Hello everyone,
We have a steel terrace structure on our raised ground floor. There is a 10cm (4 inch) height difference between the steel beams and the top edge of the structure. We would like to install WPC decking here.
Assuming the decking boards are about 2cm (0.8 inch) thick, approximately 8cm (3 inch) of height needs to be "filled" on the substructure above the steel beams.
- What kind of substructure would you recommend for this purpose? So far, I haven’t come across anything with a thickness of 8cm (3 inch).
- What would be the ideal way to fasten this substructure to the steel beams? Using self-drilling screws into the steel beams?
Regards,
N
We have a steel terrace structure on our raised ground floor. There is a 10cm (4 inch) height difference between the steel beams and the top edge of the structure. We would like to install WPC decking here.
Assuming the decking boards are about 2cm (0.8 inch) thick, approximately 8cm (3 inch) of height needs to be "filled" on the substructure above the steel beams.
- What kind of substructure would you recommend for this purpose? So far, I haven’t come across anything with a thickness of 8cm (3 inch).
- What would be the ideal way to fasten this substructure to the steel beams? Using self-drilling screws into the steel beams?
Regards,
N
N
Nanopixel26 Apr 2021 01:06Yes, you can then see the edge of the steel frame from above.
Extra wide boards were also my initial idea – but 24cm (9.5 inches) wide, that won’t work :/
Definitely solid wood.
Extra wide boards were also my initial idea – but 24cm (9.5 inches) wide, that won’t work :/
Definitely solid wood.
The correct approach would have been to have the balcony contractor fabricate a small support beam (traverse) directly. Under the floor-to-ceiling window, a standard exterior window sill should be installed as a second water-draining layer (mandatory!). Then, the support beam should be mounted with some clearance above it, allowing the flooring to run continuously up to just before the door (not directly against it, as any step onto the threshold would cause movement and damage the waterproofing at that point). Now, open the door. Have the balcony contractor measure, fabricate, and install the support beam. The exterior window sill should be installed beforehand. Afterwards, install or have the balcony flooring installed.
N
Nanopixel28 Apr 2021 13:34Thank you, but it is pointless to argue with what-ifs after the fact. The steel frame is already in place, and I cannot extend the floor covering continuously because it would then be too high (1. for the roller shutters of the floor-to-ceiling windows and 2. for the staircase on the other side).
Read carefully and make sure you understand! No one said the flooring should be continuous. Adjust the beam height so that it fits under the door but above the windowsill. Naturally, deduct the thickness of the flooring from the height upwards. Then proceed as described above to have it made and installed. The balcony manufacturer or the steelworker/professional on site will know how to implement this properly. Why insist on complicating things with a solution that won’t last long and will lead to various costly problems? Just do it once – but do it right. 😉
N
Nanopixel28 Apr 2021 15:27OK, I actually misread the part about letting it run through 🙂 😎
N
Nanopixel28 Apr 2021 15:58However, this solution is not feasible for the door shown in image 3, as there is no space below for crossbeams and supporting structures.
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