ᐅ Vinyl Flooring in Kitchen Installed Over Tiles with Leveling Adjustment to Hallway?
Created on: 15 Apr 2017 16:35
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busmasterB
busmaster15 Apr 2017 16:35Hello,
we want to install a vinyl floor over porcelain tiles in the kitchen. Ideally, glued vinyl. The problem is the height difference to the hallway is about 16mm (0.6 inches), which we want to level with the flooring. There is no underfloor heating, and we want a good impact sound and thermal insulation layer. It should be a dry construction, no screed or similar!
Here’s how I arrive at my 16mm (0.6 inches):
Option 1:
OSB 1.2mm (0.05 inches) + self-adhesive impact sound insulation 2mm (0.08 inches) + glued vinyl tiles 2mm (0.08 inches)
Is it okay to lay OSB boards loosely on tiles for impact sound purposes?
Option 2:
Impact sound insulation panels 5mm (0.2 inches) + self-adhesive impact sound insulation 5mm (0.2 inches) + click vinyl tiles 5mm (0.2 inches)
I’m a bit skeptical about layering the impact sound insulation. I definitely want to avoid gaps opening in the joints with click vinyl.
Maybe you have some other ideas?
we want to install a vinyl floor over porcelain tiles in the kitchen. Ideally, glued vinyl. The problem is the height difference to the hallway is about 16mm (0.6 inches), which we want to level with the flooring. There is no underfloor heating, and we want a good impact sound and thermal insulation layer. It should be a dry construction, no screed or similar!
Here’s how I arrive at my 16mm (0.6 inches):
Option 1:
OSB 1.2mm (0.05 inches) + self-adhesive impact sound insulation 2mm (0.08 inches) + glued vinyl tiles 2mm (0.08 inches)
Is it okay to lay OSB boards loosely on tiles for impact sound purposes?
Option 2:
Impact sound insulation panels 5mm (0.2 inches) + self-adhesive impact sound insulation 5mm (0.2 inches) + click vinyl tiles 5mm (0.2 inches)
I’m a bit skeptical about layering the impact sound insulation. I definitely want to avoid gaps opening in the joints with click vinyl.
Maybe you have some other ideas?
Hello "busmaster".
If you glue PVC planks directly onto tiles (in this case, porcelain stoneware tiles), you will always (!) have to live with the grout lines showing through on the surface. This installation method is not considered a recognized professional standard for good reason.
I am not aware of 1.2mm thick OSB boards from practical experience. Such a thickness cannot exist because it is too thin. The minimum thickness for OSB boards due to manufacturing constraints is 6mm.
The alternative construction method you proposed might meet the basic understanding of a technical layperson, but it will not lead to success in any of the other variants!
The correct approach would be:
- Remove 1 or 2 rows of boards in front of door openings,
- Thoroughly clean the entire tile surface,
- Level the entire tile surface with at least 2mm (0.08 inches) of filler, and
- Build up the areas in front of doorways in a ramp shape so that the PVC planks later connect flush and level with the hallway floor.
Anything else will not achieve the expected result!
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Regards, KlaRa
If you glue PVC planks directly onto tiles (in this case, porcelain stoneware tiles), you will always (!) have to live with the grout lines showing through on the surface. This installation method is not considered a recognized professional standard for good reason.
I am not aware of 1.2mm thick OSB boards from practical experience. Such a thickness cannot exist because it is too thin. The minimum thickness for OSB boards due to manufacturing constraints is 6mm.
The alternative construction method you proposed might meet the basic understanding of a technical layperson, but it will not lead to success in any of the other variants!
The correct approach would be:
- Remove 1 or 2 rows of boards in front of door openings,
- Thoroughly clean the entire tile surface,
- Level the entire tile surface with at least 2mm (0.08 inches) of filler, and
- Build up the areas in front of doorways in a ramp shape so that the PVC planks later connect flush and level with the hallway floor.
Anything else will not achieve the expected result!
------------------------------
Regards, KlaRa
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busmaster15 Apr 2017 18:25Of course, 1.2cm (0.5 inch) OSB was meant, not 1.2mm!!
With OSB boards placed on the tiles, the grout lines definitely won’t show through the vinyl.
The question was whether a dry build-up method is possible.
Before leveling a ramp with filler, I would rather fill the entire floor with self-leveling screed, but I actually wanted to avoid that.
