Hello everyone,
We are currently planning our new build and want to construct the exterior walls monolithically with Poroton blocks. Now the question is whether we should also build the load-bearing interior walls from Kalksandstein (calcium silicate bricks) or use Poroton for those as well. We would prefer Kalksandstein, among other reasons, for better sound insulation and the possibility of using standard anchors.
Some construction companies say there might be slight stress cracks, while others say this is not a problem since mortar shrinkage is greatly reduced with modern thin-bed mortar.
The non-load-bearing walls would be made of drywall panels. Would you recommend this, or would you suggest an alternative?
Do you have any experience with this? Have you perhaps built like this? We would be grateful for any tips.
Best regards
We are currently planning our new build and want to construct the exterior walls monolithically with Poroton blocks. Now the question is whether we should also build the load-bearing interior walls from Kalksandstein (calcium silicate bricks) or use Poroton for those as well. We would prefer Kalksandstein, among other reasons, for better sound insulation and the possibility of using standard anchors.
Some construction companies say there might be slight stress cracks, while others say this is not a problem since mortar shrinkage is greatly reduced with modern thin-bed mortar.
The non-load-bearing walls would be made of drywall panels. Would you recommend this, or would you suggest an alternative?
Do you have any experience with this? Have you perhaps built like this? We would be grateful for any tips.
Best regards
Hi,
when choosing the material for load-bearing interior walls, calcium silicate blocks actually offer advantages in sound insulation and fixing points for later fittings. Poroton bricks are lighter, but they are less flexible for drilling heavy loads and provide less soundproofing at the same wall thickness. Minor stress cracks may occur, especially where Poroton meets calcium silicate, but with proper workmanship and an adapted plaster system, this is rarely a real issue nowadays. For gypsum board partition walls, consider whether you plan to attach heavier loads over time or have specific soundproofing requirements. Have you already discussed possible combinations of solid and lightweight construction walls with your architect?
Good luck!
when choosing the material for load-bearing interior walls, calcium silicate blocks actually offer advantages in sound insulation and fixing points for later fittings. Poroton bricks are lighter, but they are less flexible for drilling heavy loads and provide less soundproofing at the same wall thickness. Minor stress cracks may occur, especially where Poroton meets calcium silicate, but with proper workmanship and an adapted plaster system, this is rarely a real issue nowadays. For gypsum board partition walls, consider whether you plan to attach heavier loads over time or have specific soundproofing requirements. Have you already discussed possible combinations of solid and lightweight construction walls with your architect?
Good luck!
@Nauer
What do you mean by "proper execution and adjusted plaster structure"?
Mesh reinforcements?
Not yet, what do you mean by that? Metal stud framing?
What do you mean by "proper execution and adjusted plaster structure"?
Mesh reinforcements?
Nauer schrieb:
Have you already discussed possible combinations of solid and lightweight wall construction with your architect?
Not yet, what do you mean by that? Metal stud framing?
Hi,
when using different wall materials and transitions, plastering is more than just cosmetic. Especially at joints, so-called separation or reinforcement strips are used to minimize the risk of cracks and visible defects. The choice of plaster system can also be adapted depending on the type of masonry, particularly regarding adhesion and elasticity.
when using different wall materials and transitions, plastering is more than just cosmetic. Especially at joints, so-called separation or reinforcement strips are used to minimize the risk of cracks and visible defects. The choice of plaster system can also be adapted depending on the type of masonry, particularly regarding adhesion and elasticity.
bewobau schrieb:
We are currently planning our new build and want to construct the exterior walls monolithically with Poroton blocks.
Now the question is whether we should also build the load-bearing interior walls from calcium silicate bricks or Poroton. We would prefer calcium silicate bricks, among other reasons for sound insulation and the use of standard dowels. The "11ant Steinemantra" means not interfering with the builder's choice of materials—even if it’s a top-rated block. Use the aerated clay blocks in the filled version; that should generally be sufficient.
bewobau schrieb:
The non-load-bearing walls would be made of gypsum plasterboard. Would you recommend that, or rather use an alternative? I like to use lightweight partition walls on upper floors and attic levels. For townhouse-style buildings with truss roofs due to the separation of floor layouts, and in one-and-a-half-story houses also because of the roof slope connections.
https://www.instagram.com/11antgmxde/
https://www.linkedin.com/company/bauen-jetzt/
bewobau schrieb:
The non-load-bearing walls would be made of drywall panels. Would you recommend them, or would you suggest an alternative? Nauer schrieb:
Have you already discussed possible combinations of solid and lightweight walls with your architect? bewobau schrieb:
Not yet, what do you mean by that? Metal stud framing? No comment.
bewobau schrieb:
… our favorite, enthusiastic about custom solutions, bewobau schrieb:
We compared more than 8 suppliers and hopefully chose the right one. 11ant schrieb:
More than eight – so actually eight and a half?
Comparing such a mixed bunch like apples / pears / cherries / plums probably causes more confusion than clarity. I’m going to link a summary of a post from a former builder (named Räuber or Hotzenplotz), who approached the house construction much like you.
11ant schrieb:
@R.Hotzenplotz (1,610 posts, member since August 8, 2015, last seen October 10, 2018) tried here across numerous threads to figure out how best to build his, if I recall correctly, 220 sqm (2,368 sq ft) “town villa.” His initial mistake seems to have been hiring a general contractor for the implementation of his very modern design, who was not really suited for it (happy enough with gold-framed light switches but less so with technical and/or optical modernity) and who also engaged a shell contractor for the first time on this project. This resulted in an endless series of small disasters, during which Räuber, if I remember correctly, went through four site supervisors (some recommended by the community) until he withdrew here out of honest sympathy. He had reconsidered many details so many times that the overview of the current release status of the detailed plans was lost, leading the energy supplier’s technician to install the house connection in the wrong basement room (which had been correct in an older plan). The threshold to the laundry balcony became an obstacle, ultimately due to misunderstandings about its necessary and possible height; downpipes were boxed in because they had been installed next to, not within, the planned wall chases; the elaborately integrated mailbox now cannot be emptied from the rear for insulation reasons; the chosen lawn tractor model only fit in height through the front but not the rear gate of the double drive-through garage, and so on. You can find his main thread here: https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/grundrissplanung-kurz-vor-bauantragsstellung.25647/ – also read: https://www.hausbau-forum.de/threads/wie-viel-grad-neigung-bei-zeltdach-kennt-ihr-webseiten.33157/#post-363153 Similar topics