ᐅ Heating System Replacement in an Existing Property Built in 1993 – Evaluation of Quotes
Created on: 19 Apr 2021 13:27
M
myDoering
Hello dear home building community.
I have been a silent reader so far and have already gained one or two very useful tips from this forum. Now I need your help.
We have purchased an existing property built in 1993. Currently, the old oil boiler with 20 kW is still installed, which urgently needs to be replaced, as the entire installation in the heating cellar has also "aged."
Here is some background information:
80 m² (860 sq ft) with underfloor heating dating from 1993 (ground floor). The ground floor also has radiators in every room.
80 m² (860 sq ft) with radiators (upper floor)
According to the energy consumption certificate, about 3000 liters (790 gallons) of heating oil were used per year, with 450 liters (119 gallons) for hot water demand. Additionally, 3500 kWh from the tiled stove were used annually for supplementary heating.
We have already renovated the tiled stove (warm air) with 9–18 kWh storage capacity.
Building information:
Double-glazed PVC windows
36 cm (14 inches) exterior wall made of Pori-Klimaton blocks
Fully basemented. One room in the basement is developed as potential living space.
Insulation status:
Attic and roof: rafter insulation with about 16 cm (6 inches) of glass wool.
The roof windows are in poor condition and will need to be replaced soon.
Not beneficial for the house’s energy balance is an open basement staircase/gallery leading from the basement to the upper floor.
There is also a fire protection door on the basement staircase leading outside, which acts as a significant thermal bridge.
Additionally, the wooden house door is in poor condition (warped) and will also be replaced soon. The windows are in excellent condition.
Possible future investments:
- Basement ceiling insulation
- Closing off the basement stairwell (drywall) to prevent cold air drafts from the basement in winter; alternative would be replacing the basement door (more complex)
- Photovoltaic system (9–12.5 kWp)
Longer term: roof insulation, window replacement
Unfortunately, we do not yet have reliable personal experience with the house, and due to the failure of the heating system, we are now forced to take action. Otherwise, the condition of the house is very good, so we do not plan major renovations.
The heating room is very large, and storing pellets is not a problem. Installing a heat pump is also feasible given the property. There is no gas connection.
The following options were offered to us by different heating installers:
1) Air-source heat pump with 10 kW plus 800-liter (210-gallon) fresh water tank, including renovation of all radiators for low-temperature heating. (50% subsidy)
2) Pellet boiler Ökofen condensing with ZeroFlame plus electric heater for fresh water tank 800 liters (210 gallons) (55% subsidy) → currently our favorite
3) ETA PU 14 plus electric heater for fresh water tank 1000 liters (260 gallons) (50% subsidy)
Investment costs for both projects are around 38,000 (minus subsidies). Both offers include a water softening system.
After reading extensively here in the forum, I am now considering prioritizing the photovoltaic system as an investment, to possibly cover the pellet heating during summer months with a hot water heat pump.
I would install this in the basement to increase self-consumption.
I look forward to your opinions. Many thanks in advance!
I have been a silent reader so far and have already gained one or two very useful tips from this forum. Now I need your help.
We have purchased an existing property built in 1993. Currently, the old oil boiler with 20 kW is still installed, which urgently needs to be replaced, as the entire installation in the heating cellar has also "aged."
Here is some background information:
80 m² (860 sq ft) with underfloor heating dating from 1993 (ground floor). The ground floor also has radiators in every room.
80 m² (860 sq ft) with radiators (upper floor)
According to the energy consumption certificate, about 3000 liters (790 gallons) of heating oil were used per year, with 450 liters (119 gallons) for hot water demand. Additionally, 3500 kWh from the tiled stove were used annually for supplementary heating.
We have already renovated the tiled stove (warm air) with 9–18 kWh storage capacity.
Building information:
Double-glazed PVC windows
36 cm (14 inches) exterior wall made of Pori-Klimaton blocks
Fully basemented. One room in the basement is developed as potential living space.
Insulation status:
Attic and roof: rafter insulation with about 16 cm (6 inches) of glass wool.
The roof windows are in poor condition and will need to be replaced soon.
Not beneficial for the house’s energy balance is an open basement staircase/gallery leading from the basement to the upper floor.
There is also a fire protection door on the basement staircase leading outside, which acts as a significant thermal bridge.
Additionally, the wooden house door is in poor condition (warped) and will also be replaced soon. The windows are in excellent condition.
Possible future investments:
- Basement ceiling insulation
- Closing off the basement stairwell (drywall) to prevent cold air drafts from the basement in winter; alternative would be replacing the basement door (more complex)
- Photovoltaic system (9–12.5 kWp)
Longer term: roof insulation, window replacement
Unfortunately, we do not yet have reliable personal experience with the house, and due to the failure of the heating system, we are now forced to take action. Otherwise, the condition of the house is very good, so we do not plan major renovations.
The heating room is very large, and storing pellets is not a problem. Installing a heat pump is also feasible given the property. There is no gas connection.
The following options were offered to us by different heating installers:
1) Air-source heat pump with 10 kW plus 800-liter (210-gallon) fresh water tank, including renovation of all radiators for low-temperature heating. (50% subsidy)
2) Pellet boiler Ökofen condensing with ZeroFlame plus electric heater for fresh water tank 800 liters (210 gallons) (55% subsidy) → currently our favorite
3) ETA PU 14 plus electric heater for fresh water tank 1000 liters (260 gallons) (50% subsidy)
Investment costs for both projects are around 38,000 (minus subsidies). Both offers include a water softening system.
After reading extensively here in the forum, I am now considering prioritizing the photovoltaic system as an investment, to possibly cover the pellet heating during summer months with a hot water heat pump.
I would install this in the basement to increase self-consumption.
I look forward to your opinions. Many thanks in advance!
M
myDoering19 Apr 2021 16:21nordanney schrieb:
OK – I didn’t consider the schedule. But then you are obliged to complete the tasks outlined in the schedule. Well, there isn’t really an "obligation":
“Every energy renovation measure included in an individual refurbishment roadmap (iSFP), for which the bonus is requested, must be carried out within a maximum period of 15 years after the iSFP is created. However, the iSFP bonus is granted starting with the first measure and is not reclaimed if the iSFP is not fully implemented within 15 years.
If you carry out a measure that is not part of this plan, you will not receive the additional +5% funding. You do not have to repay anything. Theoretically, the roadmap is fulfilled with just one measure.”
M
myDoering19 Apr 2021 16:26nordanney schrieb:
P.S. Without any additional energy efficiency measures, I wouldn’t choose a heat pump, and installing photovoltaic panels is always worth considering—regardless of the heating system you have (using pellets with domestic hot water is, of course, a double investment; the heat pump alone performs better in summer).But if I use pellets, can I optimize my own energy consumption with them? Or is the electric heating element (about $900 ~), as suggested by the installer, a better option?
N
nordanney19 Apr 2021 16:36myDoering schrieb:
But if I use pellets, I can optimize my own consumption with them, right? Or is the heating element (around $900) as suggested by the installer better? Everything works. Self-consumption is optimized in summer whether with a heat pump or pellets – the heat pump needs electricity, the domestic hot water heat pump needs electricity, the heating element needs electricity. I can’t say if a domestic hot water heat pump is better than the heating element. It uses significantly less electricity but tends to cost about three times as much as an investment.
Similar topics