ᐅ Very low installation height with underfloor heating in an older building
Created on: 14 Jul 2022 21:36
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Chrizz72
Good evening,
I have the following "problem" regarding the floor construction in an older building. After removing the old mastic asphalt, we found that the total buildup height including the covering was 50/55mm (2–2.2 inches). A new height of up to 70mm (2.75 inches) would still be just acceptable, especially regarding the door frame height and the transition to the stairwell. An underfloor heating system with 15mm (0.6 inches) pipes is planned to be installed.
I have done some research and discussed options. My preferred solution looks like this:
- Studded insulation panel (including 10mm (0.4 inches) insulation and embedding of the heating pipes): 30mm (1.2 inches)
- Thin-layer screed: with at least 20mm (0.8 inches) coverage over the studs
- Glued parquet flooring: 10mm (0.4 inches)
= Total 60mm (2.4 inches)
We plan to implement this on the ground floor above an unheated cellar. We also have the option to insulate the cellar ceiling from below.
I would be very grateful for any assessment or alternative suggestions. Unfortunately, we have very little leeway left, especially regarding insulation.
Best regards and thanks in advance.
I have the following "problem" regarding the floor construction in an older building. After removing the old mastic asphalt, we found that the total buildup height including the covering was 50/55mm (2–2.2 inches). A new height of up to 70mm (2.75 inches) would still be just acceptable, especially regarding the door frame height and the transition to the stairwell. An underfloor heating system with 15mm (0.6 inches) pipes is planned to be installed.
I have done some research and discussed options. My preferred solution looks like this:
- Studded insulation panel (including 10mm (0.4 inches) insulation and embedding of the heating pipes): 30mm (1.2 inches)
- Thin-layer screed: with at least 20mm (0.8 inches) coverage over the studs
- Glued parquet flooring: 10mm (0.4 inches)
= Total 60mm (2.4 inches)
We plan to implement this on the ground floor above an unheated cellar. We also have the option to insulate the cellar ceiling from below.
I would be very grateful for any assessment or alternative suggestions. Unfortunately, we have very little leeway left, especially regarding insulation.
Best regards and thanks in advance.
Insulating the basement ceiling is easiest with EPS or PUR/PIR foam. These materials are available in various thicknesses and can be cut reasonably well. If the basement ceiling has many irregularities (pipes, etc.), installing a suspended ceiling with blown-in insulation could also be considered.
Alternatively, one idea I had was to spray everything with PU foam. It’s probably not the most cost-effective solution, but it offers great flexibility for tight spots and tricky areas.
Alternatively, one idea I had was to spray everything with PU foam. It’s probably not the most cost-effective solution, but it offers great flexibility for tight spots and tricky areas.
A
Axolotl-neu15 Jul 2022 09:23Chrizz72 schrieb:
If you have any tips on how and with what to do this best, I’m happy to hear them... 🙂As @Tolentino already mentioned, I would go with PUR (second choice). This way, you lose only a little bit of ceiling height.Tolentino schrieb:
Or what I was thinking: why not just spray everything with PU foam? It’s probably not the cheapest option, but it really gives you freedom around tight spots and such.That will get really expensive. Better to glue panels to the ceiling and cut out notches for thin pipes, and for thick pipes, just stuff the areas with mineral wool and glue a second layer of PUR (thickness depending on what’s possible) on top.But first, check all pipes carefully. You won’t have good access to them afterward.
For anyone facing the same "problem":
The combination of Roth dimpled membrane 14-17 mm EPS DEO 10 + UZIN SC 997 gypsum thin screed allows a build-up height of 50 mm (2 inches) plus the flooring.
My screed installer didn’t have this in mind either. I found out through my own research, and this is how we are doing it now.
Best regards
The combination of Roth dimpled membrane 14-17 mm EPS DEO 10 + UZIN SC 997 gypsum thin screed allows a build-up height of 50 mm (2 inches) plus the flooring.
My screed installer didn’t have this in mind either. I found out through my own research, and this is how we are doing it now.
Best regards
Hello Chrizz72,
Can you share any updates by now? I’m facing the same challenge. Previously, there was mastic asphalt, including the finished floor, giving me about 55-60mm (2.2-2.4 inches) of clearance. Soon, I’ll be getting a new front door as well as a full-height patio door, and I’m not sure how to proceed here. 🤨 The installation of both door and windows will be done by professionals.
Additionally, the concrete ceiling isn’t perfectly level either (built in 1961). I’m considering whether to level it with a leveling compound (~1cm (0.4 inches)) or to use rigid polyurethane foam (PUR) in different thicknesses.
Although I am handy and have good technical understanding, building a house isn’t something I do often.
Good luck
Can you share any updates by now? I’m facing the same challenge. Previously, there was mastic asphalt, including the finished floor, giving me about 55-60mm (2.2-2.4 inches) of clearance. Soon, I’ll be getting a new front door as well as a full-height patio door, and I’m not sure how to proceed here. 🤨 The installation of both door and windows will be done by professionals.
Additionally, the concrete ceiling isn’t perfectly level either (built in 1961). I’m considering whether to level it with a leveling compound (~1cm (0.4 inches)) or to use rigid polyurethane foam (PUR) in different thicknesses.
Although I am handy and have good technical understanding, building a house isn’t something I do often.
Good luck
Hello Schneiwa.
In our case, the concrete ceiling was also spot-filled/leveled in advance. I would recommend that to you as well. It doesn’t matter afterward whether you use a staple fastener or an insulation panel with knobs. Of course, doors should be installed before the screed. The advantage is that the screed dries quickly and is ready for covering. Overall, this is all quite expensive...
In our case, the concrete ceiling was also spot-filled/leveled in advance. I would recommend that to you as well. It doesn’t matter afterward whether you use a staple fastener or an insulation panel with knobs. Of course, doors should be installed before the screed. The advantage is that the screed dries quickly and is ready for covering. Overall, this is all quite expensive...
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