By installing a cistern with an emergency overflow connected to the sewage system, we can reduce the rainwater charge to 10% of the usual estimated amount. If the overflow is directed to infiltration, it can even be reduced to 0%. This would save us about €250-300 per year, which is why we are interested in installing a cistern.
Unfortunately, there are many different suppliers, options, and prices available here, so my question is: What did you pay attention to when purchasing, what can you recommend or not recommend, and what were your prices?
Our key requirements:
- We would like a capacity of around 6000-7000 liters (1600-1850 gallons), as we have a large garden with many beds.
- A convenient withdrawal point is essential for us; preferably a pump with good pressure and a type of faucet that can be mounted at waist height.
- So far, I am leaning toward a concrete cistern.
Unfortunately, there are many different suppliers, options, and prices available here, so my question is: What did you pay attention to when purchasing, what can you recommend or not recommend, and what were your prices?
Our key requirements:
- We would like a capacity of around 6000-7000 liters (1600-1850 gallons), as we have a large garden with many beds.
- A convenient withdrawal point is essential for us; preferably a pump with good pressure and a type of faucet that can be mounted at waist height.
- So far, I am leaning toward a concrete cistern.
G
Gartenfreund18 Jul 2018 18:09The tank I installed is a 4000-liter (1057 gallon) tank, currently costing about 730 €.
There is probably only a small price difference between a concrete and a plastic cistern. However, when it comes to weight, a concrete one is several tons heavier. So, you cannot install it yourself, whereas a plastic tank can be installed by one person. For concrete, you will need a crane or something similar.
I deliberately chose not to include a calm inlet because I did not install a filter.
There is probably only a small price difference between a concrete and a plastic cistern. However, when it comes to weight, a concrete one is several tons heavier. So, you cannot install it yourself, whereas a plastic tank can be installed by one person. For concrete, you will need a crane or something similar.
I deliberately chose not to include a calm inlet because I did not install a filter.
B
Bieber081518 Jul 2018 18:24We have a concrete cistern, and I am very satisfied with it. I cannot comment on the costs as it was included in the house construction.
For water demand (which is relevant here in the garden), I would always recommend a cistern with an overflow to infiltration (not an infiltration well, which some offer). The infiltration can be done, for example, using a soakaway trench. And if earthworks are done anyway for the cistern, adding infiltration doesn’t add much effort (so no overflow into the metered wastewater system).
If the water is only used in the garden, filters or other special measures at the inlet are, in my opinion, not necessary. It is a different matter if the water is to be used inside the house.
Regarding the pump, I can add some information. There are two options: a submersible pump or a (self-priming) pump installed above ground, outside the cistern. In both cases, I recommend a floating intake to always draw the cleanest water possible. We have an external pump, a so-called domestic water booster. When you open the tap (the draw-off point) on the pressure side, the pump switches on automatically and supplies water. It doesn’t get more convenient than that.
Installation in brief: floating intake; pressure-resistant suction hose, pump, pressure hose, and outlet. Specifically, we have a permanently installed suction hose from the cistern to the garage (through a core drill hole), where it connects to the pump using a "Gardena" type connector. The pressure hose runs back out through the same hole and ends at a faucet mounted “at working height” on a post. In winter, I disconnect the fittings and empty the pump. That’s it. Of course, any branching is possible on the pressure side. (Choose the pump’s delivery height and flow rate accordingly).
For water demand (which is relevant here in the garden), I would always recommend a cistern with an overflow to infiltration (not an infiltration well, which some offer). The infiltration can be done, for example, using a soakaway trench. And if earthworks are done anyway for the cistern, adding infiltration doesn’t add much effort (so no overflow into the metered wastewater system).
If the water is only used in the garden, filters or other special measures at the inlet are, in my opinion, not necessary. It is a different matter if the water is to be used inside the house.
Regarding the pump, I can add some information. There are two options: a submersible pump or a (self-priming) pump installed above ground, outside the cistern. In both cases, I recommend a floating intake to always draw the cleanest water possible. We have an external pump, a so-called domestic water booster. When you open the tap (the draw-off point) on the pressure side, the pump switches on automatically and supplies water. It doesn’t get more convenient than that.
Installation in brief: floating intake; pressure-resistant suction hose, pump, pressure hose, and outlet. Specifically, we have a permanently installed suction hose from the cistern to the garage (through a core drill hole), where it connects to the pump using a "Gardena" type connector. The pressure hose runs back out through the same hole and ends at a faucet mounted “at working height” on a post. In winter, I disconnect the fittings and empty the pump. That’s it. Of course, any branching is possible on the pressure side. (Choose the pump’s delivery height and flow rate accordingly).
Hello changeling
I’m just seeing the thread now.
I have a 10m³ (13 cubic yards) concrete cistern. Planned it right from the start of house construction. It cost about 2,000 euros including delivery and installation into the pit. I would need to check the company in my documents if you want. But it was already 10 years ago. The reach from the edge of the truck to the pit was a little over 2 meters (6.5 feet). That was just barely manageable, so the truck has to get close.
Otherwise, it’s the same setup as Biber’s.
Always crystal-clear, cool water. Never a single algae in it.
Steven
I’m just seeing the thread now.
I have a 10m³ (13 cubic yards) concrete cistern. Planned it right from the start of house construction. It cost about 2,000 euros including delivery and installation into the pit. I would need to check the company in my documents if you want. But it was already 10 years ago. The reach from the edge of the truck to the pit was a little over 2 meters (6.5 feet). That was just barely manageable, so the truck has to get close.
Otherwise, it’s the same setup as Biber’s.
Always crystal-clear, cool water. Never a single algae in it.
Steven
G
garfunkel6 Aug 2018 19:50We also have a concrete cistern. It should be about 20 years old by now, but unfortunately it has developed a leak somewhere...
As far as I know, there are no algae, and algae can be ruled out as long as the cistern remains completely light-tight.
As far as I know, there are no algae, and algae can be ruled out as long as the cistern remains completely light-tight.
G
garfunkel7 Aug 2018 17:29Is the paint simply a type of liquid membrane?
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