Good morning,
Unfortunately, I couldn’t really find much through the search.. O.o
We were actually leaning towards a solid construction house (massive house).. Yesterday, we had a consultation about a Liv...... house, which is a prefabricated house..
We hadn’t really looked into prefabricated houses before, but wanted to hear what he had to say.
A few interesting points came up, for example, water damage.. Since the area is still classified as a flood zone (there was a major flood here in ’94 and never again since then, plus a retention basin is currently being built, so the flood risk is being downgraded), this topic is not insignificant..
The consultant said: If water damage occurs, you can "simply" remove the affected element, let it dry, and close it up again, and you should be fine.. (I don’t really agree with this, but I’m open to being convinced otherwise), which wouldn’t be the case with a solid construction house..
Additionally, there wouldn’t be geothermal or air-to-water heat pumps with underfloor heating, but rather a so-called "comfort climate heating" system, meaning everything is done through air via the ventilation system (air is heated/cooled using a heat exchanger and distributed into the respective rooms).
Has anyone had experience with this? I know it’s a comparison between apples and oranges.
Thanks =)
Regards
Steven
Unfortunately, I couldn’t really find much through the search.. O.o
We were actually leaning towards a solid construction house (massive house).. Yesterday, we had a consultation about a Liv...... house, which is a prefabricated house..
We hadn’t really looked into prefabricated houses before, but wanted to hear what he had to say.
A few interesting points came up, for example, water damage.. Since the area is still classified as a flood zone (there was a major flood here in ’94 and never again since then, plus a retention basin is currently being built, so the flood risk is being downgraded), this topic is not insignificant..
The consultant said: If water damage occurs, you can "simply" remove the affected element, let it dry, and close it up again, and you should be fine.. (I don’t really agree with this, but I’m open to being convinced otherwise), which wouldn’t be the case with a solid construction house..
Additionally, there wouldn’t be geothermal or air-to-water heat pumps with underfloor heating, but rather a so-called "comfort climate heating" system, meaning everything is done through air via the ventilation system (air is heated/cooled using a heat exchanger and distributed into the respective rooms).
Has anyone had experience with this? I know it’s a comparison between apples and oranges.
Thanks =)
Regards
Steven
haydee schrieb:
Timber frame construction in flood zones?
That would make me nervous.
In my opinion, the frame (solid wood element) can dry out just as well as masonry. But the insulation inside and the utility lines—there, masonry is the better choice in my view. Even the interior plaster is only damaged up to the water level. The cladding in timber frames, like drywall, is destroyed even with 10cm (4 inches) of water.
Heating via air instead of underfloor heating works in passive houses. I would choose that again any time. But in a non-passive house, I would advise against it. If it’s a pure air-to-air heat pump, the operating costs can get quite high. Even in our passive house, there is no pure air-to-air heat pump installed. We have a hybrid system. Hello, I was unable to send a private message. I wanted to ask which company you used to build the passive house?
H
hampshire12 Jul 2019 10:33Hello Steven,
There is no “better” or “worse”; you can build excellent houses from either masonry or timber—or poorly—from both. Much more depends on the builder than on the choice of material.
I’m not a fan of forced-air heating systems. Most houses where I have seen them felt “stuffy.” If you use them, then with controlled humidity monitoring. That involves a lot of technology and is no longer inexpensive. The most pleasant heat for me is radiant heat—like the sun on your skin.
Regarding flooding: Don’t build in a floodplain, or design the house so it can withstand standing in water without damage—that is primarily a design issue, then a materials issue. For high groundwater levels, there are waterproof concrete shells (“white tanks”) for the basement.
There is no “better” or “worse”; you can build excellent houses from either masonry or timber—or poorly—from both. Much more depends on the builder than on the choice of material.
I’m not a fan of forced-air heating systems. Most houses where I have seen them felt “stuffy.” If you use them, then with controlled humidity monitoring. That involves a lot of technology and is no longer inexpensive. The most pleasant heat for me is radiant heat—like the sun on your skin.
Regarding flooding: Don’t build in a floodplain, or design the house so it can withstand standing in water without damage—that is primarily a design issue, then a materials issue. For high groundwater levels, there are waterproof concrete shells (“white tanks”) for the basement.
You have a private message.
It is not stuffy in our house.
The waterproof concrete shell (white tank) provides good external protection. How does it affect drying if water gets in through the window?
There should actually be local experience available regarding what works well in flooding situations.
How likely is it that there will be another flood?
In some areas, occasional flooding several times a year is normal.
It is not stuffy in our house.
The waterproof concrete shell (white tank) provides good external protection. How does it affect drying if water gets in through the window?
There should actually be local experience available regarding what works well in flooding situations.
How likely is it that there will be another flood?
In some areas, occasional flooding several times a year is normal.
Building a house on a hill and tiling the entire ground floor up to the ceiling... Water and houses are a very problematic combination.
How high was the water level in ’94? What are the forecasts for a once-in-a-century flood? It doesn’t really help if it stays dry for 30 years and then everything gets flooded.
I think Bavaria has now stopped payments for flood victims (too expensive); everyone is supposed to insure themselves accordingly.
How high was the water level in ’94? What are the forecasts for a once-in-a-century flood? It doesn’t really help if it stays dry for 30 years and then everything gets flooded.
I think Bavaria has now stopped payments for flood victims (too expensive); everyone is supposed to insure themselves accordingly.
N
Nissandriver12 Jul 2019 11:36Hello everyone,
thank you for the helpful responses.
So, how high was the flood in ’94... Good question. The river (more like a small stream) is about 200m (220 yards) away as the crow flies (roughly checked on Google Maps). The water reached a height of around 20cm (8 inches) there. Afterwards, a high dam was built. Since then, it has been quiet... other areas were flooded in 2010, but the property was spared.
I’ll provide more details later, I’m currently at work O.o.
Best regards,
Steven
thank you for the helpful responses.
So, how high was the flood in ’94... Good question. The river (more like a small stream) is about 200m (220 yards) away as the crow flies (roughly checked on Google Maps). The water reached a height of around 20cm (8 inches) there. Afterwards, a high dam was built. Since then, it has been quiet... other areas were flooded in 2010, but the property was spared.
I’ll provide more details later, I’m currently at work O.o.
Best regards,
Steven