I need some advice again. We are going to install a Repabad acrylic bathtub. This tub will be placed in a niche in the bathroom, meaning one long side will be exposed, the short side near the foot end will be against a solid wall, and the other long side as well as the head end will have a ledge about 20cm (8 inches) wide. The tub will not have a support frame but will stand solely on feet on the raw subfloor (new build with a concrete slab).
The woman from the bathroom studio, who has many years of experience, recommended building a 40cm (16 inches) drywall frame around the 20cm (8 inches) ledge, then supporting the bathtub edge up to the rim with plasterboard or Wedi panels so the tub can rest on it. The tiles will be flush, so the tub will essentially be clamped on three sides.
I asked the plumber and the drywall specialist on site today. They didn’t understand this approach at all and said they have only seen versions with Styrodur (extruded polystyrene foam) for years, which were then tiled. In those cases, the tiles would also clamp the tub.
Now my questions:
a) Which of the two options (Styrodur/drywall) is really more advisable here, regardless of cost?
b) Would the Styrodur option be stable enough so that if someone sits on the rim at the head end on an empty tub, the thin rim won’t compress the Styrodur and cause the tub to tilt?
c) Since the tub is clamped on three sides by tiles, but I read that when the tub is full, forces can occur that might slightly change its width – wouldn’t this cause the silicone seal on the long side to tear?
d) On the exposed side under the tub rim, a Wedi panel will be clamped and tiled – is damage to be expected if a person of normal weight (60-80kg) sits on the tub rim there?
The woman from the bathroom studio, who has many years of experience, recommended building a 40cm (16 inches) drywall frame around the 20cm (8 inches) ledge, then supporting the bathtub edge up to the rim with plasterboard or Wedi panels so the tub can rest on it. The tiles will be flush, so the tub will essentially be clamped on three sides.
I asked the plumber and the drywall specialist on site today. They didn’t understand this approach at all and said they have only seen versions with Styrodur (extruded polystyrene foam) for years, which were then tiled. In those cases, the tiles would also clamp the tub.
Now my questions:
a) Which of the two options (Styrodur/drywall) is really more advisable here, regardless of cost?
b) Would the Styrodur option be stable enough so that if someone sits on the rim at the head end on an empty tub, the thin rim won’t compress the Styrodur and cause the tub to tilt?
c) Since the tub is clamped on three sides by tiles, but I read that when the tub is full, forces can occur that might slightly change its width – wouldn’t this cause the silicone seal on the long side to tear?
d) On the exposed side under the tub rim, a Wedi panel will be clamped and tiled – is damage to be expected if a person of normal weight (60-80kg) sits on the tub rim there?
P
Peanuts7425 Nov 2016 12:36rabudde schrieb:
@Washbasin: So it probably depends on the tiler to cut a nice rounded corner. Yes, I’m still wondering about the “the tub flexes” issue and whether it will actually cause a problem. That’s why I asked if the shelf should be built with drywall, since you could then attach the wall brackets to it and pull the tub flush against the drywall – although that’s quite a bit more work than just cutting a few Styrofoam panels. The tub will be filled via a surface-mounted faucet.
@Peanuts74: I personally prefer showering, but my wife takes baths more often and had specific requirements for the tub shape, which unfortunately was only available in acrylic. Also, in our case, it’s the opposite: four doctors, five opinions. We were often advised to choose acrylic instead of steel. Purely regarding durability and stability, I would have also preferred steel, but there was simply nothing suitable available.What advantages of acrylic tubs were mentioned?
The "Usual"
- If something dents in, the enamel won’t immediately crack (although it can be repaired)
- Scratches can be polished out
- There is no "perceived" coldness like with steel (even though that cold sensation right after touching it fades quickly, I hated touching those steel bathtubs as a child)
It’s irreversible now anyway; the tub is ordered and cannot be canceled since it has integrated lighting, making it a custom order.
I think an acrylic bathtub is a good option for a private household and should last several years. I was initially a strong supporter of a steel bathtub, but I can accept acrylic now. It’s just the shape stability during use that still worries me a bit.
- If something dents in, the enamel won’t immediately crack (although it can be repaired)
- Scratches can be polished out
- There is no "perceived" coldness like with steel (even though that cold sensation right after touching it fades quickly, I hated touching those steel bathtubs as a child)
It’s irreversible now anyway; the tub is ordered and cannot be canceled since it has integrated lighting, making it a custom order.
I think an acrylic bathtub is a good option for a private household and should last several years. I was initially a strong supporter of a steel bathtub, but I can accept acrylic now. It’s just the shape stability during use that still worries me a bit.
Hi everyone,
I’m usually not very talkative and more of a “silent reader,” but I might have a suggestion for you.
We basically had the exact same starting situation. Our acrylic bathtub is also from repabad and relatively large (1.90 meters (6 ft 3 in)). In the polystyrene insulation (or foam board), the tub wobbled like crazy.
We solved it differently by building a partial wall with Ytong blocks along the “free” long side to create a shelf for the bathtub rim (with the inlet in between). What helped the most was placing the tub on feet and, after installing it, generously filling the cavities with two cans of expanding foam for door frames. I checked beforehand, and the acrylic isn’t affected by the foam. The bathtub now sits rock solid, even when I jump around in it (I weigh 88 kg (194 lbs)).
Maybe this helps you out.
I’m usually not very talkative and more of a “silent reader,” but I might have a suggestion for you.
We basically had the exact same starting situation. Our acrylic bathtub is also from repabad and relatively large (1.90 meters (6 ft 3 in)). In the polystyrene insulation (or foam board), the tub wobbled like crazy.
We solved it differently by building a partial wall with Ytong blocks along the “free” long side to create a shelf for the bathtub rim (with the inlet in between). What helped the most was placing the tub on feet and, after installing it, generously filling the cavities with two cans of expanding foam for door frames. I checked beforehand, and the acrylic isn’t affected by the foam. The bathtub now sits rock solid, even when I jump around in it (I weigh 88 kg (194 lbs)).
Maybe this helps you out.