Hello everyone,
We are currently planning our new build and want to construct the exterior walls monolithically with Poroton blocks. Now the question is whether we should also build the load-bearing interior walls from Kalksandstein (calcium silicate bricks) or use Poroton for those as well. We would prefer Kalksandstein, among other reasons, for better sound insulation and the possibility of using standard anchors.
Some construction companies say there might be slight stress cracks, while others say this is not a problem since mortar shrinkage is greatly reduced with modern thin-bed mortar.
The non-load-bearing walls would be made of drywall panels. Would you recommend this, or would you suggest an alternative?
Do you have any experience with this? Have you perhaps built like this? We would be grateful for any tips.
Best regards
We are currently planning our new build and want to construct the exterior walls monolithically with Poroton blocks. Now the question is whether we should also build the load-bearing interior walls from Kalksandstein (calcium silicate bricks) or use Poroton for those as well. We would prefer Kalksandstein, among other reasons, for better sound insulation and the possibility of using standard anchors.
Some construction companies say there might be slight stress cracks, while others say this is not a problem since mortar shrinkage is greatly reduced with modern thin-bed mortar.
The non-load-bearing walls would be made of drywall panels. Would you recommend this, or would you suggest an alternative?
Do you have any experience with this? Have you perhaps built like this? We would be grateful for any tips.
Best regards
bewobau schrieb:
What without words? I didn’t understand that either.
bewobau schrieb:
How is this supposed to help me? This is how it helps you:
ypg schrieb:
I’m linking a summary of a post about a former builder (called Räuber or Hotzenplotz) who approached building his house just like you. 11ant schrieb:
@R.Hotzenplotz (1,610 posts, member since August 8, 2015, last seen October 10, 2018) tried here in numerous individual threads, somewhat scattered, to find out how he could best build his approximately 220 m² (2,368 sq ft) “city villa” as I recall. His initial mistake was probably commissioning a general contractor (GC) to realize his very modern design who was not really someone to be warned about. This GC had an unsuitable profile (happy to install vintage-style light switches, but preferred not to have technical and/or visual modernity) and also brought in a structural shell contractor for the project for the first time. This eventually led to a never-ending series of small disasters, during which Räuber, as I recall, went through four construction supervisors (some recommended by the community) until he finally withdrew here out of honest sympathy. He had considered many details back and forth to the point where he lost track of the current release status of the detailed plans, and the energy utility installer set the house connection in the wrong basement room (correct in an older plan version). The threshold for access to the laundry balcony became a hurdle due to misunderstandings about its necessary and possible height; downpipes were covered because they were installed next to the intended wall chases instead of inside them; the elaborately integrated mailbox now cannot be accessed from the rear for insulation reasons; the desired lawn tractor model only fit through the front gate, but not the rear gate of the double garage with driveway access, and many more such issues. You can find his main thread here: https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/grundrissplanung-kurz-vor-bauantragsstellung.25647/ - also read: https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/wie-viel-grad-neigung-bei-zeltdach-kennt-ihr-webseiten.33157/#post-363153 https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
bewobau schrieb:
@ypg
What do you mean without words? How is this supposed to help me now?Well, you mention drywall panels, but in your reply, your question mark suggests uncertainty about them. One might assume you don’t know what drywall panels are attached to.Only the post by @11ant or the thread from Hotzenplotz, who followed a similar approach as you and unfortunately ran into trouble with his house build because he demanded many "custom solutions" from his construction company according to his own preferences, can really help you.
I don’t consider your knowledge about house construction as solid. Your statements here in the forum are quite scattered and appear not always well-reasoned, since much of it was compared only loosely to unrelated things.
We are building the non-load-bearing walls with 10cm (4 inches) gypsum wallboards. Unfortunately, the posts here cannot be edited.
I was only confused by the term lightweight construction. If I had in-depth knowledge about house building, I probably wouldn’t be here...
And what do you mean exactly by "the way you proceeded"? Where is the problem?
I was only confused by the term lightweight construction. If I had in-depth knowledge about house building, I probably wouldn’t be here...
And what do you mean exactly by "the way you proceeded"? Where is the problem?
bewobau schrieb:
We build the non-load-bearing walls using 10cm gypsum wall panels. [...] If I had thorough knowledge about house construction, I probably wouldn’t be here... As an old timer, I have seen quite a bit that my school wisdom never dreamed of – but so far, I haven’t come across any DIY amateurs driven to build non-load-bearing walls from gypsum boards themselves. Could you enlighten me?
I like to consider the choice of materials for non-load-bearing interior walls thoughtfully and do use gypsum boards myself, but I have never thought about using proprietary profiles when working with them. Please let me learn!
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/