Hello everyone,
I was able to agree with the general contractor building our house that we will handle the windows and front door ourselves. Now I am undecided between two options. A well-known local window supplier uses windows and front doors from Weru (AFINO-one). The alternative would be a window company that uses Schüco profiles, specifically the Schüco Thermo 6 (SI 82) Classic profile. The general contractor’s window supplier delivers windows with the Synego profile from Rehau. Does anyone have experience with these?
I was able to agree with the general contractor building our house that we will handle the windows and front door ourselves. Now I am undecided between two options. A well-known local window supplier uses windows and front doors from Weru (AFINO-one). The alternative would be a window company that uses Schüco profiles, specifically the Schüco Thermo 6 (SI 82) Classic profile. The general contractor’s window supplier delivers windows with the Synego profile from Rehau. Does anyone have experience with these?
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alter002930 Nov 2016 10:13He just said, "It doesn't look nice."
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Bieber081530 Nov 2016 10:14This is an interesting topic! I found a blog post by a specialist lawyer online titled "Distance of Roller Shutter Guide Rails to the Window Sill." More questions from answers ... . I’m curious to see how this develops, and if I remember, I will take a look at it in our case as well.
Sidebar:
This is another example where it would be helpful if the builder showed the client beforehand what it will actually look like. Our marble window sills looked quite different from the ones in the showroom. My suggestion to display realistic samples (including all the natural inclusions and imperfections, which are all allowed and do not represent defects) in the showroom wasn’t really understood. At first, we were quite confused [although dirt was also a factor]).
Sidebar:
This is another example where it would be helpful if the builder showed the client beforehand what it will actually look like. Our marble window sills looked quite different from the ones in the showroom. My suggestion to display realistic samples (including all the natural inclusions and imperfections, which are all allowed and do not represent defects) in the showroom wasn’t really understood. At first, we were quite confused [although dirt was also a factor]).
A
alter002930 Nov 2016 10:18If I am not allowed to have a gap larger than 8 mm (0.3 inches) according to the regulations, I have to attach the guide rail next to the protective cap. There is no need to think twice about that.
Yes, there is a standard (DIN) that specifies something about 8 mm (0.3 inches).
In principle, metal always needs some space for expansion.
As I understand it:
...it is often installed so that the guide rail rests on the window sill rail (as you can see in your case) and this is also _not incorrect_ because it allows for easier cleaning of the window sill.
From a thermal perspective, this gap is not significant.
Nitpickers focus on the 8 mm (0.3 inches) and later end up annoyed because dirt accumulates on their window sills that they cannot clean under if the gap is smaller than or equal to 8 mm (0.3 inches). That is the difference between theory and practice!
That’s my amateur half-knowledge on this topic.
Best regards
In principle, metal always needs some space for expansion.
As I understand it:
...it is often installed so that the guide rail rests on the window sill rail (as you can see in your case) and this is also _not incorrect_ because it allows for easier cleaning of the window sill.
From a thermal perspective, this gap is not significant.
Nitpickers focus on the 8 mm (0.3 inches) and later end up annoyed because dirt accumulates on their window sills that they cannot clean under if the gap is smaller than or equal to 8 mm (0.3 inches). That is the difference between theory and practice!
That’s my amateur half-knowledge on this topic.
Best regards
alter0029 schrieb:
If I am not allowed to have a gap larger than 8 mm (0.3 inches) according to the rules, I have to install the guide rail next to the protective cap. No need to think twice about that. Since the protective cap will be plastered over, how do you plan to handle that? Without creating a gap between the wall and the rail?