Hello,
we are about to purchase a single-family house and plan to renovate quite a bit. In addition to a new heating system, the radiators will be replaced with underfloor heating. However, I’ve been wondering how to best carry this out. The house has a living area of 170m² (1830 sq ft), and besides the partially installed tiles, the screed layer would also need to be removed. The latter would involve a huge amount of work and significantly increase the costs, so I am considering whether it’s possible to install the underfloor heating by milling channels directly into the existing screed without removing it. Are there any other options? Since the doors will also be replaced, a slight increase in floor height is not a major concern.
What else should I keep in mind? How would the heating efficiency behave if the installation is done differently than usual? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
we are about to purchase a single-family house and plan to renovate quite a bit. In addition to a new heating system, the radiators will be replaced with underfloor heating. However, I’ve been wondering how to best carry this out. The house has a living area of 170m² (1830 sq ft), and besides the partially installed tiles, the screed layer would also need to be removed. The latter would involve a huge amount of work and significantly increase the costs, so I am considering whether it’s possible to install the underfloor heating by milling channels directly into the existing screed without removing it. Are there any other options? Since the doors will also be replaced, a slight increase in floor height is not a major concern.
What else should I keep in mind? How would the heating efficiency behave if the installation is done differently than usual? Any advice would be greatly appreciated!
The new screed cost 15 euros per square meter and has the advantage that it can be walked on and covered immediately, without any moisture development. Also, only 2 cm (1 inch) of screed were sufficient, unlike liquid screed which requires 4-5 cm (1.5-2 inches). Pouring new screed in an occupied older building can be problematic (weight, build-up height, and moisture penetrating everywhere, for example into drywall). That was not an option. Additionally, the basement had 8 cm (3 inches) of PUR insulation, and on the upper floor, the insulation was already adequate due to the system panels of the underfloor heating (2.5 cm (1 inch) EPS).
If there is a basement, I would possibly insulate the basement ceiling from below, and then the insulation thickness of the system panels would be sufficient. In our case, this was not possible because the basement is fully heated and was not insulated from below. Therefore, insulation had to be installed from above.
If there is a basement, I would possibly insulate the basement ceiling from below, and then the insulation thickness of the system panels would be sufficient. In our case, this was not possible because the basement is fully heated and was not insulated from below. Therefore, insulation had to be installed from above.
B
Bauabenteurer24 Jul 2014 13:23Doc.Schnaggls schrieb:
if you combine panel radiators with underfloor heating, you need to set up two separate heating circuits or buy new radiators for the basement.That's right! Although it may sound strange, it doesn't make much of a difference cost-wise if you install underfloor heating in individual rooms in the basement as well.
D
Doc.Schnaggls25 Jul 2014 08:06Hello,
As mentioned above, underfloor heating operates with a significantly lower supply temperature (about 30 - 35°C (86 - 95°F)) compared to a radiator heating system (about 50 - 55°C (122 - 131°F), in rare cases even up to 75°C (167°F)).
If you run your heating at 30 - 35°C (86 - 95°F) supply temperature for the underfloor heating, the "old" radiators will obviously only become lukewarm.
To achieve the same heat output into the room, you therefore need radiators with a larger surface area to reach the same heating capacity.
Regards,
Dirk
As mentioned above, underfloor heating operates with a significantly lower supply temperature (about 30 - 35°C (86 - 95°F)) compared to a radiator heating system (about 50 - 55°C (122 - 131°F), in rare cases even up to 75°C (167°F)).
If you run your heating at 30 - 35°C (86 - 95°F) supply temperature for the underfloor heating, the "old" radiators will obviously only become lukewarm.
To achieve the same heat output into the room, you therefore need radiators with a larger surface area to reach the same heating capacity.
Regards,
Dirk
Today we had the first scheduled appointment, and the specialist advised against milling. After we take over the house, we will meet again to carefully inspect and drill to determine the thickness of the screed and discuss the next steps.
By the way, he recommended the Viessmann Vitodens 300 or 333. I had already come across this system before, but I would like your advice regarding the hot water storage tank. We are a family of four (2 children - 2 years and 6 months). The heating installer mentioned a capacity between 120 liters and 160 liters (32 to 42 gallons). Would this range be suitable for us? What size would you recommend?
By the way, he recommended the Viessmann Vitodens 300 or 333. I had already come across this system before, but I would like your advice regarding the hot water storage tank. We are a family of four (2 children - 2 years and 6 months). The heating installer mentioned a capacity between 120 liters and 160 liters (32 to 42 gallons). Would this range be suitable for us? What size would you recommend?
Similar topics