Hello,
we are currently planning our bathroom and have an open question that I hope to clarify or narrow down here. This topic has probably come up for some of you before.
In one corner of the bathroom, measuring 270cm x 280cm (9ft x 9ft 2in), we want to install a walk-in shower with dimensions of 120cm x 90cm (47in x 35in). On the 90cm (35in) side, a wall frame system 20cm (8in) deep will be built up to the ceiling to accommodate the concealed fittings, overhead shower, etc. Right next to it, there will be a wall-hung toilet also with a 20cm (8in) deep frame system, but only about 120cm (47in) high.
The plumber suggested that the shower wall frame constructed by the drywall installer should definitely be wider than 90cm (35in), about 93cm (37in), in order to properly secure the shower enclosure. Otherwise, they said they would not accept liability for any damage to the tiles that could occur when fixing the shower enclosure.
After consulting with the drywall installer, he said this was not a problem at all and that the shower enclosure should fit exactly flush, so 90cm (35in) is required. He also mentioned that from an aesthetic point of view, a wider frame would look less appealing, and securing the enclosure is never an issue.
We are now a bit unsure; the drywall installer’s argument seems logical and definitely more attractive visually. When I think about installation, brackets are usually fixed at an L-shape to the wall and glass shower enclosure, mostly drilled inward into the shower rather than outward. So what exactly could cause damage? Alternatively, we are considering having the shower enclosure installed later by a different company, as the exact model hasn’t been decided yet.
Thanks in advance!
we are currently planning our bathroom and have an open question that I hope to clarify or narrow down here. This topic has probably come up for some of you before.
In one corner of the bathroom, measuring 270cm x 280cm (9ft x 9ft 2in), we want to install a walk-in shower with dimensions of 120cm x 90cm (47in x 35in). On the 90cm (35in) side, a wall frame system 20cm (8in) deep will be built up to the ceiling to accommodate the concealed fittings, overhead shower, etc. Right next to it, there will be a wall-hung toilet also with a 20cm (8in) deep frame system, but only about 120cm (47in) high.
The plumber suggested that the shower wall frame constructed by the drywall installer should definitely be wider than 90cm (35in), about 93cm (37in), in order to properly secure the shower enclosure. Otherwise, they said they would not accept liability for any damage to the tiles that could occur when fixing the shower enclosure.
After consulting with the drywall installer, he said this was not a problem at all and that the shower enclosure should fit exactly flush, so 90cm (35in) is required. He also mentioned that from an aesthetic point of view, a wider frame would look less appealing, and securing the enclosure is never an issue.
We are now a bit unsure; the drywall installer’s argument seems logical and definitely more attractive visually. When I think about installation, brackets are usually fixed at an L-shape to the wall and glass shower enclosure, mostly drilled inward into the shower rather than outward. So what exactly could cause damage? Alternatively, we are considering having the shower enclosure installed later by a different company, as the exact model hasn’t been decided yet.
Thanks in advance!
That can work, but it doesn’t have to. I did it the same way and later thought it was quite daring.
The tiler was very uncertain if it would work. However, we have wood studs and made sure that there was a stud aligned with the shower wall fixing point in the wall, so we used sufficiently long stainless steel screws. We also paid close attention to the tile arrangement at that spot to achieve a clean yet stable edge. It wasn’t easy, but the result is good. An important factor was that I managed the construction myself and was always on site during both trades (tiling and plumbing). Precise coordination with suppliers was necessary. So it was a lot of effort for what was basically a very small step. In hindsight, I probably could have allowed an extra 2–3cm (1 inch) on the wall and that would have been fine.
The argument that having a bit more overlap is better cannot be denied. The sweat on the plumber’s brow while fitting the fixtures showed me that. Very expensive glass-ceramic tiles are so hard that drilling close to an edge often causes them to crack.
