Hello everyone, some time ago I bought several Malm pieces of furniture from Ikea, mainly the dressers and nightstands. I noticed that the finish seems to be relatively sensitive. Minor scratches or chipping appear more quickly than I am used to with other lacquered furniture.
I am curious: Why is the finish on Malm furniture often so delicate? Is it due to the material composition, the painting method, or perhaps the surface treatment? I have heard that it might be a kind of lacquer film or a special sealant that is not as durable as traditional furniture lacquer.
Does anyone here have experience with this or know more about how the finish is made and the best ways to avoid potential damage? Thanks in advance!
I am curious: Why is the finish on Malm furniture often so delicate? Is it due to the material composition, the painting method, or perhaps the surface treatment? I have heard that it might be a kind of lacquer film or a special sealant that is not as durable as traditional furniture lacquer.
Does anyone here have experience with this or know more about how the finish is made and the best ways to avoid potential damage? Thanks in advance!
Thanks for your detailed answers so far!
@Nathanaelk and @kaubi: I mostly have the furniture in the living room and bedroom, mainly used as a surface for decorations, books, or lamps. Sometimes I place items on the dressers, but never heavy or sharp objects.
I clean them with a damp microfiber cloth and a mild all-purpose cleaner—nothing abrasive or highly chemical. Still, small scratches appear, which sometimes can be seen upon close inspection and seem to result from normal use.
I read somewhere about a kind of lacquer film laminated onto the particleboard. Maybe that’s the weak point, since the film isn’t really bonded firmly to the wood panel? This could mean that slight expansion or impacts cause small chips.
Is there a common way to repair such furniture at all, or does the surface need to be completely redone if it gets damaged?
@Nathanaelk and @kaubi: I mostly have the furniture in the living room and bedroom, mainly used as a surface for decorations, books, or lamps. Sometimes I place items on the dressers, but never heavy or sharp objects.
I clean them with a damp microfiber cloth and a mild all-purpose cleaner—nothing abrasive or highly chemical. Still, small scratches appear, which sometimes can be seen upon close inspection and seem to result from normal use.
I read somewhere about a kind of lacquer film laminated onto the particleboard. Maybe that’s the weak point, since the film isn’t really bonded firmly to the wood panel? This could mean that slight expansion or impacts cause small chips.
Is there a common way to repair such furniture at all, or does the surface need to be completely redone if it gets damaged?
Very good question!
One point that no one has directly mentioned yet: In affordable furniture like Malm, there is often a so-called "edge banding" made of plastic or foil that is applied to the edges of the panels. These edges are often the weak spot in the finish because plastic foil is glued onto the panel there, making this area more prone to cracks or chipping.
These manufacturing methods are designed to reduce costs while still providing an attractive look. Especially on furniture with large surfaces and many edges, most damage occurs here.
Repair options do exist, but they are usually limited to minor scratches (for example, using furniture touch-up markers). For more significant damage, the surface would need to be completely refinished or re-laminated, which is labor-intensive. Some users also recommend decorative protective films or self-adhesive surface protection films as retrofitting options.
One point that no one has directly mentioned yet: In affordable furniture like Malm, there is often a so-called "edge banding" made of plastic or foil that is applied to the edges of the panels. These edges are often the weak spot in the finish because plastic foil is glued onto the panel there, making this area more prone to cracks or chipping.
These manufacturing methods are designed to reduce costs while still providing an attractive look. Especially on furniture with large surfaces and many edges, most damage occurs here.
Repair options do exist, but they are usually limited to minor scratches (for example, using furniture touch-up markers). For more significant damage, the surface would need to be completely refinished or re-laminated, which is labor-intensive. Some users also recommend decorative protective films or self-adhesive surface protection films as retrofitting options.
Hey, this sounds really interesting! 🙂
I recently faced the same issue because I wanted to protect the appearance of my Malm bed. I ended up getting a thin protective film designed for furniture surfaces. It’s inexpensive and really makes a difference.
I would say that for significant damage, it’s better to replace the part or have it professionally refinished (if you’re willing to cover the cost). For small scratches or dents, you can use furniture touch-up markers, wax filler sticks, or protective films. This definitely helps maintain the enjoyment of using your furniture and protects what you have.
So, don’t worry! 🙂 There are quite a few ways to protect the finish of delicate furniture.
I recently faced the same issue because I wanted to protect the appearance of my Malm bed. I ended up getting a thin protective film designed for furniture surfaces. It’s inexpensive and really makes a difference.
tauchase schrieb:
"Is there really a normal repair option for this type of furniture, or does the surface have to be completely redone if it gets damaged?"
