ᐅ Which type of brick is recommended when building with facing bricks (clinker bricks)?
Created on: 3 Mar 2011 08:15
M
Martin_SHello,
My wife and I are considering building a house, and initially, we planned to have the exterior walls finished with plaster. Since we both like the idea of occasionally mounting things like lamps or mailboxes on the outside wall, we quickly decided that the exterior walls should be made of solid aerated concrete. This was also recommended to us because different materials react differently to temperature changes, which can cause energy loss.
However, now we want to have our house clad with brick veneer, and the building specification for brick cladding calls for thinner blocks with a lot of insulation. Personally, I wonder whether it wouldn’t be better to still use the solid aerated concrete wall and then add the brick veneer on top, instead of exterior plaster.
So my question is: What is the reason for changing the structure of the exterior wall when using brick veneer?
By the way, my suspicion that this would reduce the thickness of the exterior wall was unfortunately not confirmed. Both exterior wall setups have the same thickness (not including the brick veneer).
Thank you very much for your help.
Best regards
Martin
My wife and I are considering building a house, and initially, we planned to have the exterior walls finished with plaster. Since we both like the idea of occasionally mounting things like lamps or mailboxes on the outside wall, we quickly decided that the exterior walls should be made of solid aerated concrete. This was also recommended to us because different materials react differently to temperature changes, which can cause energy loss.
However, now we want to have our house clad with brick veneer, and the building specification for brick cladding calls for thinner blocks with a lot of insulation. Personally, I wonder whether it wouldn’t be better to still use the solid aerated concrete wall and then add the brick veneer on top, instead of exterior plaster.
So my question is: What is the reason for changing the structure of the exterior wall when using brick veneer?
By the way, my suspicion that this would reduce the thickness of the exterior wall was unfortunately not confirmed. Both exterior wall setups have the same thickness (not including the brick veneer).
Thank you very much for your help.
Best regards
Martin
Hello,
the U-value was not provided to us, but it will be a KfW70 house. I believe the wall thickness was about 40 cm (16 inches). (So the U-value will be around 0.20 W/m²K)
...but in principle, it should also be possible to leave an air gap between the facing brick and the solid wall.
So, what is the purpose of the different wall constructions?
Maybe it’s mainly about the thickness of the exterior wall?
Best regards
Martin
the U-value was not provided to us, but it will be a KfW70 house. I believe the wall thickness was about 40 cm (16 inches). (So the U-value will be around 0.20 W/m²K)
...but in principle, it should also be possible to leave an air gap between the facing brick and the solid wall.
So, what is the purpose of the different wall constructions?
Maybe it’s mainly about the thickness of the exterior wall?
Best regards
Martin
So the U-value does not result from the wall thickness, but from the materials and their thickness, etc.
Aerated concrete + air cavity + brick veneer will not work because the aerated concrete would be somewhat unprotected and it absorbs water.
But this is just my layman’s thought; I’m sure the experts here will have more to add!
Aerated concrete + air cavity + brick veneer will not work because the aerated concrete would be somewhat unprotected and it absorbs water.
But this is just my layman’s thought; I’m sure the experts here will have more to add!
Hello,
it would be interesting to know the exact composition of your wall. As blurboy already mentioned, the U-value depends not only on the thickness of the masonry but also on the properties of the materials used. If you build a single-layer solid wall, it needs to be relatively thick to achieve a specific U-value. However, if you add a facing brick or cladding to your facade, it makes sense to dimension the backing wall (the load-bearing part of your exterior wall) slightly narrower and include insulation followed by an air cavity.
Regards
it would be interesting to know the exact composition of your wall. As blurboy already mentioned, the U-value depends not only on the thickness of the masonry but also on the properties of the materials used. If you build a single-layer solid wall, it needs to be relatively thick to achieve a specific U-value. However, if you add a facing brick or cladding to your facade, it makes sense to dimension the backing wall (the load-bearing part of your exterior wall) slightly narrower and include insulation followed by an air cavity.
Regards
Hello,
As far as I have seen, the solid wall is built up as follows:
(from inside to outside)
Interior plaster
Aerated concrete block (about 37 cm (15 inches))
Exterior plaster
For the brick veneer wall, as follows:
(from inside to outside)
Interior plaster
Aerated concrete block (about 20 cm (8 inches))
Insulation material
Air gap
Brick veneer
From what I understand in the answers, the goal is to maintain relatively high thermal insulation performance—that is, a low U-value—with a rather thin exterior wall.
In principle, a different wall structure is not necessary if there is an air gap between the brick veneer and the "masonry" (aerated concrete block or insulation material).
Is there possibly a cost aspect here? What is ultimately more cost-effective? A solid wall with aerated concrete, or a thinner solid wall with a lot of insulation?
Best regards
Martin
...then it definitely makes sense to make the cavity wall (the load-bearing part of your exterior wall) somewhat narrower...So is it only about the thickness of the masonry?
As far as I have seen, the solid wall is built up as follows:
(from inside to outside)
Interior plaster
Aerated concrete block (about 37 cm (15 inches))
Exterior plaster
For the brick veneer wall, as follows:
(from inside to outside)
Interior plaster
Aerated concrete block (about 20 cm (8 inches))
Insulation material
Air gap
Brick veneer
From what I understand in the answers, the goal is to maintain relatively high thermal insulation performance—that is, a low U-value—with a rather thin exterior wall.
In principle, a different wall structure is not necessary if there is an air gap between the brick veneer and the "masonry" (aerated concrete block or insulation material).
Is there possibly a cost aspect here? What is ultimately more cost-effective? A solid wall with aerated concrete, or a thinner solid wall with a lot of insulation?
Best regards
Martin
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