Hello everyone
First of all:
We have the inspector's permission to install the cables, and that was the question that concerns us and is currently unresolved!
I am an electrician/electronics technician, but I come from the industrial sector. Therefore, I am not familiar with the relevant residential building regulations. The inspector is sick and unreachable, but time is pressing...
House wiring (new construction / prefabricated construction / timber frame).
What is currently considered the "state of the art"? We plan to separate the outlets and lighting circuits.
Supply line for outlets: NYM 2.5mm² (5 AWG). For larger rooms, is it more practical to have two branch circuits, for example in a living room with about 10 outlets?
And generally, is it allowed to connect all 10 outlets in parallel on one supply line, or is a distribution box required on site? We want to avoid a distribution box if possible.
Background: we want to install the cables over Christmas and the days following. The inspector is currently sick and unreachable...
We have the inspector's permission to lay the cables, and this is the question that worries us and is still open!
As mentioned, I am an electrician/electronics technician from the industrial sector, so the applicable standards in house wiring are unfamiliar to me.
Good luck
dettec61
First of all:
We have the inspector's permission to install the cables, and that was the question that concerns us and is currently unresolved!
I am an electrician/electronics technician, but I come from the industrial sector. Therefore, I am not familiar with the relevant residential building regulations. The inspector is sick and unreachable, but time is pressing...
House wiring (new construction / prefabricated construction / timber frame).
What is currently considered the "state of the art"? We plan to separate the outlets and lighting circuits.
Supply line for outlets: NYM 2.5mm² (5 AWG). For larger rooms, is it more practical to have two branch circuits, for example in a living room with about 10 outlets?
And generally, is it allowed to connect all 10 outlets in parallel on one supply line, or is a distribution box required on site? We want to avoid a distribution box if possible.
Background: we want to install the cables over Christmas and the days following. The inspector is currently sick and unreachable...
We have the inspector's permission to lay the cables, and this is the question that worries us and is still open!
As mentioned, I am an electrician/electronics technician from the industrial sector, so the applicable standards in house wiring are unfamiliar to me.
Good luck
dettec61
dettec61 schrieb:
Over 30 years ago, 10 Mbit was the "standard"... Nobody believed in 1 or 10, even 100 Gbit...That’s why cables are installed to be replaceable. Nothing is more future-proof!
hanse987 schrieb:
That’s why cables are laid to be replaceable. Nothing is more future-proof!Yes, we were aware of that 30 years ago as well. But when renovating an old building, it’s sometimes simply not possible due to limited space. Also, all the other cables in the wall are just plastered in...R
RotorMotor23 Dec 2022 18:34dettec61 schrieb:
Well, 1.5mm² = 10A fuse.Where did you get that from? How long are the cables going to be?
RotorMotor schrieb:
Where did you get that from?
How long are the cables supposed to be? Here, they follow this recommendation and apply it in construction. I’m not familiar with it being done differently. Five years ago, I was already advised to use 2.5mm² (about 3 AWG) wiring for outlets and 1.5mm² (about 15 AWG) for lighting circuits with a 10A breaker. Two companies I consulted recommended the same.
The longest cable in the new build will be about 30m (100 feet).
X
xMisterDx25 Dec 2022 10:01The classic scenario. Industrial electricians who think, "I can handle running those cables myself," and then quickly realize, "Uh, what do I need to consider? And how do I actually do this?"
Don’t do it—wait for the master electrician. Otherwise, you might end up having to tear everything out again.
By the way, a look in the reference book confirms this. In thermally insulated walls, when installed inside conduit, a 3x1.5 NYM cable is only rated for 13 A, so it must be protected with a 10 A breaker. On top of that, there is also a derating factor to consider, since the wall temperature can exceed 30°C (86°F) during the peak of summer.
Don’t do it—wait for the master electrician. Otherwise, you might end up having to tear everything out again.
By the way, a look in the reference book confirms this. In thermally insulated walls, when installed inside conduit, a 3x1.5 NYM cable is only rated for 13 A, so it must be protected with a 10 A breaker. On top of that, there is also a derating factor to consider, since the wall temperature can exceed 30°C (86°F) during the peak of summer.
R
RotorMotor25 Dec 2022 10:18xMisterDx schrieb:
A look into the reference tables actually confirms this. In walls with thermal insulation, when installed inside conduit, a 3x1.5 NYM cable may only carry 13 A,Do you really think all three conductors in a 3 NYM cable are current-carrying?Similar topics