With OSB boards placed on the tiles, the grout lines definitely won’t show through the vinyl.
The question was whether a dry build-up method is possible.
Before leveling a ramp with filler, I would rather fill the entire floor with self-leveling screed, but I actually wanted to avoid that.
busmaster schrieb:
Using OSB boards over the tiles will surely prevent the grout lines from showing through the vinyl Answer:
No, definitely not.
However, due to the hard substrate (the OSB boards), you will experience clicking and hollow sounds when walking on it, as the joints of the OSB boards will reflect those of the porcelain tiles underneath. Based on experience, the dry adhesive of the self-adhesive PVC planks will also not fully perform its function.
That is for sure!
But:
No one can tell you how and on which substrate you must install which floor covering. Our goal here in this forum is only to provide technical guidance in the form of advice, to share our knowledge, and to help prevent damage.
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Good luck: Klaus
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busmaster15 Apr 2017 19:18Ok, thanks for the responses so far.
In summary, it seems best in this case to prime the tiles, then fill with leveling compound, and then apply a fully glued 2mm vinyl flooring directly on top.
Can you tell me which primer I should use for this and which leveling compound would be suitable? The height would be 14mm (0.55 inches) over 6.5 square meters (70 square feet).
In summary, it seems best in this case to prime the tiles, then fill with leveling compound, and then apply a fully glued 2mm vinyl flooring directly on top.
Can you tell me which primer I should use for this and which leveling compound would be suitable? The height would be 14mm (0.55 inches) over 6.5 square meters (70 square feet).
Hello "busmaster".
Read by chance and replying promptly:
No one said that the entire kitchen floor needs to be skim-coated with 14mm thickness! I wrote about approximately 2mm thickness of leveling compound.
Your statement (quote) "The problem now is the height difference to the hallway is about 16mm (...)" means, in my interpretation:
The kitchen floor level is 16mm higher than the hallway.
So we remove 1 or 2 rows of tiles before the transition (depending on their size) and thus gain about 13mm in height.
Subtracting 2.5mm PVC planks, 1.5mm adhesive bed, and 2mm leveling compound, there remains a height difference of 7mm to the hallway from the original 16mm. This height can easily be handled by any transition profile!
There will be no height issues causing "tripping hazards" at the transition.
As a primer (example: Schönox VD) on top of the old tiles, a dispersion-based primer suitable for non-absorbent substrates must be used. Other dispersion-based primers can cause serious damage!
An important prerequisite for a damage-free trade is a prior thorough cleaning with a alkaline deep cleaner.
There are plenty of leveling compounds on the market, whether from Thomsit, Uzin, or Schönox. For the door transition, however, it must be stable (self-leveling compounds cannot be applied ramp-shaped).
Such work as you are planning requires expertise.
Well-meaning advice from those who start with ".. I once also ..." is of little help. Especially since those giving advice later cannot be held liable for bad recommendations, leaving any possible damage solely with you.
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Signing off here for the Easter holidays: Klaus
Read by chance and replying promptly:
No one said that the entire kitchen floor needs to be skim-coated with 14mm thickness! I wrote about approximately 2mm thickness of leveling compound.
Your statement (quote) "The problem now is the height difference to the hallway is about 16mm (...)" means, in my interpretation:
The kitchen floor level is 16mm higher than the hallway.
So we remove 1 or 2 rows of tiles before the transition (depending on their size) and thus gain about 13mm in height.
Subtracting 2.5mm PVC planks, 1.5mm adhesive bed, and 2mm leveling compound, there remains a height difference of 7mm to the hallway from the original 16mm. This height can easily be handled by any transition profile!
There will be no height issues causing "tripping hazards" at the transition.
As a primer (example: Schönox VD) on top of the old tiles, a dispersion-based primer suitable for non-absorbent substrates must be used. Other dispersion-based primers can cause serious damage!
An important prerequisite for a damage-free trade is a prior thorough cleaning with a alkaline deep cleaner.
There are plenty of leveling compounds on the market, whether from Thomsit, Uzin, or Schönox. For the door transition, however, it must be stable (self-leveling compounds cannot be applied ramp-shaped).
Such work as you are planning requires expertise.
Well-meaning advice from those who start with ".. I once also ..." is of little help. Especially since those giving advice later cannot be held liable for bad recommendations, leaving any possible damage solely with you.
----------------------
Signing off here for the Easter holidays: Klaus
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