ᐅ Y-Tong (aerated concrete) – a quality building material? (Sound insulation!)
Created on: 20 Aug 2018 19:58
B
Bauherr&-frau
Dear Forum,
Our developer plans to use "Ytong PPW2 d = 36.5 cm (14.4 inches) for the exterior walls according to the scope of work. Inside, 17.5 cm (6.9 inches). On the outside, a 3 mm (0.1 inch) mineral-based lightweight plaster will be applied. To me, this seems somewhat minimal compared to the insulation and materials others are using.
We are wondering if the thermal insulation requirements are met without additional insulation? And what about mold and ventilation? A air-to-water heat pump with underfloor heating is planned.
What worries us even more is the soundproofing, since we have a cobblestone street right outside. A friend who is an engineer told me yesterday that Ytong has "poor sound insulation properties."
So even triple-glazed windows with enhanced soundproofing probably won’t help much? [B] I would appreciate honest clarification and possibly some alternative suggestions. We are not experts and I don’t want to hear every car! Some friends of ours build with calcium silicate blocks and are very satisfied. Their father is an architect and swears by them.
Many thanks and best regards! We would be lost without you!
Our developer plans to use "Ytong PPW2 d = 36.5 cm (14.4 inches) for the exterior walls according to the scope of work. Inside, 17.5 cm (6.9 inches). On the outside, a 3 mm (0.1 inch) mineral-based lightweight plaster will be applied. To me, this seems somewhat minimal compared to the insulation and materials others are using.
We are wondering if the thermal insulation requirements are met without additional insulation? And what about mold and ventilation? A air-to-water heat pump with underfloor heating is planned.
What worries us even more is the soundproofing, since we have a cobblestone street right outside. A friend who is an engineer told me yesterday that Ytong has "poor sound insulation properties."
So even triple-glazed windows with enhanced soundproofing probably won’t help much? [B] I would appreciate honest clarification and possibly some alternative suggestions. We are not experts and I don’t want to hear every car! Some friends of ours build with calcium silicate blocks and are very satisfied. Their father is an architect and swears by them.
Many thanks and best regards! We would be lost without you!
O
Obstlerbaum21 Sep 2018 16:46Calling a sound reduction of 40dB "almost non-existent"... what a character. Did he at least recommend windows with over 50dB sound insulation and tell you how much that would cost? That can easily add up to a few thousand dollars.
Your calculation is correct. Regarding the data: a Google image search for "Ytong sound insulation" brings up a comparison chart as the first result for me. Ytong 36.5 has 42dB, Silka 24 has 54dB.
Your calculation is correct. Regarding the data: a Google image search for "Ytong sound insulation" brings up a comparison chart as the first result for me. Ytong 36.5 has 42dB, Silka 24 has 54dB.
Bauherr&-frau21 Sep 2018 16:59We have now reviewed soundproof windows rated for category III, and the seller mentioned that anything beyond that becomes excessively expensive and eventually uneconomical. He believed that the 36.5 cm (14 inches) Ytong blocks are sufficient for sound insulation in this case, considering the relatively quiet one-way street with cobblestones. The bedroom faces entirely the opposite direction.
As I said, I’m slowly losing patience. This situation changes week by week. Everyone says something different. I wouldn’t be too bothered if the noise level in the kitchen was not reduced by 15 dB when a car passes by, but rather by 25-30 dB.
The farther away I am, the lower the noise level will be, right? On the side facing the small street, there would only be the kitchen, guest toilet, dressing room, and guest bedroom.
As I said, I’m slowly losing patience. This situation changes week by week. Everyone says something different. I wouldn’t be too bothered if the noise level in the kitchen was not reduced by 15 dB when a car passes by, but rather by 25-30 dB.
The farther away I am, the lower the noise level will be, right? On the side facing the small street, there would only be the kitchen, guest toilet, dressing room, and guest bedroom.
