Hi. I have no knowledge about satellite dishes and electrical work, so I will have a professional install the dish soon.
Right now, I am in the process of ordering the "materials." The dish will be mounted on the roof. We have already received the special roof tile from the construction company. The antenna cables will be routed and connected in the attic and then distributed to the rooms from there.
I had chosen the following dish:
DUR-line Select 85cm/90cm (33in/35in) Anthracite Satellite Dish - 3 x Test + Very Good + Aluminum Satellite Reflector
Along with this LNB + multiband switch:
DUR-line Ultra Quattro LNB - only for multiswitch, black - with LTE filter
DUR-line MS 5/8 Blue eco power-saving multiswitch - for 8 satellite users/TVs - no power supply needed - 0 Watt standby multiswitch [Digital, HDTV, FullHD, 4K, UHD]
Questions:
1. If I understand the dish description and questions in the reviews correctly, no roof mast or rafter mount is included. So I would need those separately, right? How about this one:
PremiumX Basic X120-48 Satellite TV rafter mount with 120cm (47in) galvanized steel mast, rafter bracket for satellite antenna satellite dish | Cable entry mast cap 10 coax cables
2. And I would also need cable and a grounding block, correct?
50m (164ft) PremiumX Deluxe PRO coaxial cable BLACK 135dB 5-fold shielded, pure copper satellite antenna cable 50m (164ft) 135dB 10x F connectors gold-plated 8.0mm (0.31in)
DUR-line grounding block DEB 9-way made of high-quality cast - shielding > 90 dB - SAT/cable/FM/DVB-T
3. Do people still need an antenna for radio reception nowadays? Doesn’t everything run mostly over the internet now? If yes, what type of antenna should I get and what else should I consider?
Right now, I am in the process of ordering the "materials." The dish will be mounted on the roof. We have already received the special roof tile from the construction company. The antenna cables will be routed and connected in the attic and then distributed to the rooms from there.
I had chosen the following dish:
DUR-line Select 85cm/90cm (33in/35in) Anthracite Satellite Dish - 3 x Test + Very Good + Aluminum Satellite Reflector
Along with this LNB + multiband switch:
DUR-line Ultra Quattro LNB - only for multiswitch, black - with LTE filter
DUR-line MS 5/8 Blue eco power-saving multiswitch - for 8 satellite users/TVs - no power supply needed - 0 Watt standby multiswitch [Digital, HDTV, FullHD, 4K, UHD]
Questions:
1. If I understand the dish description and questions in the reviews correctly, no roof mast or rafter mount is included. So I would need those separately, right? How about this one:
PremiumX Basic X120-48 Satellite TV rafter mount with 120cm (47in) galvanized steel mast, rafter bracket for satellite antenna satellite dish | Cable entry mast cap 10 coax cables
2. And I would also need cable and a grounding block, correct?
50m (164ft) PremiumX Deluxe PRO coaxial cable BLACK 135dB 5-fold shielded, pure copper satellite antenna cable 50m (164ft) 135dB 10x F connectors gold-plated 8.0mm (0.31in)
DUR-line grounding block DEB 9-way made of high-quality cast - shielding > 90 dB - SAT/cable/FM/DVB-T
3. Do people still need an antenna for radio reception nowadays? Doesn’t everything run mostly over the internet now? If yes, what type of antenna should I get and what else should I consider?
Golfi90 schrieb:
Mostly finished.
Just need to connect the 16mm² (0.025 inch²) cable from the equipotential bonding at the distribution block and continue it to the antenna mast.Not 16 mm diameter, but 16 mm² (0.025 inch²) cross-sectional area.The grounding conductor made of 16 mm² (0.025 inch²) copper, whether solid and heavy or flexible stranded type (which is harder to fix), must be connected at the antenna support using Class H connectors certified for 100 kA with the wire type used, such as
- band clamping bracket DEHN 540 103, OEM also KATHREIN ZEU 168
- band clamping bracket PRÖPSTER 111 393
At the grounding conductor’s base point, a lightning protection equipotential terminal block (HES) with tension clamps and connection to a compliant grounding electrode is also required unless this is going to be one of the unfortunately common cosmetic grounding installations with questionable lightning current capacity.
If your fingers have survived the abuse from technically outdated screw-on F connectors, the LNB cables should be arranged in a loop, since these connectors are very hard to remove otherwise. For the next antenna installation, use finger-friendly connectors that meet current technical standards or at least a tool to assist with screwing on.
Once again, explained simply please...
So I have to run the 16mm² (0.021 sq inch) cable directly to the antenna mast. That part is clear.
But how do I properly ground the other components? Unfortunately, I didn’t quite understand that.
I thought this distribution block was specifically designed to distribute the grounding...
By the way, is this thin grounding cable sufficient at all? Or would a thicker grounding cable (4mm² / 0.006 sq inch) be better?
So I have to run the 16mm² (0.021 sq inch) cable directly to the antenna mast. That part is clear.
But how do I properly ground the other components? Unfortunately, I didn’t quite understand that.
I thought this distribution block was specifically designed to distribute the grounding...
By the way, is this thin grounding cable sufficient at all? Or would a thicker grounding cable (4mm² / 0.006 sq inch) be better?
Golfi90 schrieb:
So I have to run the 16mm2 cable directly to the antenna mast. That part is clear. Well, at least that’s something!
Golfi90 schrieb:
How do I properly ground the other components then?
I thought this distribution block was specifically meant to distribute the grounding...
By the way, is this thin grounding cable sufficient? Or would a thicker grounding cable (4mm2) be better? Now it’s getting completely confusing. Thick should only refer to a 16mm² lightning current-capable grounding conductor, and thin to a 4mm² equipotential bonding conductor, right?
Final attempt with an illustrated diagram showing the 4mm² copper conductor in color as the equipotential bonding (EP) conductor. Grounding conductors, as well as lightning protection down conductors, should primarily run vertically and as directly as possible to the main grounding electrode system (GES), with horizontal loops preferably placed at or below ground level. Grounding and equipotential bonding are integral parts of the electrical installation and, according to NAV § 13, installation work must be performed by licensed electricians.
If the main earthing system (MES) is not lightning current-capable as usual, don’t even consider replacing it yourself—you don’t have the required expertise. Finding a qualified electrician who knows that the MES must be lightning current-capable is nowadays not an easy task either.
Could you please explain it in simple terms without using any technical jargon that only experts know? That way, it would be clear what you mean without having to ask silly follow-up questions. Instead, you try to make it as complicated as possible... Good grief. Your graphic is helpful to me. Thank you.
Ippebson schrieb:
Is it allowed to attach the 16 mm² (0.021 in²) grounding conductor and the 4 mm² (0.0062 in²) PE conductor together with one clamp on the antenna mast, or do they require two separate clamps? Grounding is a fire protection measure, while equipotential bonding is intended to protect against electric shock.
Since there is no clamp on the market certified for 100 kA that is designed for both 16 mm² (0.021 in²) copper and 4 mm² (0.0062 in²) copper conductors, a second connection point is required. With some practical skills, the 4 mm² (0.0062 in²) copper conductor can also be connected in compliance with standards using a cable lug or a threaded screw.