Hello everyone,
we need to start giving the electrician instructions on what to install where and how to configure it.
I could use some guidance on what makes sense where and would like to ask you KNX users how you use it. Which sensors can be used in a basic way (without advanced components, as our electrician can’t handle that, and I will have to do that myself later) for the classic applications?
I am mainly interested in the following:
1. Presence detectors (PD)
2. Motion sensors (MS)
3. Switched sockets/outlets
we need to start giving the electrician instructions on what to install where and how to configure it.
I could use some guidance on what makes sense where and would like to ask you KNX users how you use it. Which sensors can be used in a basic way (without advanced components, as our electrician can’t handle that, and I will have to do that myself later) for the classic applications?
I am mainly interested in the following:
1. Presence detectors (PD)
2. Motion sensors (MS)
3. Switched sockets/outlets
untergasse4328 Apr 2020 10:23Where are you building? Maybe we can find a recommendation for a good structural engineer there.
So, now at last I have time to write without rushing, which I couldn’t do before. I don’t think it’s as bad as you might have understood it. As mentioned earlier, there is a plan and a room schedule. These are his suggestions and they’re already quite good.
Soon we will walk through the house with the electrician to decide exactly where everything should go: which outlets should be switchable, which ones normal, where each type of switch should be placed, where the presence detectors (PM) will be, where ceiling lights will go, and so on.
Of course, I have already dealt with the topic myself as much as possible. I think I have at least thought it through enough to understand the system and, above all, the purpose behind it. To say I can do it would be presumptuous, but everyone has to start somewhere.
The goal is to equip the house so that everything is controllable and functional. And that is how it is planned. By purchasing our own ETS (engineering tool software), we want to gradually adapt the components to our own living habits. It will take work, but I think it could also become a hobby for me.
Before we go through the house with the electrician, we would appreciate some inspiration — things you use and say, "this is really cool." Also, what you need to implement it yourself. As well as things you mustn’t forget; a few have already been mentioned above. Stefan Heinle’s book already covers a lot, but maybe you have other interesting approaches.
Soon we will walk through the house with the electrician to decide exactly where everything should go: which outlets should be switchable, which ones normal, where each type of switch should be placed, where the presence detectors (PM) will be, where ceiling lights will go, and so on.
Of course, I have already dealt with the topic myself as much as possible. I think I have at least thought it through enough to understand the system and, above all, the purpose behind it. To say I can do it would be presumptuous, but everyone has to start somewhere.
The goal is to equip the house so that everything is controllable and functional. And that is how it is planned. By purchasing our own ETS (engineering tool software), we want to gradually adapt the components to our own living habits. It will take work, but I think it could also become a hobby for me.
Before we go through the house with the electrician, we would appreciate some inspiration — things you use and say, "this is really cool." Also, what you need to implement it yourself. As well as things you mustn’t forget; a few have already been mentioned above. Stefan Heinle’s book already covers a lot, but maybe you have other interesting approaches.
untergasse43 schrieb:Cologne/Bonn/Rhein-Sieg district
Where are you building? Maybe we can find a tip for a good systems integrator.
Tarnari schrieb:
Where a switchable socket, where a regular oneFrom my later experience – you will always want it different afterwards. It’s best to wire as many sockets as possible so that you can reprogram which ones are switchable later in the ETS. You don’t need a switch for each socket. By the way, this was one of our big mistakes: we thought about everything that should be switchable and then assigned a switch position for each. This leads to an endless number of switches, which we no longer need today thanks to scenes. The same goes for the venetian blinds – one switch for each (in the living room, 6 switches with rocker switches, so 6 rockers) and today I use exactly 4 scenes (with single buttons). Alternatively, there are switches with multiple levels or room temperature controllers with displays that can also show control levels. And then there’s the visualization…
RomeoZwo schrieb:
From my later experience – you always want to change things afterwards. It’s best to wire as many as possible so that you can reprogram them later in the ETS to be switchable or not. You don’t need a physical switch for each one.
That was actually one of our big mistakes. We planned what should be switchable and then assigned a switch position for everything. This led to a huge number of switches, which we no longer need thanks to scenes. The same goes for the blinds – one switch for each (in the living room, 6 pieces with rocker switches, so 6 rockers), and today I only use 4 scenes (with single buttons). Alternatively, there are also switches with multiple layers or room temperature controllers with displays that can show switching levels. And then there is also the visualization... I probably didn’t express myself clearly. By switchable, I don’t mean switches in the traditional sense. The plan is to install a smart button from MDT only in the rooms that are frequently used. The rest should be handled via actuator modules (PMs). By switchable, I meant switching via the bus system, not manually.
For example: from time to time, I spend time trying to figure out how to integrate our Logitech Harmony system. So far, the idea is: a socket that detects voltage changes, i.e., realizes “OK, no standby on the TV” → Harmony starts all relevant devices → socket sends “increased power flow” to the bus → bus sends blinds down, lights on/off as programmed.
I’m currently trying to devise such things mentally and, of course, considering what I need for that and where.
Another example: I’m thinking about using the Steinel True Presence actuator module (PM) in the living/dining area. It also has temperature and CO2 sensors, among others. How could this module be used most advantageously...
Maybe it’s now clearer what kind of inspiration we’re currently looking for...
RomeoZwo schrieb:
From my later experience – you’ll always want to do it differently eventually. It’s best to wire as many as possible so you can reprogram them later in the ETS to decide which ones should be switchable. You don’t need a separate switch for every single one.
By the way, that was one of our big mistakes: we thought about what should be switchable and then assigned a switch position for everything. That leads to a huge number of switches, which we no longer need thanks to scenes. The same goes for the roller shutters – one switch for each (6 rocker switches in the living room, so 6 rockers), and now I only use 4 scenes (with individual buttons). Alternatively, there are switches with multiple levels or room temperature controllers with displays that can show different switching levels. And then there’s the visualization as well... @Notstrom
Regarding Logitech Harmony and KNX.
I solved this with the Merten Argus PM 630919.
It has an integrated IR receiver and is listed in Logitech’s database. When the TV is turned on, a group address is sent to indicate the TV is on, and vice versa. There is almost no malfunction as long as the remote is pointed roughly in the right direction.
A nice side effect: I can also trigger other functions on the bus with the remote.
For example, we turn on the lighting when needed, which is normally off due to the locked PM while the TV is on.
The drawback is that the 4 smart home buttons on my remote only work when an action is running in Logitech.
If everything is turned off, the buttons unfortunately don’t function.
I solved this with the Merten Argus PM 630919.
It has an integrated IR receiver and is listed in Logitech’s database. When the TV is turned on, a group address is sent to indicate the TV is on, and vice versa. There is almost no malfunction as long as the remote is pointed roughly in the right direction.
A nice side effect: I can also trigger other functions on the bus with the remote.
For example, we turn on the lighting when needed, which is normally off due to the locked PM while the TV is on.
The drawback is that the 4 smart home buttons on my remote only work when an action is running in Logitech.
If everything is turned off, the buttons unfortunately don’t function.
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