ᐅ Underfloor Heating – How to Insulate the Supply Lines to the Rooms?
Created on: 24 Sep 2024 18:11
C
cryptoki
Hi.
Contrary to the original plan, all the supply lines to the respective rooms were routed through the bedroom. I’m not very happy about that.
What is the best way to insulate the supply lines without reducing the minimum screed coverage? The pipe diameter is 16mm (5/8 inch), and cement screed will be used. Corrugated conduit? But that doesn’t really insulate.
Thanks
Contrary to the original plan, all the supply lines to the respective rooms were routed through the bedroom. I’m not very happy about that.
What is the best way to insulate the supply lines without reducing the minimum screed coverage? The pipe diameter is 16mm (5/8 inch), and cement screed will be used. Corrugated conduit? But that doesn’t really insulate.
Thanks
There are hot-wire tools specifically designed to create channels or grooves in the impact sound insulation, allowing you to embed the connection pipes within the insulation. This lets you freely decide exactly where the pipes go in (ideally right after the manifold, and there are usually suitable system boards available with pre-made channels and branching) and where they emerge again. Depending on the build-up height, you then lay 15 / 20 mm (0.6 / 0.8 inches) impact sound insulation panels on top, ensuring the pipes are optimally insulated without affecting the overall screed construction.
If you have impact sound insulation and the pipes are stapled in place, it should theoretically be possible to retrofit such a solution. However, if the pipes are already connected to the heating manifold, the length may not be sufficient.
Alternatively, you can use corrugated tubing. It’s not ideal but provides a noticeable and measurable improvement. This is due to the air layer that forms between the underfloor heating pipe and the screed.
If you have impact sound insulation and the pipes are stapled in place, it should theoretically be possible to retrofit such a solution. However, if the pipes are already connected to the heating manifold, the length may not be sufficient.
Alternatively, you can use corrugated tubing. It’s not ideal but provides a noticeable and measurable improvement. This is due to the air layer that forms between the underfloor heating pipe and the screed.
@Harakiri Thank you. The impact sound insulation in the attic is only 5cm (2 inches), which is not very thick. Since electrical wiring also runs underneath, that option is not feasible there. The system from Rehau is being used. The standard procedure is to install a staple-down panel and then lay the heating circuits… doing it underneath the staple-down panel is apparently uncommon here.
On the ground floor, we have 14cm (5.5 inches) of impact sound insulation, so it would be possible. I shared my concerns yesterday. I hope a better solution will be implemented on the ground floor. Ideally, 3 circuits through the wall and the rest through the hallway…
On the ground floor, we have 14cm (5.5 inches) of impact sound insulation, so it would be possible. I shared my concerns yesterday. I hope a better solution will be implemented on the ground floor. Ideally, 3 circuits through the wall and the rest through the hallway…
@MBader40 the shape of the house with many projections or the flat-roofed “extension” with a room height of 3.21 m (10.5 ft). The appearance can be seen in another thread. Energy efficiency just meets the legal requirements. With this construction method, even a KfW40 standard would be quite an effort. The heating system is not standard. The planned tiled stove… etc.
The most efficient are definitely the standard cube-shaped houses…
The most efficient are definitely the standard cube-shaped houses…
cryptoki schrieb:
@Harakiri Thank you. In the attic, the impact sound insulation with 5cm (2 inches) thickness is not very high. Since electrical wiring runs underneath, that option is not possible there. The system from Rehau is being used. The standard procedure is to install a staple board and then lay the heating circuits… doing it underneath the staple board is apparently uncommon here. Basically, it is also possible with 5cm (2 inches), by cutting out less than 2cm (1 inch) so that the pipes are fully recessed—for example, the Roth Floorfix system; you can find online how it works. Alternatively, you can replace the existing boards with prefabricated panels (e.g., Uponor Vario Heat Protect), which come ready-made including pipe channels and are also relatively easy to install.
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