Hello,
I am planning to pave my driveway soon. Now I am considering how deep to lay the gravel base. For frost protection, I will use gravel with a grain size of 0/32. I am thinking about 20 to 25 cm (8 to 10 inches) – would that be sufficient?
Thank you for your information.
I am planning to pave my driveway soon. Now I am considering how deep to lay the gravel base. For frost protection, I will use gravel with a grain size of 0/32. I am thinking about 20 to 25 cm (8 to 10 inches) – would that be sufficient?
Thank you for your information.
K
Kurt1985-16 May 2014 23:30Hello Marcel,
Quartzite is also very pressure-resistant and a wear-resistant material. Choose an affordable local supplier. Then you can calculate the costs for both types and decide which is better. For the subbase, it doesn’t make a big difference. In my opinion, the decision ultimately comes down to cost.
For both, ask for the sieve curve, which shows, among other things, how much fine material is included. The fine content (grain size < 0.063 mm) should not exceed 5% by mass, otherwise the water permeability is too low. This is a general guideline; the technical specifications of the surface layer manufacturer may specify something different. For recycled crushed limestone (RCL), the proportion of brick chippings should also be low because bricks act capillary – even when crushed.
Chippings without fine material—as offered to you with 2/5 (grain size)—have high infiltration capacity but are less compactable. This is sometimes called “eco-laying.” In my opinion, this would only be an option if the subbase has poor infiltration capability. With 80 to 100 cm (31 to 39 inches) of mineral mixture / RCL, it should work, as with proper slope only a small portion of the rainwater entering the joints actually infiltrates.
What kind of surface layer do you want to install? What does the manufacturer specify for the bedding and joints?
Best regards
Quartzite is also very pressure-resistant and a wear-resistant material. Choose an affordable local supplier. Then you can calculate the costs for both types and decide which is better. For the subbase, it doesn’t make a big difference. In my opinion, the decision ultimately comes down to cost.
For both, ask for the sieve curve, which shows, among other things, how much fine material is included. The fine content (grain size < 0.063 mm) should not exceed 5% by mass, otherwise the water permeability is too low. This is a general guideline; the technical specifications of the surface layer manufacturer may specify something different. For recycled crushed limestone (RCL), the proportion of brick chippings should also be low because bricks act capillary – even when crushed.
Chippings without fine material—as offered to you with 2/5 (grain size)—have high infiltration capacity but are less compactable. This is sometimes called “eco-laying.” In my opinion, this would only be an option if the subbase has poor infiltration capability. With 80 to 100 cm (31 to 39 inches) of mineral mixture / RCL, it should work, as with proper slope only a small portion of the rainwater entering the joints actually infiltrates.
What kind of surface layer do you want to install? What does the manufacturer specify for the bedding and joints?
Best regards
The topic of frost protection is always a special issue. I know craftsmen and construction companies who swear that it is nonsense. However, the technical guidelines from manufacturers do emphasize frost protection. This is often where savings are made, and after winter, people see what condition the paving area is in. In the past, cobblestones were placed directly on topsoil. Today, of course, the load is different.
K
Kurt1985-19 May 2014 09:04Hello Marcel,
I’m glad I can help you. Whether frost protection is necessary always depends on the region. However, I take it seriously; otherwise, a lot of work would be wasted. For me, the substructure is especially important. But that is something everyone has to decide for themselves.
Best regards
I’m glad I can help you. Whether frost protection is necessary always depends on the region. However, I take it seriously; otherwise, a lot of work would be wasted. For me, the substructure is especially important. But that is something everyone has to decide for themselves.
Best regards
Hello,
Thank you for your response. We have now found a good local supplier. The question of frost protection naturally also arises. I’m not sure if I will implement it that way. So far, I am considering the 20cm (8 inches) base layer. The other option will become quite expensive.
Best regards
Thank you for your response. We have now found a good local supplier. The question of frost protection naturally also arises. I’m not sure if I will implement it that way. So far, I am considering the 20cm (8 inches) base layer. The other option will become quite expensive.
Best regards
K
Kurt1985-111 May 2014 06:55Hello Marcel,
Of course, if you take frost protection into account, that already makes a difference in price. But especially during the recent excavations, I found quite a bit of brick rubble and construction debris. What comes to light there is really quite bad. Roots are often among it, too. It’s also important to incorporate the correct slope in the substructure.
Well then, enjoy your work.
Of course, if you take frost protection into account, that already makes a difference in price. But especially during the recent excavations, I found quite a bit of brick rubble and construction debris. What comes to light there is really quite bad. Roots are often among it, too. It’s also important to incorporate the correct slope in the substructure.
Well then, enjoy your work.
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