Hello everyone,
I am planning to purchase an existing property built in the 1960s in the Lower Rhine region.
The proposals from renovation consultants vary widely, from 16cm (6 inches) external insulation all around plus new triple glazing and a complete heating system replacement, to "for now, just insulate the roof, address thermal bridges, and get moisture in the basement under control."
As a layperson, I feel quite confused... I want to renovate as ecologically as possible, meaning I want to make as few changes as necessary while using minimal plastics and toxic materials. I also like the original structure in general (33cm (13 inches) exterior wall: plaster, hollow brick, plaster, solid brick).
The detached, single-story family home with a full basement has just under 140m2 (1507 square feet) of living space, half of which is under the roof. The basement and attic are currently unoccupied.
The oil-fired central heating system is from 1975, with 3 plastic tanks of 1500 liters (400 gallons) each. The radiators are gravity-fed and original, as are all the other technical installations, which will likely need replacement.
The roof is tiled and insulated with mineral wool. I don’t have detailed information yet. Due to an overhanging upper floor ceiling and a south-facing loggia, there are several thermal bridges. The wooden windows are mostly original and single-glazed. In the upper floor, there are some newer windows with double glazing from 1993.
The basement shows signs of swelling plaster and flaking paint above the skirting boards on the exterior walls. About 15 years ago, due to active mining in the area, these walls were supposedly protected throughout the entire neighborhood against moisture intrusion with bitumen sheets or coatings as a preventive measure. The surveyor suspects moisture transport within the plaster on the interior side of the exterior walls and recommends extending the horizontal damp-proof course at skirting board height beyond the plaster layer.
My idea for the renovation is to address the thermal bridges, install new windows with maximum double glazing (matched to the exterior wall’s U-value), and replace the heating system. Possibly re-insulate the roof with cellulose or similar material if the current insulation is insufficient.
Does this approach make sense?
What type of heating supported by the existing wood stove in the living room (currently open and without a water jacket) would you recommend?
The floors are mostly solid wood parquet and tiles in the bathrooms, kitchen, and hallway. The bathrooms will probably need to be replaced as well since they are from the 1960s.
Either stick with oil and install a modern condensing boiler or remove everything, including the tanks, and switch to, for example, radiant heaters?
These are my ideas as a non-professional (I have bought the "Building in Existing Structures - Atlas").
I would also gladly pay for on-site advice, but only if it comes from someone who really knows their stuff and doesn’t just bring insulation value calculations...
THANK YOU in advance!
I am planning to purchase an existing property built in the 1960s in the Lower Rhine region.
The proposals from renovation consultants vary widely, from 16cm (6 inches) external insulation all around plus new triple glazing and a complete heating system replacement, to "for now, just insulate the roof, address thermal bridges, and get moisture in the basement under control."
As a layperson, I feel quite confused... I want to renovate as ecologically as possible, meaning I want to make as few changes as necessary while using minimal plastics and toxic materials. I also like the original structure in general (33cm (13 inches) exterior wall: plaster, hollow brick, plaster, solid brick).
The detached, single-story family home with a full basement has just under 140m2 (1507 square feet) of living space, half of which is under the roof. The basement and attic are currently unoccupied.
The oil-fired central heating system is from 1975, with 3 plastic tanks of 1500 liters (400 gallons) each. The radiators are gravity-fed and original, as are all the other technical installations, which will likely need replacement.
The roof is tiled and insulated with mineral wool. I don’t have detailed information yet. Due to an overhanging upper floor ceiling and a south-facing loggia, there are several thermal bridges. The wooden windows are mostly original and single-glazed. In the upper floor, there are some newer windows with double glazing from 1993.
The basement shows signs of swelling plaster and flaking paint above the skirting boards on the exterior walls. About 15 years ago, due to active mining in the area, these walls were supposedly protected throughout the entire neighborhood against moisture intrusion with bitumen sheets or coatings as a preventive measure. The surveyor suspects moisture transport within the plaster on the interior side of the exterior walls and recommends extending the horizontal damp-proof course at skirting board height beyond the plaster layer.
My idea for the renovation is to address the thermal bridges, install new windows with maximum double glazing (matched to the exterior wall’s U-value), and replace the heating system. Possibly re-insulate the roof with cellulose or similar material if the current insulation is insufficient.
Does this approach make sense?
What type of heating supported by the existing wood stove in the living room (currently open and without a water jacket) would you recommend?
The floors are mostly solid wood parquet and tiles in the bathrooms, kitchen, and hallway. The bathrooms will probably need to be replaced as well since they are from the 1960s.
Either stick with oil and install a modern condensing boiler or remove everything, including the tanks, and switch to, for example, radiant heaters?
These are my ideas as a non-professional (I have bought the "Building in Existing Structures - Atlas").
I would also gladly pay for on-site advice, but only if it comes from someone who really knows their stuff and doesn’t just bring insulation value calculations...
THANK YOU in advance!
K.Brodbeck schrieb:
There is nothing better for an architect than having competent partners, ..... Well, if the architect or building biologist actually has, for example, an MEP planner and energy consultant on board, there is basically nothing to object to. 🙂Best regards