what exactly), and the manufacturer’s service has also been on site. So far, it has not helped much.
House information:
KFW55 city villa, 140 sqm (1,507 sq ft), detached, 24cm (9.5 inch) lightweight concrete with 18cm (7 inch) external thermal insulation composite system (ETICS), decentralized ventilation (Inventer), air-to-water heat pump (Weishaupt WWP L 7 AERS with 200-liter (53 gallons) domestic hot water tank), underfloor heating throughout, outdoor unit directly next to the utility room.
I hope you can provide some guidance, as I have been following this forum for a while.
Although it took a while, here is my long-term experience. Everything is still running smoothly, no malfunctions or error messages—just doing its job. There was one external maintenance service carried out; otherwise, I monitor it myself. Once, a technician from the manufacturer came for an inspection and possible optimization.
Currently, after a bit more than 3 years (and 3 winters), the consumption is about 8.2 MWh, of which approximately 2.2 MWh is for hot water (at 18 cents/kWh). I think I can live with that. What do you think?
Everything inside and the outdoor areas are now finished. We are considering adding solar support. We’ll see...
Currently, after a bit more than 3 years (and 3 winters), the consumption is about 8.2 MWh, of which approximately 2.2 MWh is for hot water (at 18 cents/kWh). I think I can live with that. What do you think?
Everything inside and the outdoor areas are now finished. We are considering adding solar support. We’ll see...
D
Daniel-Sp5 Mar 2020 22:45Solar support?
Do you mean solar thermal? Then forget it.
Photovoltaics? Then go ahead.
A heat pump is a low-temperature system, solar thermal is a high-temperature system. Combining them requires installing a mixing valve, which only causes hydraulic issues. If your heat pump is running well now, it’s better not to modify the system. Incidentally, you will hardly save on the investment by adding solar thermal.
Do you mean solar thermal? Then forget it.
Photovoltaics? Then go ahead.
A heat pump is a low-temperature system, solar thermal is a high-temperature system. Combining them requires installing a mixing valve, which only causes hydraulic issues. If your heat pump is running well now, it’s better not to modify the system. Incidentally, you will hardly save on the investment by adding solar thermal.
He writes tkw "thermal kW," which probably does not refer to electricity consumption because that would be extremely high.
But seriously, can you really find electricity providers with a rate of 18 cents? According to Check24 and Verivox, the cheapest in our postal code area is 23 cents.
But seriously, can you really find electricity providers with a rate of 18 cents? According to Check24 and Verivox, the cheapest in our postal code area is 23 cents.
Similar topics