ᐅ Mechanical ventilation with heat recovery and swirl diffuser – Passive House
Created on: 4 Aug 2016 19:01
D
daivmhe
Hello everyone,
I’m writing here as a tenant, not as the property owner.
My wife and I will be moving into a passive house with a controlled ventilation system in September.
One of the supply air vents is located at foot level on a wall where I would like to place a cabinet.
My question: Is it possible to install a built-in cabinet in front of such an air outlet?
I would leave the part of the cabinet directly affected by the vent open at the back and top.
Would that be sufficient? The cabinet does not reach the ceiling. There is about 10 cm (4 inches) of space above it.
Thank you very much for your answers.
A brief note about the apartment: 160 m² (1,722 sq ft)
The living area where the cabinet is to be placed is 70 m² (753 sq ft).
Best regards,
Marko
I’m writing here as a tenant, not as the property owner.
My wife and I will be moving into a passive house with a controlled ventilation system in September.
One of the supply air vents is located at foot level on a wall where I would like to place a cabinet.
My question: Is it possible to install a built-in cabinet in front of such an air outlet?
I would leave the part of the cabinet directly affected by the vent open at the back and top.
Would that be sufficient? The cabinet does not reach the ceiling. There is about 10 cm (4 inches) of space above it.
Thank you very much for your answers.
A brief note about the apartment: 160 m² (1,722 sq ft)
The living area where the cabinet is to be placed is 70 m² (753 sq ft).
Best regards,
Marko
S
Sebastian798 Sep 2016 15:17Is there PUR insulation in there? Because otherwise, it doesn’t look like it complies with the 100% energy efficiency regulations...? Those are hot water pipes, right?
The green pipe is probably DN75 (approximately 3 inches), plus the intersections, so you’ll likely be above or right at the insulation layer. But that’s not a problem as long as it’s covered with a vapor barrier...
Maybe he was smart and had the electrical cables installed from above?
The green pipe is probably DN75 (approximately 3 inches), plus the intersections, so you’ll likely be above or right at the insulation layer. But that’s not a problem as long as it’s covered with a vapor barrier...
Maybe he was smart and had the electrical cables installed from above?
- Yes, ventilation duct diameter = 75mm (3 inches)
- It is slightly higher at that point, but it is not a problem if the screed is locally only 5 cm (2 inches) thick instead of 6 cm (2.4 inches) in one or two places. The important thing is that the reduction is not linear; otherwise, cracks may occur.
- Correct, except for the wiring of the thermostats and speakers, all the electrical installation is done from above.
- No, the black round pipe insulation is not made of PUR; it is synthetic rubber. Yes, these are hot water pipes for a hydronic fireplace.
- It is slightly higher at that point, but it is not a problem if the screed is locally only 5 cm (2 inches) thick instead of 6 cm (2.4 inches) in one or two places. The important thing is that the reduction is not linear; otherwise, cracks may occur.
- Correct, except for the wiring of the thermostats and speakers, all the electrical installation is done from above.
- No, the black round pipe insulation is not made of PUR; it is synthetic rubber. Yes, these are hot water pipes for a hydronic fireplace.
B
Bieber08159 Sep 2016 09:03AOLNCM schrieb:
Although slightly higher at that spot, it is not a problem if the screed is only 5 cm (2 inches) thick in one or two places instead of 6 cm (2.4 inches). If you say so. What about the minimum coverage above the underfloor heating pipes (since you mentioned staple insulation boards, I assume there is heating)? In my opinion, the staple board should be completely flat at least. How it looks underneath... okay, some weak points can probably be accepted.
In this case, using flat ducts instead of round pipes would, in my opinion, have been a better choice.