I would say that for significant damage, it’s better to replace the part or have it professionally refinished (if you’re willing to cover the cost). For small scratches or dents, you can use furniture touch-up markers, wax filler sticks, or protective films. This definitely helps maintain the enjoyment of using your furniture and protects what you have.
So, don’t worry! 🙂 There are quite a few ways to protect the finish of delicate furniture.
N
Nathanaelk5 May 2023 15:35Great to see the thread doing so well! I’d like to briefly add a few technical points:
- The lacquer film and melamine surfaces are thermally hardened, but their flexibility and adhesion to the substrate boards are lower compared to multi-layered paint coatings.
- Temperature and humidity fluctuations can cause slight swelling of the particleboard, which then creates stress on the films or edges, promoting chipping.
- Industrially produced surfaces follow an economic principle: visual quality is high, but durability is limited for normal use.
I’ve summarized this because it’s often not just due to “improper” use, but also related to the physical properties of the materials:
Exactly. The layer is under stress, and adhesion is limited by the glue. Small movements are enough to weaken the surface.
How about your manufacturing tolerances? Are the furniture edges all cleanly glued, or have you noticed any unevenness there?
- The lacquer film and melamine surfaces are thermally hardened, but their flexibility and adhesion to the substrate boards are lower compared to multi-layered paint coatings.
- Temperature and humidity fluctuations can cause slight swelling of the particleboard, which then creates stress on the films or edges, promoting chipping.
- Industrially produced surfaces follow an economic principle: visual quality is high, but durability is limited for normal use.
I’ve summarized this because it’s often not just due to “improper” use, but also related to the physical properties of the materials:
tauchase schrieb:
"I read somewhere about a kind of lacquer film laminated onto the particleboard. Maybe that’s the weak point because the film isn’t really anchored to the wood panel?"
Exactly. The layer is under stress, and adhesion is limited by the glue. Small movements are enough to weaken the surface.
How about your manufacturing tolerances? Are the furniture edges all cleanly glued, or have you noticed any unevenness there?
Thanks again to everyone, you’ve given me a lot of new perspectives!
Now that you mention the temperature fluctuations and stresses, I realize my furniture is in a room that is heated unevenly. Especially in winter, the humidity can be quite low, which could suddenly lead to increased stresses.
@Nathanaelk I haven’t noticed any major adhesive or workmanship defects on the edges. Everything looks solid and cleanly finished, with no bubbles or unevenness. Still, small dents and cracks seem to appear when I push against it with more force or quickly set down a heavier book.
Is there a professional way to “strengthen” the finish or apply thicker protective coatings afterward? I doubt Ikea offers any repair kits themselves.
Now that you mention the temperature fluctuations and stresses, I realize my furniture is in a room that is heated unevenly. Especially in winter, the humidity can be quite low, which could suddenly lead to increased stresses.
@Nathanaelk I haven’t noticed any major adhesive or workmanship defects on the edges. Everything looks solid and cleanly finished, with no bubbles or unevenness. Still, small dents and cracks seem to appear when I push against it with more force or quickly set down a heavier book.
Is there a professional way to “strengthen” the finish or apply thicker protective coatings afterward? I doubt Ikea offers any repair kits themselves.
What you are looking for is often called a "sealant" or "clear coat refresher." For surfaces similar to furniture films, this is quite tricky because the new finish has difficulty adhering to the existing surface.
The standard procedure used by professional furniture restorers is:
1. Lightly sand and clean small areas
2. Apply special adhesion primers
3. Apply a transparent, flexible synthetic resin finish (e.g., polyurethane)
However, the film may swell or discolor due to the chemical treatment. Therefore, be sure to test in an inconspicuous area first.
Alternatively, you can use surface protection films or clear table protective mats that absorb mechanical wear.
One of these steps is not a typical DIY task, especially since it can become expensive. For everyday use, the key advice is to use furniture carefully and always work with soft pads underneath.
The standard procedure used by professional furniture restorers is:
1. Lightly sand and clean small areas
2. Apply special adhesion primers
3. Apply a transparent, flexible synthetic resin finish (e.g., polyurethane)
However, the film may swell or discolor due to the chemical treatment. Therefore, be sure to test in an inconspicuous area first.
Alternatively, you can use surface protection films or clear table protective mats that absorb mechanical wear.
One of these steps is not a typical DIY task, especially since it can become expensive. For everyday use, the key advice is to use furniture carefully and always work with soft pads underneath.
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