ᐅ Which impact sound insulation is suitable for underfloor heating?
Created on: 8 Nov 2017 10:14
C
CurlyHello,
we are about to install laminate or engineered wood flooring in the children's rooms and the master bedroom area. So far, we have always used a 5mm (0.2 inch) impact sound insulation underlay or fully glued the parquet. However, now that we have underfloor heating, the floor build-up should allow heat to pass through as efficiently as possible.
Is there a specific type of impact sound insulation that works well with underfloor heating, and what thickness would you recommend? Have you had good experiences with certain products?
Best regards,
Sabine
we are about to install laminate or engineered wood flooring in the children's rooms and the master bedroom area. So far, we have always used a 5mm (0.2 inch) impact sound insulation underlay or fully glued the parquet. However, now that we have underfloor heating, the floor build-up should allow heat to pass through as efficiently as possible.
Is there a specific type of impact sound insulation that works well with underfloor heating, and what thickness would you recommend? Have you had good experiences with certain products?
Best regards,
Sabine
S
sauerpeter9 Nov 2017 16:07Take a look at the individual materials; there is always a legend indicating whether they are suitable for underfloor heating or not, and if so, how well.
You can find suitable mats at any hardware store, building materials supplier, or specialty flooring retailer. It’s a good idea to get advice at different stores.
We use laminate flooring from BHK, so we also have an impact sound insulation mat that is 1.8mm (0.07 inches) thick with a vapor-tight underside, which is fully sealed to a vapor-tight surface using special aluminum adhesive tape.
Alternatively, there is a very similar membrane from Parador, as well as other manufacturers. Both cost about 4€/m² (approximately 0.37 USD/ft²).
Usually, these membranes only indicate whether they are suitable for underfloor heating, but do not specify their thermal resistance (R-value). This information can be quite difficult to obtain, so it’s best to ask the manufacturer directly.
In my experience, sales consultants tend not to be very strict about this and usually sell whatever product is available in the store. They are not very concerned about small differences in thermal resistance, for example, values differing by 0.01 or so. I also can’t judge whether or how much these differences actually make a difference in the end.
We use laminate flooring from BHK, so we also have an impact sound insulation mat that is 1.8mm (0.07 inches) thick with a vapor-tight underside, which is fully sealed to a vapor-tight surface using special aluminum adhesive tape.
Alternatively, there is a very similar membrane from Parador, as well as other manufacturers. Both cost about 4€/m² (approximately 0.37 USD/ft²).
Usually, these membranes only indicate whether they are suitable for underfloor heating, but do not specify their thermal resistance (R-value). This information can be quite difficult to obtain, so it’s best to ask the manufacturer directly.
In my experience, sales consultants tend not to be very strict about this and usually sell whatever product is available in the store. They are not very concerned about small differences in thermal resistance, for example, values differing by 0.01 or so. I also can’t judge whether or how much these differences actually make a difference in the end.
Hello Sabine,
in principle, I recommend fully gluing parquet flooring. It provides better thermal transfer, which means lower heating costs, fewer tensions and gaps, quieter footsteps (within the room), and easier sanding, among other benefits.
Laminate flooring is generally not suitable for gluing because a) manufacturers usually prohibit it, and b) economically (cost of adhesive versus laminate price) it would be quite impractical.
For laminate (or parquet if you prefer), choose an underlayment with a very low thermal resistance (not to be confused with the thermal transmittance coefficient). A value of 0.01 m²K/W or less is recommended (top values are around 0.004 m²K/W). For comparison: 2 mm (0.08 inches) cork has 0.040 m²K/W, as does standard foam underlay—so that's 4 to 10 times higher.
The ideal thickness for underlayments is between 1.5 and 3 mm (0.06 to 0.12 inches).
Examples include products from HARO:
Silent Pro DS
Silent Energy DS
Silent Eco DS
Or from Parador:
Akustik Protect 100
in principle, I recommend fully gluing parquet flooring. It provides better thermal transfer, which means lower heating costs, fewer tensions and gaps, quieter footsteps (within the room), and easier sanding, among other benefits.
Laminate flooring is generally not suitable for gluing because a) manufacturers usually prohibit it, and b) economically (cost of adhesive versus laminate price) it would be quite impractical.
For laminate (or parquet if you prefer), choose an underlayment with a very low thermal resistance (not to be confused with the thermal transmittance coefficient). A value of 0.01 m²K/W or less is recommended (top values are around 0.004 m²K/W). For comparison: 2 mm (0.08 inches) cork has 0.040 m²K/W, as does standard foam underlay—so that's 4 to 10 times higher.
The ideal thickness for underlayments is between 1.5 and 3 mm (0.06 to 0.12 inches).
Examples include products from HARO:
Silent Pro DS
Silent Energy DS
Silent Eco DS
Or from Parador:
Akustik Protect 100
If you choose the one from Parador, it would be the Acoustic Protect 100 (1.8mm (0.07 inches)). This thickness is completely sufficient for the expected surface condition of the heated screed. A thicker underlay would only be necessary for extremely rough, grainy surfaces.
The 2.8mm (0.11 inches) version does offer better impact sound insulation (but the 1.8mm (0.07 inches) is also very good!) though it has only half the compressive strength. Personally, I consider stability more important.
In the end, you can’t really go "wrong" with either option.
Both have the advantage of an integrated vapor barrier (aluminum side facing upwards!).
The 2.8mm (0.11 inches) version does offer better impact sound insulation (but the 1.8mm (0.07 inches) is also very good!) though it has only half the compressive strength. Personally, I consider stability more important.
In the end, you can’t really go "wrong" with either option.
Both have the advantage of an integrated vapor barrier (aluminum side facing upwards!).
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