ᐅ Underfloor Heating – How to Insulate the Supply Lines to the Rooms?

Harakiri schrieb:

Basically, 5 cm (2 inches) is also possible if less than 2 cm (about 0.8 inches) is cut out so that the pipes are fully recessed – for example, the Roth Floorfix system; you can look online to see how it works. Alternatively, you can replace the existing panels with prefabricated panels (e.g., Uponor Vario Heat Protect) that come pre-formed including pipe channels and are also relatively easy to install.

Thanks. We found a solution. Three heating circuits will be rerouted in the attic. The remaining three circuits go through the bedroom (one of them – the hallway – is usually off anyway) and will then receive minimal insulation. This way, the pipe routes are fine, and heat output should be adequate. Otherwise, the three circuits can simply be shut off in the evening/night.

cryptoki schrieb:

Otherwise, the 3 loops will just be closed in the evening/night and that's it.

I know I’m being a bit annoying, but I have to jump in again.
If you close the loops in the evening, you’ll notice it about 8–12 hours later. That’s what I mean by “you can’t really control it that way.”

cryptoki schrieb:

Hi.

Contrary to the planning, all the supply lines to the respective rooms were now routed through the bedroom. I’m not very happy about this.

If this was not done according to the plan, you can definitely insist on that. On the other hand, finding a solution is not your responsibility.

nordanney schrieb:

I’m being annoying, but I have to jump in again.
When you turn off the heating circuits in the evening, you notice it about 8-12 hours later. That’s what I mean by "it can’t really be controlled."

8-12 hours is quite a long time. I can feel the underfloor heating here noticeably after just 1-2 hours. And when it’s no longer firing up, it’s also clearly noticeable in the bedroom, especially if the pipes are only minimally insulated.

Knöpfchen schrieb:

If this was not done according to the plan, you can definitely insist on that.
And besides, finding a solution would not be your responsibility.

@Knöpfchen We are working together with the local companies, not against each other. If the existing circuits in the room can remain as they are, then I consider the solution with the 3 heating circuits a good compromise instead of insisting on the maximum of 4. Many aspects have been carefully considered and improvements have been made to the plan in several areas. I will review the result later.

How do you live now? Especially: What is the supply temperature of your underfloor heating system at the moment?
This varies depending on the heating system and insulation standard, even if you currently comply with the building energy regulations / building codes.
Example: I have a condominium built to the KfW-70 standard, heated by district heating. The supply temperature of the underfloor heating there is 60°C (140°F). You can feel the underfloor heating quite quickly after turning up the thermostats, etc.
My single-family house has the same standard but uses a heat pump, and since I had the underfloor heating designed specifically for efficiency, the maximum supply temperature is 33°C (91°F), with an average in winter below 30°C (86°F).
If I adjust anything on the manifold or the thermostats (which you really shouldn’t touch), I won’t notice any change earlier than after 12 hours.
You can, for comfort reasons, heat with a higher supply temperature to notice changes faster, but then your initial question is like asking which tires to put on a car to save fuel after you’ve already chosen an 8-cylinder muscle car instead of an electric vehicle.
So, I wouldn’t add any extra insulation. As you already said, you can control this through hydraulic balancing in the bedroom. If in doubt, the radiator for the bedroom basically remains off.
In your position, I would rather consider insulation between rooms, because expecting to achieve average differences here and save heating costs as a result is unfortunately incorrect.
In the worst case, you simply heat the intentionally cooler rooms via the neighboring rooms, and the supposedly saved heat amount is then additionally needed in the other rooms. Unless you insulate in between.