Regards,
Markus
The tiler was very uncertain if it would work. However, we have wood studs and made sure that there was a stud aligned with the shower wall fixing point in the wall, so we used sufficiently long stainless steel screws. We also paid close attention to the tile arrangement at that spot to achieve a clean yet stable edge. It wasn’t easy, but the result is good. An important factor was that I managed the construction myself and was always on site during both trades (tiling and plumbing). Precise coordination with suppliers was necessary. So it was a lot of effort for what was basically a very small step. In hindsight, I probably could have allowed an extra 2–3cm (1 inch) on the wall and that would have been fine.
The argument that having a bit more overlap is better cannot be denied. The sweat on the plumber’s brow while fitting the fixtures showed me that. Very expensive glass-ceramic tiles are so hard that drilling close to an edge often causes them to crack.
Regards,
Markus
K
Knallkörper31 Jul 2017 13:54Is the shower tray not installed before tiling? In that case, the pre-wall construction would need to be 9 cm (3.5 inches) plus the thickness of the tiles and adhesive.
Hello
An overhang of 1 - 3 cm (0.4 - 1.2 inches) doesn’t help because the screw still won’t be driven into the wooden stud.
With a wall construction of, for example, 12 - 17 mm (0.5 - 0.7 inches) tile, two layers of 12.5 mm (0.5 inch) drywall or drywall and OSB, the fasteners remain in these materials.
I would attach the lower part of the strip with screws and glue the upper part.
Since the partition wall is fixed, I don’t expect any significant load there.
Olli
An overhang of 1 - 3 cm (0.4 - 1.2 inches) doesn’t help because the screw still won’t be driven into the wooden stud.
With a wall construction of, for example, 12 - 17 mm (0.5 - 0.7 inches) tile, two layers of 12.5 mm (0.5 inch) drywall or drywall and OSB, the fasteners remain in these materials.
I would attach the lower part of the strip with screws and glue the upper part.
Since the partition wall is fixed, I don’t expect any significant load there.
Olli
To revisit the topic...
We made our partition wall almost exactly 90cm (35 inches) wide (using drywall and tiles)... but I only realized afterwards that this caused a problem because the shower panel needs to be installed exactly where there is now no solid support. Since I ordered the partition wall online and installed it myself together with my dad, I became even more concerned... the 8mm (0.3 inch) glass was quite heavy as well.
In the end, it worked out well because the glass partitions are specified with standard dimensions (for example, 90x90cm (35x35 inches)), but in reality, they measure about 87.5x87.5cm (34.5x34.5 inches). The reason for this is that shower trays have dimensions of 90x90cm (35x35 inches), and the panels are mounted slightly inside them (see the picture in the second post). For custom-made glass from a glazier, this might not be the case, but they can be adapted to the specific situation.
This should also be taken into account with the floor tiles... our tiler used mosaic tiles in this area since it is a walk-in shower without a shower tray, also tiled to about 90x90cm (35x35 inches). However, the rubber seals and stainless steel rails mostly cover this area. Only a small section, about 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch), is visible beyond the shower panel... having 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) more would have looked quite awkward.
We made our partition wall almost exactly 90cm (35 inches) wide (using drywall and tiles)... but I only realized afterwards that this caused a problem because the shower panel needs to be installed exactly where there is now no solid support. Since I ordered the partition wall online and installed it myself together with my dad, I became even more concerned... the 8mm (0.3 inch) glass was quite heavy as well.
In the end, it worked out well because the glass partitions are specified with standard dimensions (for example, 90x90cm (35x35 inches)), but in reality, they measure about 87.5x87.5cm (34.5x34.5 inches). The reason for this is that shower trays have dimensions of 90x90cm (35x35 inches), and the panels are mounted slightly inside them (see the picture in the second post). For custom-made glass from a glazier, this might not be the case, but they can be adapted to the specific situation.
This should also be taken into account with the floor tiles... our tiler used mosaic tiles in this area since it is a walk-in shower without a shower tray, also tiled to about 90x90cm (35x35 inches). However, the rubber seals and stainless steel rails mostly cover this area. Only a small section, about 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch), is visible beyond the shower panel... having 1-2cm (0.4-0.8 inch) more would have looked quite awkward.
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