ᐅ Laminate Flooring and Underfloor Heating -> Height Adjustment

Created on: 9 Oct 2017 15:53
B
benkler1401
Hello everyone,

We are currently in the final phase of our building project. The screed is laid, and the tiler is ready to start. At the same time, we are looking for suitable laminate flooring. We have already identified a laminate option, so I’ll get straight to the point.

We have underfloor heating throughout the house, operated by an air-to-water heat pump (air-to-water heat pump). The issue we have currently is that on the upper floor, we planned tiles in the hallway with a tile thickness of 9.5mm (0.37 inches) plus the tile installation buildup. We estimate the total height above the screed will be around 15mm (0.6 inches). The laminate, which will border the tiles in three places, has a thickness of 8mm (0.3 inches), and underneath it is the underlay for impact sound insulation with 2.2mm (0.09 inches), so the total height above the screed would be 10.2mm (0.4 inches). This creates a height difference of about 5mm (0.2 inches).

Our question is how best to even out this height difference. We have read about using OSB (or chipboard) panels, but these are only available starting from 10mm (0.4 inches), which would then be too thick. Additionally, we are concerned that this might affect the thermal resistance of the floor heating.

We would really prefer to avoid using "transition strips" as we find them unattractive and impractical.

Thank you in advance for your help.

Best regards,
benkler1401
KlaRa10 Oct 2017 14:05
benkler1401 schrieb:
A vapor retarder and OSB boards would already be quite expensive for 121 sqm (1300 sq ft)....

@ "benkler1401":
You will surely be surprised later on how much money improper installation can cost! Anyone who tries to save money on the "small stuff," as I casually call it, is not (willingly) prepared to install a functional solution.
Everything I’ve read on this topic will not lead to a successful outcome!
If the finished floor level is actually only 5mm (0.2 inches) lower, then a transition strip between the tile and laminate flooring can be used.
The other option would be to raise the lower area by 5mm (0.2 inches) with a self-leveling compound.
Anything else will fail, no matter what!
Anyone who installs a new (heated) screed without a vapor retarder might as well donate the money intended for the top floor covering to a charity. Because after about 3 to 5 months, the laminate will warp—much to the delight of expressionist artists.
Do-it-yourself methods may be justified within certain limits without problems. But when it comes to the boundaries of building physics, you should know what you are doing—or be prepared to pay a high price later.
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Best regards, KlaRa