O
Obstlerbaum21 Sep 2018 17:17Bauherr&-Frau schrieb:
We had soundproof windows of category III sampled, and the seller said that everything beyond that gets ridiculously and eventually unreasonably expensive. He also believed that Ytong 36.5 was sufficient for sound insulation—considering the relatively quiet one-way street with a 30cm (12 inch) pavement, although it’s cobblestone. The bedroom faces completely the opposite direction anyway.
As I said, I’m slowly losing it. This is a weekly back-and-forth. Everyone says something different. It wouldn’t really bother me if the noise level in the kitchen isn’t reduced by 15 dB when a car passes by, but rather by 25 to 30.
The farther away I am, the less noise there will be, right? On the side facing the small street, there are only the kitchen, guest bathroom, dressing room, and guest bedroom. The seller’s logic is exactly what I meant. 40 dB windows fit well when building with Ytong. But installing 40 dB windows (preferably floor-to-ceiling all around) into a 55 dB wall doesn’t make much sense. If the street is really that loud, you’ll have to bite the bullet and invest in high-performance windows as well. Borrow a good sound level meter and take some test measurements on the property.
I’m reminded of several homeowners who want to add 50 cm (20 inches) of Styrodur insulation to their walls just to save a few cents annually on heating costs.
Bauherr&-frau21 Sep 2018 17:29Obstlerbaum schrieb:
The seller’s logic is exactly what I meant. 40dB windows are a good match when building with Ytong. But installing 40dB windows (preferably full-height around) into a 55dB wall doesn’t make much sense. If the road is really that noisy, you have to bite the bullet and invest in better windows. Borrow a decent sound level meter and do some test measurements on the property.
I’m reminded of various builders who want to add 50cm (20 inches) of Styrodur insulation to their walls just to save the last 3 cents on heating costs per year.I can understand that logic as well; I also prefer the monolithic approach — it just feels more straightforward somehow.
We’re not concerned about saving those few cents on heating bills; that doesn’t bother me at all. But I don’t want to sit in the house thinking, “Hmm, okay, yeah: the block is really crappy.” Our focus is purely on sound insulation — whether it’s insulation applied externally on the block or integrated into the block itself doesn’t really matter to us. The overall values are similar and, due to energy saving regulations (building permit / planning permission), quite high (maybe even almost too high), but that’s another topic.
We’ll look into getting such a device! Thanks for the tips!
Bauherr&-Frau schrieb:
The further away I am, the less sound there is, right? Yes, the sound pressure decreases with the distance from the source. The perceived effect is not quite the same, because at greater distances there are also more surfaces for the sound to reflect off. Overall, including the overtones, the noise can still be perceived as more disturbing—but at least it is quieter.
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Bauherr&-frau9 Oct 2018 17:41So friends, I’m bringing this thread back up. Recently, I spent 2 hours from 4 to 6 pm measuring sound using a purchased app to get a fairly clear idea. The app seems sensitive since it could pick up our whisper from 3 meters (10 feet) away. The measurement was taken on the current terrace at a wooden door directly facing the noise source (the wooden door was ajar, phone microphone pointed toward the open side). The following values were recorded at about 10 meters (33 feet) from the source:
Average: 44 dB (from roughly 7200 seconds of measurements)
Background noise outdoors around 34-37 dB
MAX: twice briefly reaching 75 dB within two hours
Cars usually around 50-60 dB
In principle, the Ytong PP02 with 42 dB sound insulation and the windows of the SSK 3 should be sufficient, right? Bedrooms and similar rooms are not facing the noise side.
What do you think? Alternatively, I had considered the PP4 (higher density with 0.5) but with a worse U-value of 0.26 instead of 0.21.
Average: 44 dB (from roughly 7200 seconds of measurements)
Background noise outdoors around 34-37 dB
MAX: twice briefly reaching 75 dB within two hours
Cars usually around 50-60 dB
In principle, the Ytong PP02 with 42 dB sound insulation and the windows of the SSK 3 should be sufficient, right? Bedrooms and similar rooms are not facing the noise side.
What do you think? Alternatively, I had considered the PP4 (higher density with 0.5) but with a worse U-value of 0.26 instead of 0.21.
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