ᐅ Control of Ventilation Systems in Single-Family Homes

Created on: 22 Jun 2018 11:47
M
Meister_Lampe
M
Meister_Lampe
22 Jun 2018 11:47
Hello,

Is there a ventilation system that allows the airflow in the rooms to be easily adjusted?

From our perspective, it makes little sense to constantly exhaust warm air from the bathroom when no one is using it. Therefore, we thought it might be possible to simply reduce the airflow there and then, after showering, press a button to increase the airflow for 30 minutes.

Does anyone know of manufacturers offering systems that can do something like this, or is it not practical?

We also want to have significantly different temperatures within the house, and the ventilation can only distribute one temperature. That would have to be the coldest one, right?
For example, if we extract warm air at 24°C (75°F) from the bathroom and use heat recovery to warm up the outside air to 16°C (61°F) for the pantry temperature, then we would need to add about 8°C (14°F) again via underfloor heating in the bathroom.
That’s why it would make sense for us to reduce airflow there when it’s not necessary.

I hope I was able to clearly explain our concern.
N
niri09
22 Jun 2018 11:59
You currently have or are planning a central ventilation system, correct?
M
Meister_Lampe
22 Jun 2018 12:20
Yes, so far we are planning a central system.
N
niri09
22 Jun 2018 12:36
Okay, sorry, I can't help with that. We are planning a decentralized...
H
haydee
22 Jun 2018 12:46
That’s not possible. Supply air and exhaust air must always be balanced to the same volume; otherwise, you create pressure differences.
If you reduce the exhaust airflow in the bathroom, you must also reduce the supply airflow proportionally in the bedrooms, for example.

What you can do is avoid distributing the exhaust air volume strictly according to floor area. For instance, we have the same exhaust airflow in the bathroom as in the utility room, even though the bathroom is twice as large. The utility room has the highest exhaust volume and is still the warmest room.

You won’t be able to keep the pantry at 16°C (61°F) while heating the adjacent room to 24°C (75°F). I wouldn’t supply any fresh air directly to the pantry at all.

You can slightly lower the temperature by adjusting the supply air volume. Instead of 30 m² (320 ft²) of supply air in the bedroom—the calculated amount needed to reach a certain temperature—you provide only 20 m² (215 ft²) of supply air, and switch off the underfloor heating.
andimann22 Jun 2018 14:14
Hello,

to keep it brief, you’re worrying about problems that don’t exist.

· A pantry is a room with exhaust ventilation, so the issue of 16°C (61°F) cold supply air does not arise.

· You won’t experience temperature swings between 16 and 24°C (61 and 75°F) inside the house anyway. In our home, even the basement stays no colder than 18°C (64°F). If you want to store potatoes, you’ll need to keep them in the refrigerator. That’s just how it is in an insulated house.

· The heat transfer through the ventilation system inside the house is relatively low because the volume of air moved is simply too small. The ventilation system moves only about one-third the air volume of a kitchen exhaust hood—and that’s distributed throughout the entire house!

· You can easily create temperature differences of a few degrees within the house. In our case, bedrooms are just under 20°C (68°F), the bathroom is 23°C (73°F), and the living room is 22°C (72°F)—all with a constant supply air temperature. As mentioned, the heat content in the supply air is negligible compared to the heating output of the underfloor heating.

· In my opinion, it’s not worth the effort to install buttons that temporarily increase the system’s output. For example, our system runs in the morning for 2 hours at a slightly higher speed on a fixed schedule and otherwise operates 24/7 constantly at level 1. That’s sufficient and works well. If you want something that removes steam from the bathroom air within 3 minutes, you need an extractor with the capacity of a kitchen exhaust hood. A controlled ventilation system doesn’t move enough air to achieve that quickly. Or you can simply open the window for 2 minutes like people used to do back in the day.

· The only useful control is a central option to switch the system off for 2 to 4 hours, for example when the ventilation temporarily sucks in odors from the grill, fireplace, open fire, or a neighbor’s farmyard. No matter how cleverly you position the air intake, this will happen from time to time depending on wind direction.

Best regards,

Andreas

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