ᐅ New construction without solar panels and without a heat pump— is it possible?

Created on: 1 Mar 2014 11:58
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Panama17
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Panama17
1 Mar 2014 11:58
Hello everyone,
I’m just at the very beginning of planning a house and am slowly starting to learn about the technical aspects, but I have almost no knowledge so far.
At least I already know that there is an Energy Saving Ordinance 2014 that must be followed.

Now my questions:
- Is it possible to build according to the Energy Saving Ordinance without using solar technology and a heat pump?
- Which measures would then likely be absolutely necessary?

I’m asking because I think that solar systems probably wouldn’t make sense for us due to the unfavorable orientation of the building and shading from the neighboring property.
And I’m not keen on a heat pump; we have gas available on our street and I would prefer a heating system based on that.

Basically, about our project: it’s a detached single-family house with approximately 200m2 (2,150 sq ft) of living space over 1.5 to 2 floors plus a full basement. We definitely want to have a fireplace in the living/dining area, but I have no idea if that would be helpful or rather a disadvantage?

Does anyone have literature recommendations? I’d like to study the topic in detail.
Thanks in advance!
Mycraft1 Mar 2014 13:02
How about simply reading through what the energy saving regulation states... but building is most likely possible... however, you will need to plan for a lot of insulation... probably more than 20cm (8 inches) for the walls and even more for the roof... a central controlled ventilation system also helps with this...
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klblb
1 Mar 2014 22:24
Panama17,
yes, such a building is definitely feasible. We are building similarly and achieve a calculated energy standard of about KfW20, which is then classified as KfW40 and thus qualifies for a repayment subsidy of 5,000 euros.
160 sqm (1,722 sq ft) of living space, 1.5 stories without a basement.
Walls are made of 50 cm (20 inches) brick. There are various options regarding manufacturer and material, e.g., aerated concrete from Ytong or Greisel, Poroton bricks from Wienerberger (more expensive), etc.
Insulate the foundation slab and roof well.

Heating is provided by a gas condensing boiler (approx. 8 kW max. output), also used for domestic hot water.

The better-insulated building envelope of course costs more, but still significantly less than the entire plant technology (solar, heat pump, etc.). Additionally, these costs are incurred only once, resulting in overall lower financing expenses and lower gas costs due to the small gas condensing boiler.
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Panama17
2 Mar 2014 09:38
mycraft - hmm. If I could find them, I would have done it already. But when I search online, I always end up with some energy performance certificate stuff. And it doesn’t really say if it’s actually possible or, more importantly, if it makes sense.

klblb - That already sounds promising! So it should probably work with a basement too, right? I didn’t expect that you could even reach a KfW 40 standard with it. What kind of roof do you have?
Walls that are 50cm (20 inches) thick are definitely a lot, but these days it’s hardly possible to go under 36cm (14 inches), if I’m not mistaken. We also have a large building plot, so that wouldn’t be an issue.
There’s already so much technology in the house that needs financing, maintenance, and servicing, so I’d prefer to avoid those components.
I would like to have a ventilation system though, because I almost always keep the windows closed and we both have allergies, so that would really help us. Do you have one?
Mycraft2 Mar 2014 10:14
Yes, I’m not sure... everything is available on the energy saving regulation website, so there’s no need to search long... it took me about 30 seconds.

I have a central ventilation system and believe that a new build meeting the energy saving regulation standard shouldn’t be done without one... and not with a decentralized system, but ONLY with a central system, if you have the option.

No one can stick to ventilation intervals if they’re not at home all the time... furthermore, a lot of energy is lost through window ventilation... and you get fresh, filtered air inside, which should help those with allergies... however, the air will become very dry in winter, so you need to consider whether to use an enthalpy exchanger or maybe humidify the air in another way.

In my opinion, decentralized systems have greater visual and technical disadvantages... but you can do some research; I have already written quite a bit about this.

A chimney slightly increases the cost of the ventilation system because you then need a pressure monitor... also, you will need a recirculating hood in the kitchen. A vented hood is not possible.
emer2 Mar 2014 10:17
A lot of insulation costs a lot of money.

50cm (20 inches) masonry units, gentlemen
When it comes to the roof, it’s not just about buying thicker insulation. The wooden structure also has to support it and be accordingly strong.

In our cost estimate (160m² (1,722ft²) living area, 2 full stories), the difference between T10 and T8 masonry (190m² (2,045ft²) wall area) is almost €6,000 net. And that’s still with a 36.5cm (14 inches) brick.

For such airtight houses, I also consider a controlled ventilation system necessary. And that is not cheap either.

I think you can definitely overdo insulation.

It continues with the windows.

The concept of “hardcore insulation” has to be applied consistently throughout all parts of the building. It doesn’t make sense to use a super-efficient wall unit and then just glazed windows because the budget ran out.

I once read that a low-energy house is 20 to 25 percent more expensive compared to a “KfW100” standard house.

And, to also answer the question: much is possible, it’s all a question of costs. And if the budget is not flexible, it’s usually one of the first items to be cut. Especially once you have the additional costs in front of you and start calculating how long it will take to save that money back. On top of that, if the financing has to be larger because of it, then it’s over.

My opinion: what’s the point of paying the bank €200 (around $220) more every month for 30, 25, or 20 years if you only save €75 (around $80) on energy costs?

And then it’s time for a new heating system, windows, or roof again anyway...